xt7sqv3c0845 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7sqv3c0845/data/mets.xml Durbin, John P. (John Price), 1800-1876. 1845  books b92-201-30752238v1 English Harper, : New York : Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Middle East Description and travel.Anderson, Alexander, 1775-1870. Observations in the East  : chiefly in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor (vol. 1)/ by John P. Durbin. text Observations in the East  : chiefly in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor (vol. 1)/ by John P. Durbin. 1845 2002 true xt7sqv3c0845 section xt7sqv3c0845 





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  OBSERVATIONS IN THE EAST,




                CHIEFLY IM




EGYPT, PALESTINE, SYRIA, AND ASIA MINOR.





                  BY



   J 0 II N P. D U R B I N, D.D.,
       LATE PRESIDENT OF DICKINSON COLLEGE.

              AUTHOR OF
"OOBSERVATIONS IN EUROPE," c.





         IN TWO VOLUMES.

             VOL. I.






          N E W-Y OR K:

HARPER  BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
          82 CLIFF STREET.

              1 84 5.

 

































Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by
               HARPER  BROTHERS,
In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York

 






                  PREFACE.


  IN the Preface to a former work, I promised to offer
to my friends and the public the results of my obser-
vations during an extended tour in the East, through
Egypt, Arabia. Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor. That
promise is now redeemed.
  Believing that readers of a book of travels are not
likely to take an interest in any scenes which have not
impressed themselves so strongly upon the writer's
mind as to remain distinctly in his memory, I have ex-
cluded from these pages such portions of my journals
as I found, upon reading them after the lapse of a con-
siderable time, to have escaped my recollection.  I
may hope, therefore, that the brief descriptions here
given of scenes and incidents that have left a perma-
nent impression upon my own mind, will be a source of
pleasure, and perhaps of profit, at least to my friends.
  Although the reader will be disappointed if he looks
for profound research, topographical or antiquarian, in
these pages, I may venture to hope that in the ob-
servations on various questions connected with the fate
of Christianity in the East, which are scattered through
the volumes, sometimes interwoven with the narrative,
but generally imbodied in distinct chapters, there will



 Observations in Europe.

 




be found some important views that have not been pre-
sented by my distinguished countrymen who have so
lately travelled over the same regions. Indeed, a part
of the ground, especially in Syria and Asia Minor, is
nearly untrodden by American travellers.
  In regard to topography, the only new view that I
offer in these pages is that of the Exode of Israel from
Egypt, for which I have suggested a route differing, in
part at least, from any other that I have seen. The
reader must judge of the value of the suggestion.
  My principal guide-book in the Holy Land, besides
the Bible, was the Biblical Researches of Messrs. Rob-
inson and Smith. Their exceeding accuracy was a
matter of daily surprise to me in my travels through
Palestine; and I must express a deep sense of obligation
to such indefatigable and successful observers. I had not
then seen Dr. Olin's excellent volumes, which convey a
great amount of information, also remarkably accurate.
His first volume contains the best account of Egypt that
has appeared in this country-perhaps in the language.
  I was accompanied during my travels by three young
friends, the Rev. Thomas Sewall, of the Baltimore Con-
ference, Mr. James Cortlan, of Baltimore, and Mr. J.
O'Hara Denny, of Pittsburg, to whose vivacity and
constant disposition to oblige I was greatly indebted.
Their presence with me will explain the use of the pro.
noun we in these volumes.
                                    J. P. DURB[N.
 September, 1845.



iV



PREFACE.


 









                  CONTENTS.



                     CHAPTER I.
                NAPLES TO ALEXANDRIA.
Departure from Naples.-Company on Board.-Malta.-Wild Maltese.-Va-
letta.-Knights of St. John.-Their History.-Cathedral of St. John.-De-
parture from Malta.-Steamer Scamander.-Syra.-Steamer Dante.-
Motley Company.-First Sight of Egypt.-Landing at Alexandria.-Hotel
de l'Europe.-American Consul.-Slave Market.   .   . Page 1

                   CHAPTER II.
                       ALEXANDRIA.
Donkeys and Drivers.-Ruins of the Ancient City.-Pompey's Pillar.-Cleo
patra's Needles.- Pharos.- The Palace.-A Sentinel.- Bazars.- The
Frank Quarter.-Ancient Alexandria. .   .   .   .   .   . 11

