xt70zp3vt96q https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt70zp3vt96q/data/mets.xml Durbin, John P. (John Price), 1800-1876. 1845  books b92-201-30752238v2 English Harper, : New York : Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Middle East Description and travel.Anderson, Alexander, 1775-1870. Observations in the East  : chiefly in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor (vol. 2)/ by John P. Durbin. text Observations in the East  : chiefly in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor (vol. 2)/ by John P. Durbin. 1845 2002 true xt70zp3vt96q section xt70zp3vt96q 



















  II  \ " y  
-      NY1 V

 





  OBSERVATIONS IN THE EAST,




                CHIEFLY IN




EGYPT, PALESTINE, SYRIA, AND ASIA MINOR.




                  my



   J O R N P. D U R B I N, D.D.,
      LATZ PRESIDENT OF DICKIXSON COLLEGE.

              AUTHOR OF
"OBSERVATIONS IN EUROPE," c.





         IN TWO VOLUMES.

             V 0 L. II.






         NE W-Y OR K:

HARPER  BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
          82 CLIFF STREET.
              1 84 5.

 



































Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1815, by
               HARPER  BROTHERS,
In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York


 














                   CONTENTS.



                      CHAPTER L.

    EXCURSION TO THE JORDAN AND TIE DEAD SEA.
Preparations.-Struggle for a Charger.-Road to Jericho.-Wilderness of Ju-
dea.-Scene of the Parable of the Good Samaritan.-A Ruined Khan.-
The Plain of Jericho.-View of the Mountains of Moab.-City of Jericho.
-ConflictingOpinionsas to its Site.-Probably three distinct Sites.-Plains
of Moab.-Pisgah.-Its Site not known.-Fountain of Elisha.-Place of
  Christ's Baptism.-The Jordan.-The Dead Sea.-Bathing.-SpecificGrav.
  ity of the Water.-Its effects on the Skin.-Return to Jerusalem Page 1

                      CHAPTER IT.
                 JERUSALEM TO NABLOUS.
Preparations for Departure.-Pratique.-Conversation with the Pacha.-De-
parture.-View of Jerusalem from the North.-Bireh, the Beeroth of Scrip-
ture.-Flocks and Herds.-Beitin, the Bethel of Scripture.-Remains of a
Church.-Yabroud.-A Feud.-A running Fight.-Village of Lubban.-
Shiloh.-Mount Hermon.-Fertile Country.-Mountains of Samaria.-
Gerizim.-Ebal.-Position of Nablous, the Shechem of the Old Testament.
-Jacob's Well.-Jacob's Tomb.-Approach to the City.-Tombs in the
Mountain-side                                              9

                     CHAPTER III.
                 NABLOUS TO NAZARETH.
Entrance into Nablous.-The Convent.-Service of the Greek Church.-
School.-Antiquity of the Town.-Population.-Sebaste.-The Mountain
of Samaria.-Terraces and Colonnades.-Ruined Church.-Reputed Tomb
of John the Baptist.-View from the top of the Mountain.-Plan of the
City.-Plain of Esdraelon.-Jenin.-Jezreel.-Tbe Battle-field of Na.
tions.-Mount Tabor.-Nain.-Approach to Nazareth.-Tbe Convent.-
The Virgin's Fountain.-Mount of Transfiguration.-View.-Eveniing Meal
of the Arabs.-Church of the Annunciation.-Sacred Places.-Spurious
Traditions.-The Superior of the Convent.-School.-Chapel where Christ
Taught.-Population ef the Town .20

 




iv



CONTENTS.



                     CHAPTER IV.

                  NAZARETH TO BEYROUT.
The Plain of Zebulon. -Acre.-Ruins o the Magazine.-Effects of a Bom-
  bardment.-Mount Carmel.-River Kishon.-Disappointment.-Convent
  of Elijah.-View from Carmel.-Rett'rn to Acre.-Promontorium Album.
  -Plain of Phcenicia.-Three Remarkable Fountains.-Alexander's Mole.
  --Tyre.-Fulfilment of Prophecy.-Road to Sidon.-Sarepta.-Sidon.-
  Road to Beyrout.-Population without the Walls.-Enter Beyrout
                                                      Page 38

                      CHAPTER V.

