xt773n20cs1s https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt773n20cs1s/data/mets.xml Ragland, Robert L. 1880  books b98-31-40188329 English W.E. Jones, : Richmond, [Va.] : Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Tobacco. Tobacco, from the seed to the salesroom  / by Robert L. Ragland. text Tobacco, from the seed to the salesroom  / by Robert L. Ragland. 1880 2002 true xt773n20cs1s section xt773n20cs1s 


"Whatever is worth doing at all, is worth doing well."



TO BACCO,



FROM THE



SEED TO THE SALESROOM.



BY



ROBERT L. RAGLAND,



HALIFAX COUNTY, VA.



[Copyright Secured According to Law.]



         R I C H M O N D:
Wm. Ellis Jones, Steam Book & Job Printer.
            i88o.



I

 











                         PREFACE.



  THE favorable reception which my Essay on Yellow Tobacco met, car-
rying it through four editions, in a few years, aggregating over one hun-
dred thousand copies, and the last edition being exhausted, causes me to
re-write, revise and enlarge it, and as far as in me lies, to make it more
worthy of a discriminating and appreciative industry.
  The science of tobacco culture, curing and management, like every
other industrial pursuit in this progressive age, has been greatly advanced
in the past decade. The demand for bright goods of first quality has
never been fully met, while prices have ruled high enough to lead to in-
creased efforts in this line, and in many instances in localities where very
little is known concerning this important crop.
  To supply instruction called for, by giving information born of experi-
ence, is what the author seeks to do in this little book. He can scarcely
hope for a more favorable reception than was accorded'to the first edition.
  In a practical treatise like this, it is difficult to avoid dry and tedious
narrative. The only pleasure that can come from its perusal, is the hope
of acquiring information which will prove useful to the reader. That it
may accomplish this, lighten the labors, soothe the anxiety, and cheer the
hopes of the young and inexperienced, is the sincere wish of the author,
who would fain hope that his work will not be in vain.

                                               R. L. RAGLAND.



Hyco, Halifax Co., Va., Jan. i88o.

 






                  TOBACCO.,

                            FROM THE

  SEED TO THE SALESROOM.



  THE several grades of tobacco, whether for chewing, pipe-smoking, or
.cigars, require different soils and management to insure a product that will
command an adequate return for the labor and means expended thereon.
It is therefore of the highest importance that the planter should know
what grade his lands are capable of producing in the greatest perfection;
and the modes and management to accomplish the best results from such
choice.
  A deep rich soil, overlaying a red clay subsoil, is best suited for dark
heavy ski.pping tobaccos.
  A gravelly or sandy soil, with a red or brown subsoil, is best adapted to
the production of sweet fillers and stemming tobaccos.
  Alluvials and rich flats produce the best cigar stock.
  And experience has proved that a gray sandy or slaty top:soil, with a
yellow porous subsoil, is best for yellow wrappers and smokers. And
these grades are in so great demand, and command so much more in
price, than any others, that we propose, in this short treatise, to devote to
them most space. For, in the production of these, the author has had
most experience and success; and while the production of brights require
more skill and careful management, they seldom fail to make ample com-
pensation for all the attention bestowed upon them.
  But unless the planter makes provision by building or arranging suita-
ble barns, provided with flues, or prepares charcoal, he need not expect to
succeed, and had better aim at some other grade requiring less preparation,
cost and skill.
  Log barns, ranging from sixteen to twenty feet square, are the sizes
mostly used. These should be built about twenty feet high in the body and
covered with shingles or boards. Large logs may be used until the pen
is built about seven feet high from the ground. Then if the size is twenty
feet, lay off for five rooms, four feet apart, and place tier poles across to
form the lower tier. Raise two logs higher all around and put on another
course of tier poles directly over the first. Then, using smaller logs

 

TOBACCO, FROM THE SEED



(cabin size) place on three logs higher all around, laying on tier poles as
before, and continue to elevate the body of the barn until you have five
tiers. Then place two more logs around- and the plates, and the pen is
ready to be roofed. You will then have a barn with five rooms and five
tiers high. Mark you, the lower tiers are not firing tiers, but placed in the
barn for the convenience of hoisting, and for storing cured tobacco when
necessary. By this arrangement, the tiers are about three feet apart and
vertical, the body of the barn a cube-as high as it is wide and deep-
and the whole arrangement conformable to the process of curing. The
roof is so constructed, conforming to the plan of the tiers below, as to
contain three tiers above the joist, varying in length. Such a barn will
hold about 650 to 700 sticks of medium tobacco, six plants to the stick.
To prepare it for curing brights, it must be chinked and daubed close.

                                Flues.

  Flues of brick or stone, covered with sheet iron and having return
pipes of same material, need not cost over 25 to each barn. They are
cheaper and better than charcoal, and the tobacco cured therewith is
cleaner and brighter. For all purposes where it is necessary to apply
heat in curing any grade, the flue is best, and is destined to supercede the
open wood fire with its objectionable smoke.
  Believing that we can do the uninformed no better service than in
sketching a cheap and efficient plan for the construction of flues, we will
attempt to give one that has long been in use, and has proved to do well.