                    CHAPTER III,
                 ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO.
Departure from Alexandria.-Camel-drivers.-The Canal.-Atfeh.-Mehe-
met Ali's Mode of digging Canals.-The Nile.-Appearance of the Coun-
try.-Mud Villages on the Nile.-Washerwomen.-Departure from Atfeh.
-Getting the wrong Boat.-An uncertain Wind.-Primitive Agriculture.-
Boats on the River.-A suspicious Village.-Walks on the Shore.-The
Murrain of Cattle.- First Sight of the Pyramids.-Boulak.-Arrival at
Cairo          ...19

                    CHAPTER IV.
                         CAIRO.
A Fete.-Strange Festivities.-Mr. Gliddon.-Walk through the City.-The
Quarters.-Streets and Houses.-Courts.-Costumes.-Dressws of Ladies.
-Of Women of the Lower Orders.-Appearance of the People.-Ophthal-
inia.-The Citadel.-Palace.-The Mint.-Joseph's Well-Massacre of
  he Mamelukes.-Mosque of the Hasaneyn.-Cemeteries.-The Pacha's
  Tomb.-The Mission-house                                31

                    CHAPTER V.
Heliopolis.-Obelisk.-Ravages of Time.-A Patriarch.-Shoubra.-The
Pacha's Villa . .      ..48
                         A 2

 




VI



';ONTENTS.



                     CHAPTER VI.

                       THE PYRAMIDS.
The Nilometer-Moses in the Bulrushes.-Officious Guides.-Pyramid of
  Cheops.-Ascent.-View from the Summit.- A Climbing Arab.-Interior
  of the Great Pyramid--Queen's Chamber.-King's Chamber-General
  View of the Pyramids.-Relative Positions and Dimensions.-Cheops.-
  Cephrenes.-Mycerinus.-Smaller Pyramids and Tombs.-Object of the
  Builders of Pyramids.-Time of their Erection.-The Sphinx . Page 51

                     CHAPTER VII.

                 AN C I E NT    M E M P H IS.
Sakhara.-Tombs and Pyramids.-Mummy Birds.-Metrahenny.-Site of
  Memphis.-Return to Cairo-Mr. Leider and the Coptic Mission.-Its
  Prospects.-Schools.-The Copts.-Their Number and Position in Egypt.
  -Their Doctrines and Church Government.                  64

                     CHAPTER VIII.
              MEHEMET ALI AND HIS POLICY.
Birth and Early History of Mehemet Ali.-His Rise in the Army.-Named
Pacha of Egypt.-Strifes with the Mamelukes.-Their Massacre.-Intro-
duction of European Discipline.-Colonel Seves.-Creation of an Army
and Navy--Conquest of Syria--The Pasha aims at Independent Sover-
eignty.-Interference of the European Powers.-Bombardment of Bey-
rout and Acre.-Designs of France and England in the East.-Policy of
England.-Character of Mehemet Ali's Government .  .   .   . 69

                     CHAPTER IX.

      CAIRO TO SUEZ.-ROUTE OF THE ISRAELITES.
Preparation for Departure.-Tualeb.-Striking a Bargain.-Loading Cam-
els.-Departure from Cairo.-View from Besatin.-Difficulty of determin-
ing the Route of Israel-Valley of the Wanderings.-Petrified Forest.-
Gebel Rhiboun.-Probable Point of Israel's Departure.-Position of Ra-
meses.-Of Zoan--Inferences from the Narrative in Exodus.-Length of
the Journeys not decided by the Narrative.-Etham  .  .  .  .

                     CHAPTER X.

               ROUTE OF THE ISRAELITES.
Wady et Tawarik.-" The Wilderness."-Gebel Atakah.-Pi-ha-hiroth.-
The Red Sea.-Conditions of the Scripture Narrative not fulfilled at Suez.
-Plain of Baideah.- Comparison of the different Routes proposed.-
Raumer's View.-No limitation of the Times of journeying set in Scrip-
ture.-Conclusions  .   .   .   ..102

 



                        CONTENTS.                        vi'

                     CHAPTER XI.
Shore of the Red Sea.-Approach to Suez.-Appearance of the Town.-
  Bedouin Tent. - Crossing the Red Sea. --Land in Asia. -Wells of Mfo-
  ses.-An Arab Mansion.-Miriam's Song.-Wilderness of Shur.-En-
  campment.-Our Company.-Arabs Sleeping.-Our Tent.-George's skl-
  ful Catering.-Life in the Desert.-Good Nature of the Arabs . Page 1t09

                    CHAPTER XII.