                  BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS.
Letters from Home.-American Missionaries.-American Consul.-Tmpor-
  tance of Beyrout.-Commerce.-Appearance of the City.-Environs.-
  Groves and Orchards.-The Pacha.-Departure for Damascus.-Villages
  and Terraces on the Mountain Side.-Mount Lebanon.-Dangers of Travel.
  -Uncertain Weather.-Beautiful View.-Hospitality.-Too marly Lodg-
  era.-First View of Damascus.-Scripture Recollections.-Natman the
  Syrian.-Saul of Tarsus.-Enter Damascus .49

                     CHAPTER VI.

                         DAMASCUS.
English Officers.-Not Dinner enough.-Ramble through the City.-Dilap-
idated Houses and Streets.-Dwellings of the higher Classes.-Specinen
  of a splendid Residence.-The Bazars.-Merchants.-Divisions of the Ba-
  zar for different Trades.-European Goods principally exposed.-Workers
  in lron.-Silversmiths.-Khan of Asaad Pacha.-A Procession.-Moslem
  Worship.-Mosques.--Schools.-Dervishes.-Caf6s.-Cathedral of Saint
  John.-" Street which is called Straight."-House of Ananias .  . 58

                    CHAPTER VII.

                        DAMASCUS.
The Plain of Damascus.-Tradition of Paul's Escape by the Window.-
Scene of Saul's Conversion.-Security of Christian Travellers in Damas-
cus.-Safety of all Europeans.- Sanctity of Damascus as a Moslem City.
-Devotion.-Mr. Wood, the English Consul.-Table of Statistics . 67

                    CHAPTER VIII.

                  DAMASCUS TO BALBEC.
Road up the Barady.-Village of Zabdani.-First Sight of Balbec.-The
Greek Bishop.-Ruins.-The Terrace.-Courts.-Cyclopean Masonry.-
Pantheon.-Temple of the Sun.-Traces of Christian Antiquity.-Of

 







  Egyptian Antiquity.-Of Roman and Arabian Dominion.-Return to Bey-
  rout .Page 72

                     CHAPTER IX.

         MOUNT LEBANON AND ITS INHABITANTS.
Range of Lebanon.-Of Ante-Lebanon.-Inaccessible Valleys.-General
  Character of the Inhabitants-Dress.-The Tantour.-Independence of
  the Mountaineers.-Tenure of their Lands.-Sanctity of Lebanon.-Mon-
  asteries.-The Nusairiyeh.-Their Dogmas and Rites.-The Assassins.-
  The Metuwilies.-Their Doctrines.-Christian Population.-The Maron-
  ites.-Their Fidelity to Rome.-The Patriarch.-Their Usages .  . 79

                      CHAPTER X.
             MOUNT LEBANON.-TIIE DRUSES.
The Druses.-Their Number.-Secrecy of their Rites, c.-Modern Re-
searches.-Sketch of Derazy, founder of the Druses.-Hamza.-Funda-
mental Doctrines of the Druses.-Hakim.-The Hierarchy of Ministers.-
Seven Commandments.-Secret Mysteries.-The Akals.-The Djakels.-
Corruption of Hamza's Doctrines.-Hatred of Moslems and Christians.-
Catechism of the Druses.-Late Applications for Christian Instruction.-
American Missionaries. - Difficulties.- Maronite Persecutions. - Move-
ments of the English Government.-Suddenly Abandoned.-New Connex-
ion of the Druses and Moslems.-Relations of the Porte to Christianity
in the East.-Policy of England.-The Protestant Diocese of Jerusalem.
-Prospects for the Future.-Movements of American Missionaries at
Hasbeiya .86

                     CHAPTER XI.
                   BEYROUT TO SMYRNA.
Arrival of a Stranger.-Departure from Beyrout.-The Steamer.-Hadjis.-
Turks in the Rain.-Cyprus.-Saul's Preaching before Sergius Paulus.-
Changes.-Scanty Population.-Primitive Mode of Exchange.-Rhodes.-
The Harbour.-Associations.-The Knights of St. John.-Fortifications.
-Desolation of Rhodes.-The Sporades.-Patmos.-Scene of the Revela-
tion.-Associations.-Harbour of Smyrna .101

                     CHAPTER XII.
              SMYRNA.-THE MODERN CITY.
The Lazaretto.-Preparations for Comfort.-Amusements of Quarantine.-
The Gulf of Smyrna.-Appearance of the City.-Population.-Quarters
of Franks, Greeks, Turks, Jews, and Armenians.-Houses of Rich Arme-
nians.-Rural Coffee-shops.-English Chapel.-Dutch Chapel.-Ceremo-
nies at the Greek Church .108
                              1



v



CONTlENXTS.