                 THE DESERT OF ARABIA.
Bitter Waters of Marah.-Wady Gnhurundel.-Elim.-The Twelve Wells.-
  First Sight of Mount Serbal.-Graves of the Guilty-Encampment of Is-
  rael by the Red Sea.-A dangerous Passage.-Wilderness of Sin.-Wady
  Shellal.-Sinaitic Inscriptions .117

                    CHAPTER XIII.

                  WILDERNESS OF SINAI.
Appeal to my Ambition.-Offer of a Young Wife.-A Dinner spoiled for Tua-
leb.-Wady Feiran.-Gebel Serbal.-Oasis in the Desert.-AAn Arab Vil-
lage.-Making Acquaintances.-Stone Huts.-A Deserted City.-Feiran.
-A Retired Cemetery--Ruins of the Episcopal Church of Feiran.-Tua-
leb at Home.-Singular aluminous Deposite.-Was Serbal the Sinai of
Scripture -An Apollo in the Desert.-Pass of El-Deir.-First Sight of
Mount Sinai.-Vale of Jethro.-Arrival at the Convent--Reception . 126

                    CHAPTER XIV.

                      MOUNT SINAI.

Convent of St. Catharine.-Sunrise.-Church of Justinian.-Greek Service
in the Church.-The Sanctuary.-Chapel of the Burning Bush.-The
Cemetery.-Gebel Mousa.-Ascent of the Mountain--Monkish Legends.
-Chapel of the Virgin.-Spring of Elijah.-Mohammed's Camel-track.-
Gebel Mousa not the Sinai of Scripture.-Grounds of this Conclusion.-
Ascent of Suksafeh.-The True Sinai                      137

                    CHAPTER XV.

                           SINAI.

suksafeh the True Sinai.-Tape-Measures better than Traditions.-Ac-
knowledgments to Dr. Robinson.-Dr. Olin's independent Observations.-
No Place for Doubt.-Descent from the Mountain.-Garden of the Con-
vent.-Activity of the Arab Boys.-The Rock of Moses in Horeb.-Im-
pressions.-Last Night in the Convent.-Departure  .  .  .  . 146

 




V1ii



CONTENTS.



                   CHAPTER XVI.

                     SINAI TO AKABAH.
Encampment in Wady S'Al.-Tomb of Saleh.-Sprinkling of Blood upon
  the Door-posts.-Geological Features of the Country.-El-Ghor.-Wild
  Gorge.-Grove of Palms.-The Beach.-The Gulf.-Solitude of the Des-
  ert.-Arrival at Akabah.-Reception by the Governor.-Paying our Escort.
  -Parting with our Arabs.-The Fortress of Akabah.-Its Inhabitants.-
  The Vicinity-Eloth.-Mussulmen at their Devotions.-Amusements at
  Akabah .Page 151

                  CHAPTER XVII.

                    AKABAH TO PETRA.
Return of Hussein.-Bargaining.-A Delicate Negotiation.-Conclusion.-
  Departure from Akabah.-Hussein the Alouin.-Valley of the Arabah.-
  Encampment.-Jotbath.-A  Surprise.-A Mountain Tomb.-Gebel Ha-
  roun.-Tomb of Aaron.-Descent of the Mountain-View from the Sum-
  mit.-Descent from the Mountain.-Petra .160

                   CHAPTER XVIII.

                           PETRA.
Boundaries of the Vale of Petra.-Different Ways of Access.-The Sik.--
  Pavement.-Aqueducts.-Triumphal Arch.-Tombs.-The Treasury of
  Pharaoh.-Guard-house.-Tomb with Greek Inscription.-Theatre.-Sep
  ulchre opposite.-View of the City Area.-Tombs in the Eastern Cliffs.-
  Corinthian Tomb.-Tombs in the Western Cliffs.-Unfinished Sepulchre
                                                           169

                    CHAPTER XIX.

                           PET RA.
Ascent to El-Deir.-The Temple.-Remarkable Ruin.-View froni the Sum-
mit.-Staircase in the Mountain Side. -City Proper.-Ancient Population
of Petra.-Question as to the Excavations.-Historical Sketch.-Question
as to Identity of Petra.-Scripture Prophecies Relating to Petra.-Their
Fulfilment.-Causes of its Ancient Splendour.-Decay.-Overstraining of
Prophecy .180

                    CHAPTER XX.
People of Wady Mousa.-The Servant of Haroun.-Departure from Petra.-
Washington's Birthday.-Loss of a Camel--Heavy Rains.-Summit-level
of the Arabah.-Said's Story.-Kadesh Barnea.-Apprehensioris of Con-
flict.-Pleasant Disappointment.-The Caravan.-Position of Kadesh Bar-
nea.-Pass Es St Uh.-The Promised Land                   190

 






                   CHAPTER XXI.
                   THE HOLY LAND.
Shooting a Gazelle.-Venison-Aroer.-The Wells of Beersheba.-Ancient
  Scenes.- Flocks, Herds, and Tents.- Pasture-grounds of Abraham.-
  Dwellings in Caves.-Ancient Cisterns.-Ancient Road.-Approach to
  Hebron.-nThe City.-The Pool.-The Harem.-Cave of Machpelah.-
  Tombs of the Patriarchs.-Said's Description.-Appearance of the City.-
  Women Mourning in the Cemetery.-Parting with the Alouins . Page 201

                  CHAPTER XXII.
                  HIEBRON TO JERUSALEM.
Route from Hebron.-Desolate Region.-Pools of Solomon.-The great
Aqueduict.-Bethlehein.-Dilapidlated Appearance of the Place.-Trade in
pious Toys.-The Convent.-Roman Catholic Service.-Greek Service.-
Tomb of Jerome.-Pretended Birthplace of Christ.-Tomb of Rachel.-
First View of Jerusalem.--Disappointment.-Quarantine.-Kindness of
Friends.-Carnival.-Negotiations .214

                  CHAPTER XXIII.
               JERUSALEM.-WALK I.
The City Walls.-Walking under Guard.-General View of the City.-Val-
leys.--Hills.-Be12tha.-Its Appearance.-Moriah.-The Mosque of Omar.
-Zion.-Akra.-Gloomy Appearance of the City.-The Environs.-The
Mount of Olives.-Upper Pool of Gihon.-Lower Pool.-Hill of Offence
                                                       226
                  CHAPTER XXIV.
              JERUSALEM.-WALK II.
TO THE TOMBS OF THE JUDGES, AND DOWN THE VALLEY
                    OF JEHOSHAPHAT.
Great Plains Northwest of the City.-Tombs of the Judges.-Why so call-
ed.-Course of the Valley of Jehoshaphat-Tombs of the Kings.-Vari-
ous Apartments.-Pleasant Rural Scene.-Tomb of the Virgin Mary.-
Tomb of Absalom.-Of Jehoshaphat.-Of St. James.-Of Zechariah.-
Cemetery of the Jews.-Village of Siloam.-Potter's Field  .  . 233

                  CHAPTER XXV.
             JERUSALEM.-WALK III.
                EXCURSION TO BETHANY.
Damascus Gate.-Turkish Soldiers.-Grotto of Jeremiah.-Road to Beth-
any.-Tombs of the Prophets.-Various Chambers and Excavations,-
Path trodden by the Feet of Christ.-Scenes of his Walks.-Of his Entry



ixY



CONTENTS.

 




x



CONTENTS.



into Jerusalem.-Of his Weeping over Jerusalem.-Of the Ascension.-
Convent of Black Nuns.-Friendship of Jesus and Lazarus.-Remains of
the Church of the Ascension .Page 211

                  CHAPTER XXVI.
              JERUSALEM.-WALK IV.
                 INTERIOR OF THE CITY.
Release from Quarantine.-Lodgings in the Latin Convent.-Call on Mrs.
Whiting.-Pleasant Impressions.-Mr. Nicolayson.-Visit to a Rich Jew.
-A Jewish Family.-An Eventful History.-Conversation with the Jew.
-Streets of Jerusalem.-An Old Bazar.-The Turkish Bath  .   252

                 CHAPTER XXVII.
              JERUSALEM.-WALK V.