 







                     CHAPTER XIII.

     ANCIENT SMYRNA.-TfHE APOCALYPTIC CHURCH.
The Epistle to the Church at Smyrna.-Polycarp.-Scene of his Martyrdom.
  -Catholic Letter narrating the Martyrdom.-The Castle.-Remains oi
  the Ancient City.-No Remains of the Apocalyptic Church.-Site of the
  Ancient City.-Change of Site.-View from the Acropolis.-Legend as to
  the Birthplace of Homer.-Ships in the Harbour.-Mr. Temple.-Mr. Van
  Lennep .Page 113

                    CHAPTER XIV.

                    SMYRNA TO EPHESUS.
Parting with Companions--Determine to visit the Sites of the Apocalyptic
  Churches.-New Fellow-travellers.-Mr. Park.-Mr. Gardiner.-Depar-
  ture.-Valleys of Asia Minor.-Desolation.-Asia Minor a vast Necropo-
  lis.-Hamlet of Triander.-Rude Lodgings.-A Caravan.-Costumes.-
  The Cayster.-Plain of Ephesus--Mount Gallesus.-Castle of Aiasaluk.
  -Ruinous Mosque.-Turkish village of Aiasaluk.-Not on the site of Eph-
  esus   ..                                               1Q


                    CHAPTER XV.

                          EPHES US.
Mount Prion.-Site of the Ancient City.-Its Limits-Quarries.-Early
Christian Sepulchres.-Tombs of Mary, John. and Timothy.-Ruins of
the Circus.-The Odeon.-The Theatre.-Scene of the Tumult excited
by Paul's Preaching.-The Stadium.-Avenue.-No remains of the Tem-
ple of Diana.-Ancient Splendour of Ephesus.-Total Ruin of the City.-
Fulfilment of Prophecy .125

                    CHAPTER XVI.
               EPHESUS TO PHILADELPHIA.
The River Cayster.-Roads.--Ancient Roman Roads and Bridges.-A Vil-
lage of Storks.-Getting a Lodging.-Ruins of Ancient Fountains.-Impen-
etrable Hedges.-Improvemnent in Cultivation.-Turkomans.-Mode of
making Butter.-Mode of raising the Vine.-Tyria.-A Meal in Turkish
Fashion.-A Ragged Reginent-Odemes .132

                   CHAPTER XVII.

                PHILADELPHIA.-LAODICEA.
from Odemee to Philadelphia.-Fortifications.-A Paltry Palace.-Associa-
tions.-Promises to the Church of Philadelphia.-Their Fulfilment.-Cor-
Nuptions of Worship.-Reverence of the Turks for Philadelphia.-Failure



Hi



CONrEN'TS.

 





                          CONTENTS.                        Vii

   to visit Laodicea.-Brief Account from Chandler.-History of the Church
   in Laodicea.-Its present Desolation .Page 138

                    CHAPTER XVIII.

                            SARDIS.
 1hergee.-Its romantic Situation.-Valley of Soupetran.-Approach to the
   Plain of Sardis.-The City.-Disappointment.-Acropolis.-The Amphi-
   theatre.-Ruins of the Church of St. John.-Of the Church of the Virgin.
   -Rude Lodgings.-Palace of Crcesus.-Disappearance of Building Mate-
   rials.-Pactolus.-Columns of the Templo of Cybele.-Sardian Cemetery.
   -Mounds.-Desolation of Sardis                           144

                     CHAPTER XIX.
                          TIIYATIRA.
 Dismissal of Greek Servant.-Leave Sardis.-The Hermus.-Lose out
 Way.-The Gygean Lake.-A Praying Moslem.-Marmora.-The Khan
 -Greek Dance.-Ruins.-Tumuli.-Plain of Thyatira.-Modern Town
 of Aksa.-Its Thriving Appearance.-Trade.-Causes of its Piosperity.-
 Difficulty of Identifying Sacred Piaces.-MIosques.-Population.-Wor
 ship in Greek and Armenian Churches .151

                     CHAPTER XX.

                         PERGAM US.
Two Roads from Thyatira to Pergamus. - The Mountain-route preferred.-
  Yzdiekooe.-Pleasant Lodgings.-Comforts indeed.-Flourishing Appear-
  ance of the Town.-A. strange Introduction.-Cordial Welcome.-A Greek
  Family.-Ornaments of Coin.-Kenik.-An Embarrassment.-Reach Per-
  gamus on Foot.-Situation of Pergamus.-Memorials of Grecian Domin-
  ion.-Of Roman Sway.-Theatre.-Temple of 3Esculapius.-lnmense
  A mphitheatre.-Christian Antiquities.-Present Condition of Christianity.
  -Population.-Mosque.-Church of St. John.-Massive Remains.- Mos-
  lem Tradition.-Modern Church.-Modern Town of Bergama.-Trade.-
  Taxes.-Depreciation of the Currency  .157

                    CHAPTER XXI.

           PERGAMUS TO THE PLAIN       OF TROY.
Disappointment. -Avriomasti.- Adramvt. -A Manceuvre. - A Mountain
Journey.-Mount Gargarus.-An Accident.-Plain of Berimitch.-Mount
Ida.-The Scamander.-Enna,.-Lower Chain of Ida.-Plain of Troy.-
Bounarbachi.-Site of Ancient Troy.-The Tomb of Hector.-View of the
Plain     .   .    .       .   .   .   .   .   .   .   .169

 






                     CHAPTER XXII.
                     THE PLAIN OF TROY.
 View of the Plain of Troy from the Tomb of Hector.-Its Dimensions.-
   Topography.-Site of the Camp of the Greeks.-Question in regard to
   it.-Arguments--Early Recollections.Contrasts.-Site of the City.-
   The Simois.-The Scamander-Question as to the Identity of these Riv-
   ers.-As to the Site of Troy                   .   . Page 177

                    CHAPTER XXIII.
                TROAS TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
 Approach to Dardanelles.-A Gala.-Quarantine.-Sudden Arrest and Re-
 lease.-Sieep Broken.-Sanitary Precautions.-Embarcation.-Forts of
 the Dardanelles.-Sestos and Abydos.-Origin of the Janizaries.-Histor-
 ical Associations.-Approach to Constantinople.-First View of the City.
   -Land at Pera.2

                    CHAPTER XXIV.
                      CONSTANTINOPLE.
 Sunday in Pera.-The Bishop of Gibraltar.-The Bishop of Jerusalem.-The
 ", Sweet Waters of Europe."--Sunday among the Greeks and Armenians.
 -Dresses of the Women.-The " Sweet Waters of Asia."-fnfluence of
 Frank Population on Manners.-Theatre at Pera.-The City.-Bazars.-
 Turkish Ladies Shopping.-The Slave Bazar.-Circassian Slaves.-Con-
 dition of Slaves among Mohammedans.    .                  1

                    CHAPTER XXV.

                      CONSTANTINOPLE.
Supply of Water in the East.-Fountains and Aqueducts.-Artificial Lake4s.
  -Imperial Conduit at Constantinople.-Cistern of the Thousand and One
  Pillars.-Present Fountains.-Fountains at Tombs.-The Hippodrome.-
  Its Monuments.-The Mosque of Achmet.-Mr. Brown.-His Attentions.
  -Firman.-Visit to the Mosques.-Mosque of Achmet.-Delicate Qucs-
  tion for a Mufti.-A Sultan's Device-General Structure of the Mosques.
  -Domes and Cupolas.-Sacred Pigeons.-Minarets.--Muezzins.-Interior
  of the Mosque.-Impressions.-Disenchantment.-Mausoleums    . 195

                   CHAPTER XXVI.

                     CONSTANTINOPLE,
Uniformity of the Mosques.-Saint Sophia.-Its Erection ani Consecration
by Justinian.-Interior of the Mosque.-Associations with Christian His
tory.-The Dome.-Moslem Worship in the Mosques-Postures of Prayer.
-Ceremonies.-Articles of Mfoslpen Faith ..



Veli



CONTENTS.