DOWN GIHON AND HINNOM       TO THE VALLEY OF JEIIOSH-
                         APHAT.
Head of the Gihon.-The Upper Pool.-The Lower Pool.-Valley of Hinnoni
-Tophet.-Idolatry of the Jewish Kings.-Well of Nehemiah.-En- Rogel.
-Ancient Mulberry-tree.-Ophel.-Pool and Fountain of Siloam.-Sub-
terranean Channel.-Fountain of the Virgin.-Moving of the Waters.-
Tents in the Valley.-An Arab Family  .260

                 CHAPTER XXVIII.
              JERUSALEM.-WALK VI.
                      MOUNT ZION.
The Citadel.-Tower of Hippicus.-The Armenian Convent.-Church of
St. James.-Tawdry Ornaments.-Zion without the Walls-Hlouse of
Caiaphas.-Stone which closed the Sepulchre of Christ.-Christian Cem
eteries.-Tomb of David.-The Cmnaculum.---Eastern Part of Zion.-
Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools.-Colony of Lepers.-Forms of Leprosy.
-Remains of Ancient Bridge connecting the Temple with Mount Zion.-
Difficulty of Access.-A Surly Gate-keeper.-Walls of the Temple Area.-
Their Various Dates.-G reat Antiquity of the Lower Courses.-Fragment
of the Arch.-Measurements-Historical Question.-Controversy as to
the Discovery of the Arch--The Jews' Quarter.-Jews' Place of Wailing
                                                       269
                  CHAPTER XXIX.
             JERUSALEM.-WALK VII.
   GETHSEMANE.-THE ENCLOSURE OF THE TEMPLE.
Gethsemane.-Pool of Bethesda.-Enclosure of the Temple.-Peep at the
Interior.-View from Governor's House.-Mr. Catherwood's Account.-

 





  Difficulty of Gaining Admittance.-Stratagem.-Danger.-Rescue.-En-
  trance.-Platform of the Mosque-The Mosque of Omar-Natural Rock
  under the Dome.-The Noble Cave.-The Well of Souls.-Pilgrims.-
  Mosque El-Aksa.-Vaults.-Identity of Site of the Ancient Temple.-Di-
  mensions of Area.-Conclusions .Page 279

                    CHAPTER XXX.
       THE VIA DOLOROSA.-THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
               JERUSALEM.-WALK VIII.
Via Dolorosa.-Ecce Homo.-Church of the Holy Sepulchre-First Im-
pressions-The Court.-Pilgrims.-Buyers and Sellers.-The Vestibule.
-Stone of Unction.-The Nave.-Sepulchre.-Tomb of Joseph of Ani-
mathea.-Chapel of Franciscans.-Chapel of the Greeks.-Altars.-Monk-
ish Traditions.-Chapel of Helena.-Place of the Finding of the Crosses.
-The Supposed Calvary.-Disputes about Possession of the Church.-
  Degrading Exhibitions of Christianity in Jerusalem.--Controversy as to
  the Identity of the Sepulchre.-Views of different Travellers.-The Tradi-
  tion rejected.-Grounds of this Rejection.-Invalidated by both History
  and Topography..                                          . 294

                    CHAPTER XXXI.

               RESTORATION OF THE JEWS.
Four Interpretations of Prophecies relating to the Restoration.-The last
adopted.-Prophecies adduced and examined.-A literal Restoration set
forth by Ezekiel and Jeremiah.-A political State to be constituted-
Proofs from the New I'estament.-Conversion of the Jews to be connected
with their Restoration-Collateral Questions.-Ezekiel's Valley of Vis-
ion.-Restoration of the Ten Tribes.-Second Advent to be preceded by
the Restoration-Duty of Christians in regard to the Israelites.-Their
Restoration closely connected with the Triumph of Christianity.-Disper-
sion of the Jews.-Characteristics.-Their influence in Literature and Pol-
itics.-Adaptation for the Missionary Work.-Signs of the Times.-Pres-
ent State of the Jewish Mind.-Sentiments of Christians towards the Jews.
-The State of Palestine.-Condition of the Turkish Empire  .  . 311



xi



CONTENTS.