 





CONTENTS.



ix



                   CHAPTER XXVII.
                     CONSTANTINOPLE.
The Sublime Porte.-The Seraglio.-The Imperial Gardens.-Church of St.
  Irene.-Trophies.-Circuit of the City.-Cemeteries without the Walls.-
  Defences--Siege of 1453.-The Seven Towers.-The Sea-wall.-View
  of the City from the Seraskier's Tower.-Streets of Constantinople-Hou-
  ses.-The Burnt Colhmn.-The Virgin's Stone.-Destruction of the Jani-
  zaries.                                             Page 219

                  CHAPTER XXVlII.
                     CONSTANTINOPLE.
Dervishes, the _.Monks of Moslemism.-Sources of their Influence.-Mosque
  of the Howling Dervishes. - Their Frantic Performances. - Pretence of
  Healing.-Dancing Dervishes.-Polite Reception-A Little Worshipper.
  -- The Mosque.- Ceremonies.- Gyrations.- Visit to Scutari.- Military
  Salutations.-The Sultan's Approach.-The Imperial Caique.-Personal
  Appearance of the Sultan.-His Attendants .228

                   CHAPTER XXIX.
                     CONSTANTINOPLE.
Funeral of a Greek Priest.-Turkish Funerals.-Arinenian and Catholic Bu.
rials.-Vast Cemeteries.-Used as Pleasure-grounds.-Population of Con-
stantinople.--Difficulty of estimating it.-Suburbs.-Frank Population.-
Separate Quarters.-Greek Quarters.-Fanar.-Origin of the Name.-
Division of Parties among the Greeks.-Armnenian Quarters.-Character
of their Dwellings.-Their Employments.-Their Affirity for the Turks.
-Jews' Quarters--Balata.-Degradation of the Jews.-Haskoi  . 237

                   CHAPTER XXX.

             CONSTANTINOPLE.-THE EUXINE.
Scutari.-Tophanna.-Galata, the Commercial Quarter.-Pera.-Palaces of
the Foreign Ambassadors.-Peculiar Government of the Franks in Pera.-
Low Character of the Franks.-Occasional Commingling of the Nations.-
The Turkish Arabah.-Night in Constantinople.-Excursion to the Eux-
ine.-Shores of the Bosphorus.-Castles of Asia and Europe.-Bay of
Stein.-Therapia.-Gulf of Buyukdere.-Forts and Batteries.-The Sym-
plegades.-The Euxine .244

                   CHAPTER XXXI.

                THE TURKISH EMPIRE.
Return of Civilization from West to East.-The Empire of Mohammedanism.
-Its rapid and extensive Diffusion.-Fall of Constantinople.-The Turks

 






x



CONTENTS.



  at Vienna.-Defeat.-Rise of Russian Power.-Virtual Extinction of the
  Ottoman Empire.-Its present Prospects.-Internal Weakness of Turkey.
  -Decay of Trade.-Decrease of Population-F rankland's Account-El-
  liott's-Sandys', two hundred years ago .Page 252

                    CHAPTER XXXII.
                 THE TURKISH EMPIRE.
Necessity of Reform perceived by the Turks.-Difficulty of introducing Chris-
  tian Civilization.-Attempts of the present Sultan.-The Hatti Sheriff of
  1839.- Difficulty of carrying out its Principles.- Proclamation for the
  Establishment of Schools.-Its Object.-Edict for an Imperial Parliamnent-
  -External Relations of Turkey.-Views of the Five Great Powers.-
  Probable Dissolution of the Empire.-Hopes .263

                   CHAPTER XXXHIJ.
                C11RISTIANITY IN TIHE EAST.
Persecutions of Christians after the Mohammedan Conquest.-Preserva.
tion of Christians as Distinct People.-Increase of Christian Population
and Influence in the East.-Field for the work of the Western Churches.
-Proportion of Christian Population in the East.-Distribution of this Pop-
ulation.-Influence of Christian Europe in the East.-Recent Exhibition
of it in Constantinople.-German Society for the Protection of Christianity
in the East .274

                   CHAPTER XXXIV.

                CHRISTIANITY IN TIlE EAST.
Corruptions of the Oriental Churches.-Points of their Agreement with
  Rome.-Points of Difference.-Catechism.-Superstitions of the Greek
  Church.-Powers of the Patriarchs of the Oriental Churches--Of the
  Clergy.-Missions to the Eastern Churches.-I. The ROMAN CATHOI.aC
  Missions.-Their Object, not Reformation, but simply Obedience to Rome.
  -Means of Success.-Results.-2. PROTESTANT E PISCOPAL Missions.-
  At present rather Political than Evangelical.-Letter of the Archbishop of
  Canterbury.-Its Spirit and Objects.-Probable Results.-Mr. Southgate's
  Views .281

                   CHAPTER XXXV.

                CHRISTIANITY IN THE EAST.
Missions of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions.-
Their Object spiritual, not temporal. -Means employed: 1. The Press;
diffusion of Books, Tracts, c., through the East. 2. Schools. 3. Oral
Instruction.-Results.-Comparison of the Episcopal and non-Episcopal
Missions                                                    293


 









   OBSERVATIONS IN TIHE EAST.


                    CHAPTER I.
    EXCURSION TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA.
Preparations.-Struggle for a Charger.-Road to Jericho-Wilderness of Ju-
  dea.-Scene of the Parable of the Good Samaritan.-A Ruined Khan.-
  The Plain of Jericho.-View of the Mountains of Mloab.-City of Jericho.
  -Conflicting Opinions as to its Site.-Probably three distinct Sites.-Plains
  of MIoab.-Pisgah.-Its Site not known.-Fountain of Elisha.-Place of
  Christ's Baptism.-The Jordan.-The Dead Sea.-Bathing.-Specific Grav
  itv of the Water.-Its effects on the Skin.-Return to Jerusalem.
  THE morning of the eighth of March was fixed upon
for an excursion to the Jordan and the Dead Sea. At
the appointed hour, quite a large cavalcade appeared at
the door of the Latin Convent. There were three mules
to carry our tents and provisions, five horses for our-
selves and servant, and two for the sheikhs who were
to accompany us; and besides these, there were two
guards on horseback, four on foot, and three muleteers.
These arrangements are necessary, as the Arabs of the
Ghor, or Valley of the Jordan, and of the mountains
east of the Jordan, are far from trustworthy, and have
occasionally done violence to travellers.
  Just as I came to the door there was quite a strug-
gle among our company for the possession of a milk-
white horse, by far the finest of the troop. The Arab
master, who mingled bad Italian with his native tongue,
exclaimed Ha! ha! (Ao, no;) altera Signore multo
grando. Assuming very complacently that his words
  VOL. 11.-A

 



2     A RUINED IIAN.-IOUNTAINS OF MTOAB.



referred to myself, I mounted the white charger, and
led off through St. Stephen's Gate upon the Bethany
road. At a short distance beyond the village we noticed
the old paved road to Jericho, and halted for a short
time at a fountain covered with a lofty arch of rough
masonry. After pursuing our way for an hour or two
down the rugged ravine which forms the road, we turn-
cd to the left, and ascended into the desolate and black-
ened mountains of the" 1Wilderness of Judea," the seene
of John the Baptist's ministration, and of our Lord's
temptation. Of all places in the world, it is naturally
fittest for the centre and kingdom of Satan the destroy-
er; for, as Maundrell says, " it is a most miserable, dry,
barren place, consisting of high, rocky mountains, so torn
and disordered as if the earth had suffered some great
convulsion, in which its very bowels had been turned
outward." This fearful wilderness, not ten miles cast
of Jerusalem, has always been the abode of violence
and misery. The very road on which we passed was
the scene of our Lord's parable of the Good Samar-
itan.
  About half way between Jerusalem and Jericho we,
passed the crumbling walls of a large khan, with im-
rnense cisterns.  Following the rugged road, often
through avenues cut in the rock, we came, by about
two o'clock, to the eastern edge of the wilderness which
overlooks the plain of Jericho, clad in deep green ver-
dure, caused by the fertilizing streams of the Fountain of
Elisha. Beyond it, deep in the valley, and as yet invis-
ible, flowed the Jordan, while the view beyond was
closed by the dark masses of the mountains of Moab,
inviting the eye of the pilgrim to select Nebo and Pis-
gah. I paused on the brow of the mountain, near the
well-preserved remains of a Rom,-in aqueduct, wbkich

 



THE PLAIN OF JERICHO.