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  OBSERVATIONS IN THE EAST.



                  CHAPTER 1.
              NAPLES TO ALEXANDRIA.
Departure from Naples.-Company on Board.-Malta.-Wild Maltese.-Va-
letta.-Knights of St. John.-Their History.-Cathedral of St. John.-De-
parture from Malta.-Steamer Scamander.-Syra.-Steamer Dante.-
Motley Company.-First Sight of Egypt.-Landing at Alexandria.-Hotel
de l'Europe.-American Consul.-Slave Market.
  AMID the roar of cannon accompanying the closing
hours of the Christmas festival, we embarked in the fine
steamer Eurotas, and soon bade farewell to the Bay of
Naples.
  Our vessel was an excellent sea-boat, very tight and
steady. The officers, though Frenchmen, were disLant,
haughty, and exceedingly reserved; but the company
on board was excellent, which made the trip to Malta
very agreeable. We had, among the rest, two Capu-
cins, on their way to India as missionaries; one of them
bigoted and morose enough, but the other a cheerful,
even jovial fellow. I spent the two evenings of our
stay on board delightfully, walking the deck-Christ-
mas week though it was-as if it were summer, watch-
ing the receding shores, first of Calabria, then of Sicily
and talking with my pleasant Capucin, who, in spite of
his coarse brown cloak and hood, was full of good fel-
lowship.
  At three o'clock on the afternoon of December 27th,
  VOL. I.-A

 

MALTA.-VALETTA



we came to anchor under the walls of Valetta. A set of
wild Maltese immediately boarded us, who had to be lit-
erally kicked out by the officers; and when we reached
the landing another gang assailed us-tawny, savage-
looking fellows-whose wild gestures and mongrel lan-
guage convinced us that we were passing into the region
of Oriental influences. The wharves and streets were
infested with these semi-Arabs. We made good our es-
cape from them by the aid of George, our Greek courier,
whom we had engaged at Naples, and the interposition
of a police officer, and soon found our way to the Clar-
ence Hotel, in the Strada Reale, where we felt that we
were still in Europe.
  Although our stay in Malta was so short that we could
not do more than see Valetta and its environs, we yet
found enough to make us wish that we had more time
at our disposal. The city itself is a curiosity in many
respects. It is, perhaps, next to Gibraltar, the most im-
pregnable position in the world. It appeared to us, on
entering the harbour, that the fortresses which guard its
narrow mouth might not only resist, but even annihilate,
any naval force that could be brought against them.
The frowning forts of St. Elmo on the right, and Rica-
soli on the left, could crush the most powerful vessel in
passing through the narrow entrance. The city is neat,
well built, and contains about 40,000 inhabitants. Its
massive walls rise from the water's edge, and are sur-
mounted with heavy ordnance, so that on all sides it
appears like a fortress rather than a town.
  Such, indeed, its founder, Valette, the most celebrated
of the grand masters of the Order of St. John, intend-
ed it to be. Driven from Rhodes by the Turks in 1522,
the knights established themselves in Malta, and deter-
mined to fortify their position against any possible at-



2

 


KNIGHTS OF MALTA.



tacks of the Saracens. Solyman the Magnificent, who
had driven them from Rhodes, determined, in 1565, to
accomplish their expulsion from Malta, and sent Mus-
tapha Pacha, with 30,000 men and ample munitions of
war, to execute his purpose. The siege, which is the
most memorable, perhaps, in history for its severity,
was raised at the end of four months, and the knights
were left in peace, but their town and fortress were bat-
tered to pieces. La Valette laid the foundation of the
new city which bears his name in 1566, and commen-
ced the marvellous fortifications which are still the won-
der of the world.
  The history of the Knights Hospitallers, up to the sev-
enteenth century, is a splendid one, full of all the elements
of romance. After that period their exploits were com-
paratively insignificant, though their wealth and splen-
dour continued to increase. The city of Valetta con-
tains abundant monuments of their taste and magnifi-
cence. Each grand master attempted to excel his pred-
ecessors in beautifying the capital, and adding to the
strength of its fortifications. The order was divided
into eight langues or nations-the German, Italian, Cas-
tilian, Aragonese, Provenpal, Auvergnese, French, and
English. The English branch of the order, however,
was dissolved by Henry VIII., and its property in Brit-
ain confiscated. Each of these branches had immense
possessions in the different countries of Europe, and
much of their revenue was spent in Malta. This will
account for the enormous forts, the subterranean exca-
vations, and the splendid palaces which remain in the
island to attest the wealth and enterprise of the knights.
Each langue had its separate palace in Valetta, and these
splendid edifices constitute the principal charm of the
city. These abodes of luxury were occupied by the



3

 




knights until 1798, when the fleet of Napoleon, on its
way to Egypt, appeared before the harbour, and the de-
generate descendants of L'Isle Adam and La Valette
gave up their stronghold without striking a blow. This
was the virtual end of the order; the knights were scat-
tered over Europe, and the island was retained by the
French for a year and a half, when they, in their turn,
surrendered it to the English, after a most pertinacious
and heroic resistance. By the Treaty of Amiens, the
English government engaged unequivocally to restore
the independence of the island; but it was too impor-
tant a post to be easily parted with, and the government
determined to break its promise.  The best English
authorities have condemned this breach of treaty; but
the great advantage to England of possessing such a for-
tress in the Mediterranean is too powerful for her sense of
conventional honour, and the island still remains under
her dominion. The mildness and equity of her admin-
istration, together with a great increase of population
and wealth, have reconciled the inhabitants to her sway;
and civilization in the East may yet be largely indebted
to the English occupation of Malta.
  But to return to Valetta. The principal street of the
city is the Strada Reale, which runs along on the summit
of the ridge or promontory between the two harbours,
from Fort St. Elmo to the chief gate leading out into
the interior of the island. It is a very fine street. The
building material is the light yellow limestone of the isl-
and. The governor's residence, situated in the Strada
Reale, and formerly the palace of the grand master, is a
spacious and imposing building. In the same street are
the exchange, the library, and the principal hotels and
shops. The other streets of the city run parallel to this,
and are connected with it by various flights of stone



4



VALETTA .

 


CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN.



steps, the ascent being too steep on either side to allow
of a carriage way.
  The Cathedral of St. John is an immense edifice,
though presenting no external display of magnificence.
We visited it by candlelight, and a most interesting visit
it was. As we walked over its rich mosaic pavement,
emblazoned with the armorial bearings of the knights
who sleep below-wandered through the side-chapels
belonging to the different langues, adorned with paint-
ings and rich in sculpture, and descended into the sol-
emn crypt, filled with monuments of the grand masters
in bronze or marble, and hung with highly-wrought tap-
estry representing the life of the Saviour, we could not
but recall to mind the days of chivalry of which these
valiant knights of St. John were so distinguished an or-
nament. Few edifices in Europe are more impressive
than this Cathedral.
  But I must say no more of our stay in Malta. We
should have prolonged it gladly had our plans allowed;
but the winter was rapidly passing, and we were has-
tening to the East. The fine French steamer Scaman-
der was in the western or quarantine port; a small boat
took our luggage, another ourselves, to the side of the
vessel, as she lay in quarantine, where we were desert-
ed by the officers who had accompanied us. We felt, as
we ascended to the deck, that we were cut off from Eu-
rope, for we had entered the dominion of the Plague.
Five minutes after the anchor was weighed we were
rising and sinking upon the sea-waves, so closely is Mal-
ta invested by the Mediterranean.
  We had chiefly the same passengers who had em-
barked with us from Naples. The weather was mild,
and we remained on deck nearly the whole time. The
sailors were barefooted, and every morning were en-
                       A 2

 


GREECE.-PASSENGERa.