once supplied water to the city of Jericho, and gazed
upon this wide and gloomy panorama encircling the rich
green plain which lay spread out far away below me.
Immediately around was the dreary wilderness already
(lescribed; to the right, in their deep, sunken bed, lay the
still waters of the Dead Sea; far to the left, the mount-
ains of the wilderness projected into the Jordan and
closed the plain to the north. In that direction, just
above the Fountain of Elisharose above the rest the
dark, thunder-scathed head of Mount Quarantina,
which tradition assigns as the " exceeding high mount-
ain" from which Satan showed our Lord "all the king-
doms of this world," and promised them to him, saying,
"If thou wilt fall down and worship me." Its summit
seems inaccessible; yet a little chapel is perched upon
it, and its side next the Jordan is cut into caverns and
chamnbers, in which we saw at night the flitting taper
of the hermit, or of the pilgrim doing penance during
Lont. The Plain of Jericho, perhaps twenty miles long
from north to south, and eight wide from the river to
the base of the mountains, lay before me, barren and
burnt as it approached the sea to the south, but increas-
ing in fertility and verdure towards the north, along the
course of the waters of the Fountain of Elisha, which
we afterward found enveloped in an almost impenetrable
thicket at the foot of the secondary hills. The city of
Jericho once lay somewhere before us; and some trav-
ellers place it at the village Riha or Eriha, which is the
corrupted Arabic form of Jericho, two miles south of
the fountain; others place it at the fountain; and others
still, southwest of the fountain, where the great road
from Jerusalem, and the ancient aqueduct from the
mountain, descend into the plain. Each one insists on
the few remains which are found on each site; but, upon



3

 



CITY OF JERICHO.-PLAINS OF MOAB.



actual examination, I was satisfied that nothing could be
positively determined on the subject. The remains are
very few and insignificant at the village ; more, but not
remarkable, at the fountain; and still more abundant,
but not at all striking, at the foot of the mountains.
These sites are all within two miles of each other, and
not separated by hill or stream; and upon passing over
them and looking at the ground, recollecting, at the same
time, the customs of early society, I came to the con-
clusion that the city which the Israelites encompassed
under Joshua, and which is known in the Old Testament,
was at the fountain; for it is the only water in the plain,
and ancient cities were always built on a mountain for
safety, or by a fountain for convenience. The city of
the Romans was at the foot of the mountain, and wa-
tered by aqueducts brought down from the heights, re-
mains of which are still visible in various places, and
brought also along the base of the mountains from the
Fountain of Drik in the hills to the north-northwest: the
village is probably the remains of the third or more mod-
ern city, built around the tower erected for the protec-
tion of the fine fields produced by irrigation from the
Fountain of Elisha, the waters of which were conduct-
ed over the plain as in Egypt. The small number of
fine remains of so magnificent a city is accounted for
by the reconstruction of the city successively out of the
same materials, thus mutilating, reducing, and transport-
ing them.
  Across the plains, under the base of the Mountains
of Moab, lay the narrow " Plains of Moab," washed
on the west by the Jordan. There Israel had encamp-
ed 3000 years ago, and on some point in the dark,
long mountain range behind them Moses had stood, and
after gazing on the Promised Land, had died. How



4

 



FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA.



naturally one wishes to fix on the spot; but no isolated
mountain or lofty summit stands forth to challenge the
faith which wavers, and then is overwhelmed with un-
certainty. Yet there is one point in the range, nearly
opposite Mount Quarantina, sensibly higher than any
other, and here I made up my mind that Moses stood
to " view the landscape o'er."
  Satisfied with this rapid survey of the scene before
us, we descended the mountain, bore northeast across
the plains, and in forty minutes pitched our tents on the
edge of -the flourishing forest of small trees and shrubs,
close by the clear and rapid stream of Ain es-Sultan, or
Fountain of Elisha, which boiled up from the limestone
rocks two hundred yards above us. It is one of the
most copious springs I had ever seen, supplying volumes
of sweet water, which runs off through the plain at first
in a stream twenty feet wide, and from eighteen inches
to two feet deep, and afterward divides into many little
rivulets, which irrigate and fertilize only a small portion
of the vast plain. I sat down on a rock amid the boil-
ing volumes in which countless little fish were sporting,
and seemed to myself to look upon one of the exuberant
natural springs in the limestone formations of my own
country; and nothing but the authority of Scripture
could have made me believe that these waters were
ever "; naught, and the ground barren." I took out my
Bible. and having read the account of their healing by
Elisha at the request of the people of the city, cast my
eyes around on the site of the town whose walls fell at
the shout of Israel, and where was afterward a school
of the prophets, which our Lord repeatedly honoured
with his presence. The keen lances of the moschetoes
recalled the common thoughts of life, and cutting a stick
from the luxuriant tree whose branches dipped into the
                        A 2