gaged in scrubbing and flooding the ship. The metal
parts were polished and oiled; everything was kept in
order without noise. On the morning of December 30
we came in sight of Greece, and ran along the southern
coast all day. Her mountains were in view, among
which the snowy Taygetus appeared pre-eminent.
Night came down upon us off the Gulf of Nauplia;
and, as the sun rose next morning, we let go our an-
chor in the beautiful semicircular bay of Syra, and
hastening on deck, I found myself amid the isles of
Greece. It is impossible to give the reader any just
conceptions of the profound and pleasing emotions
which a traveller experiences when, for the first time,
he can say, I am in Greece!
  But we are bound for the East, and must not loiter
by the way, even in Greece. So, on the afternoon of
New-Year's day, we transhipped from the Scamander
to the Dante, another French steamer, bound to Alex-
andria in Egypt. We lost by the change, for, although
she was strongly built, she was slow of speed and bad-
ly found. But we had the world on board. There
were Turks, Tartars, English, Germans, Italians, Greeks,
Armenians, French, Americans, and what not, all ex-
hibiting their national and habitual peculiarities. The
French sailors, in groups on the forward deck, sung the
lively airs of their own beautiful France; the grave, dig-
nified, dirty Turks hovered around the engine-chimney,
and chanted a low, wild, guttural music, in which I could
distinguish the word Allah often repeated. Some of
them rolled themselves up in their quilts, and lay down
over the boilers for warmth, while the passengers from
more northern and unpropitious climes, and of more ac-
tive habits, walked the ship, freely enjoying the cool, re-
freshing sea-breeze. Several Turks retired to the cabin,



6

 


ALEXANDRIA.



and sat cross-legged in their berths; how could they sit
upright upon chairs like Christians  Our party and the
Capucins retreated to the cabin adjoining, after having
invoked iEolus and Neptune to be more propitious to
us than they had been to Paul, when he was in " a ship
of Alexandria," on his way to appeal to Czesar against
an avaricious governor of Judea. But our invocation
was in vain, for about midnight the sea was up; to-
wards morning "no small tempest was upon us ;" and
all next day and night the " Euroclydon" was on the
waste world of angry waters, and we, with one lone
sail to leeward, were the only living things visible on
the raging, desolate domain.
  On the morning of the fifth of January, as the sun
struggled up through the clouds which pressed down
heavily on the sea, the low coast of Egypt showed its
sand-swells to the east of the Pharos, or lighthouse of Al-
exandria, and in the course of an hour the fort and indent-
ed sand-coast became visible to the west. The sea was
exceedingly high, and the pilot-boat had much difficulty
in getting to windward so as to give us the direction of
the narrow channel between the shore and the breakers
which extend westward from the lighthouse. But, hav-
ing once got our bearings, our gallant steamer moved
into the deep, safe harbour, and took her station amid
the fleet of merchantmen and Egyptian ships of war.
It was an animating sight. But when our anchor was
down, then indeed commenced the wild hurrah. Count-
less caiques and skiffs crowded to the sides of the ship
to obtain passengers and luggage. They were full of
half-naked, tawny, dirty Arabs and jet black Nubians;
the first with heavy coifs around their heads, and the
latter with a loose white shirt, and trousers made of
coarse muslii. rolled round their thighs, and coiled up



7

 




below their knees. Every one talked at the top of his
voice, and often with gesticulations so violent as to in-
dicate that momentous matters depended on his being
heard. Fortunately, Mr. Rhey, of the Hotel de l'Eu-
rope, met with our courier, and, with the aid of his ser-
vants, we were all soon disembarked with our luggage,
and landed on the dock near the Custom-house. There
we found a ragged, wild-looking crowd, with saddled
donkeys for passengers, and camels for luggage. The
rush upon us was more violent and boisterous than at
Malta. We were about to be taken by force, when Mr.
Rhey interfered and put us in his carriage, and pointing
to a camel, it stalked forward at the bidding, kneeled
down with a complaining groan, and lay quietly on its
belly. The confused pile of cordage coiled up on the
huge wooden packsaddle on the back of the animal was
soon opened out into a net-work, spreading on the ground
on each side of him, upon which our luggage being
placed, and the meshes drawn up by cords so as to bring
the load upon the sides and back of the beast, he rose at
the bidding of his driver, and moved away. Arriving
at the Custom-house, he knelt humbly before a grave,
turbaned Turk, who came out in his official robes, look-
ed upon the submissive animal, read a letter which our
courier had been prudent enough to obtain at the Turk-
ish consulate in Syra, and graciously permitted our lug-
gage to proceed without fee or reward.
  We soon found ourselves in pretty good quarters