5

 



6     PLACE OF CHRIST S BAPTLSM.-THE JORDAN.



glassy waters, I returned to the tent, took my evening
repast, and lay down to sleep.
   Next morning, as the sun rose over the mountains of
Moab, we mounted our horses, and crossing through
the well-wooded plain to the village, and beyond it
through low, broken sandhills, alighted in the thickets
on the banks of the Jordan, where the Greek Church
says that our Lord was baptized. The Latins contend
that the place of the baptism was two or three miles
farther up. After washing in the rapid stream, which
we judged to be about thirty or thirty-five yards wide,
we filled our bottles with water, with which to baptize
some little fellows in America, and remounted for the
Dead Sea, which was distant an hour south.
  Three German pilgrims had accompanied us from
Jerusalem on foot, and had mistaken the Fountain of
Elisha, where we had tented, for the Jordan, and had
bathed in it; but, upon finding their mistake, they eager-
ly plunged into the river, and seemed to bathe with
faith. They were evidently edified, though they were
hungry; and, that their pilgrimage might be as happy as
possible, we gave them something to eat. We follow-
ed down the Jordan, sometimes in the thickets from
whence its " swellings" used to drive up the " lion," and
sometimes amid the sandhills, whither the beast retreat-
ed until the recession of the waters would permit him
to return again to his lair. I observed that the river
was scarcely half full, vet the water was somewhat tur-
bid; the banks on both sides were not easily access-
ible, owing to the thickets, which grew into the water;
they were generally steep, and in some places fallen in
in great masses. The river winds very much in its
course to the sea.
  At about eleven o'clock we came to the steep, sandy,

 



T lE DEAD SEA.-BATHING.



or, rather, gravelly beach, half an hour west of the Jor-
dan, and found the sea not fiel, as much driftwood lay
ten or fifteen feet up on the beach, which had been
brought down by the river, and cast up by the south
winds. It would seem that the level of the sea depends
upon the supply of water from the Jordan and other
streams.
  We were undressed in a few minutes, as were also the
pilgrims and our Arab servant. They seemed not to be
aware of the penetrating bitterness of the water, and so
plunged in over head and ears; but they paid for it. I
waded in carefully, to test the oft-repeated statements of
the great specific gravity of this fluid, and repeated the
experiment several tines; the uniform result was, that
when the water rose above iny armpits, but not over
my shoulders, my body was balanced, and I could not
touch the bottom, but my feet tended strongly to rise,
and my head to descend. When I turned on my back,
and drew up my knees so as to balance the body on the
surface, I lay as still as a knot of wood, my head, knees,
and half of my feet out of the water; and so long as I
was perfectly still, I floated in this position. These ex-
periments satisfied me of its great specific gravity, which
probably may be greater at the south end, where are
the bitumen, and salt beds, and less fresh water; and it
may vary with the height of the sea, as this, I suppose,
depends on the supply of fresh water from the river and
streams.
  We had been so intently interested in observing our
own motions in the water, that we were not sensible of
its smarting effects when it had access to the innumer-
able night-wounds which every traveller in the East
bears with him. But when we began to dress and rub
ourselves, we found our bodies quite red, as if they had



7

 



RETURN TO JERUSALEM.



been rubbed with an acrid liquor; this continued for
some time; and next day our hair, which had been wet-
ted, was stiffly matted, and so bituminous as to cover
the thumb and fingers by which it was pressed with a
sticky substance. This continued for a week or more,
and was very unpleasant.
  It was now noon, and we had planned to sleep at St.
Saba, not that we wished to see the convent, but because
our Arabs insisted that we could not reach Jerusalem.
But when they were promised the pay of three days
instead of two if they would conduct us back to Je-
rusalem in time to enter the gates the same evening,
they exclaimed Tiebe! tiebe! and immediately struck
directly up the mountain; and under a burning sun,
such as we experience at home in July or August, we
toiled up and down the southern mountains of the " wil-
derness of Judea," and came to Neby Mousa, or Tomb
of Moses, a large, Saracenic building, with nine domes,
where the Arabs say Moses was buried. It is situated
in the midst of the barren hills, and commands a view
of the Plains of Jericho and t