4

 

TO THE SALESROOM.



  In the first place, cut out two or three logs from the end of the barn,
and construct the walls of the flues 12 or IQ inches distant from the sills
or walls of the barn, as at E E E E in the diagram, and projecting out-
side of the walls, at A A some fourteen or fifteen inches. Build the walls
eighteen inches apart and eighteen or twenty inches high at A A, decreas-
ing in height as they run back to fourteen inches at C C. Put in sheet
iron pipes ten or twelve inches in diameter at C C, equidistant from the
flues and from each other, and carry them through the body of the barn,
out at D D, with the ends at D D elevated three feet higher than at C C.
The flues should be arched or covered with flat stone for about five feet
from A A to B B, then cover the flues from B B to C C with sheet iron.
It is best to use number sixteen nearest the fire, as at B B, while thinner
iron, number eighteen or twenty, will answer for covering the remainder.
  For strength, durability, efficiency and economy, this flue has no equal;
and its extensive use throughout the bright tobacco region of Virginia
and North Carolina proves its value.
  Let beginners remember that only by patience and perseverance they
can hope to succeed; for without a good stock of these essentials, they
can never be successful planters.

                          Choice of Seed.

  The choice of seed, suited to the several grades, is of paramount im-
portance. No one but a novice would sow " Bull Face " and " Big Frede-
rick" for the fine manufacturing grade, or choose the fine varieties for
heavy coarse stock. A careful, sensible man will select those varieties
which experience has demonstrated will best produce the grades for which
his soil and climate are best suited.
  We recommend for the dark, heavy shipping grades, the Long Green,
Big Frederick, Bull Face and Medley Pryor, with a preference for the
latter where a rich black leaf is wanted.
  For a desirable cutting grade and heavy "drinker," i. e., a porous leaf
that will absorb much manufacturing material, we recommend the White
Burley.
  For mahogany wrappers and sweet fillers, there is nothing that excels
Sweet Oronoko.
  For bright wrappers, Yellow Oronoko, Yellow Pryor, UWhite Stem and
Gooch, each has preference according to locality and fancy.
  But what is of transcendant importance to every planter who studies
his interest, is to produce first class goods, whatever the grade, and where
it is possible, to place upon the market only what is sure to please the best
class of customers.



5

 

TOBACCO, FROM THE SEED



                    Preparation of Plant Beds.

  There are two modes for raising plants-in hot bed or cold frame, or inr
the open air-one or the other of which has preference according to lo-
cality; the former being more practiced north of forty degrees latitude,
while the latter is preferred south of that line. We will here give both,
that planters may choose.
  THE HOT BED.-Select a southern or south-eastern exposure, sheltered
on the north, dig and shovel out a space five by twelve feet, or any re-
quired length, to the depth of eighteen inches. Place straw to the depth
of three or four inches in the bottom of this trench and cover with fresh
unrotted manure from the stable to the depth of six or eight inches; then
cover, the manure with soil-woods mould is best-five inches deep, and
surround the bed with planks twelve inches wide on north side and six
inches wide on the south. These will make a frame over which sections
of canvass covering should be placed to keep the bed warm, promote
growth and pro1ect the plants. These sections may be made of frames
five feet long and three feet wide, with common domestic cloth tacked
thereon as a covering, and they answer every purpose as glazed sash,
are cheaper and less destructible, and may be used for several years to
grow tobacco or horticultural plants. Once used, you will be loth to do
without them for the latter purpose. But to return. Tobacco seed is
sown on the bed thus prepared at the rate of two teaspoonfuls to a bed
five by twelve feet. To sow regularly, mix the seed with a fertilizer, ashes
or plaster, and sow in drills three inches apart. A bed twelve feet long
will require four sections of canvass covering, which are light and handy
and may be put on or off or adjusted at pleasure. When the plants have
pretty well covered the surface of the bed, remove the canvass during the
day and only replace them when there is danger of frost, or to keep off
the flea-bugs. There is the advantage of having earlier plants by this
mode and perfect security against the plant-bug, which will repay for the
additional cost of raising at least a portion of the plants needed for the
crop, by this safe mode.
  OPEN AIR BEDs.-But there is no question that open air beds are
cheapest. And, where this mode of raising plants is practicable, it is
greatly to be preferred for the main supply of plants. It is a well estab-
lished opinion that plants raised in the open air stand transplanting better
and usually grow off quicker than plants raised in hot bed or cold. frame.
  SELECTION OF LoCALITY.-On the selection of a proper locality for
a plant bed, and its preparation, largely depends the timely supply of
strong healthy plants; without which it is impossible to raise a crop of fine



6

 

TO THE SALESROOM.



grade. The planter therefore cannot be too careful in choosing a sheltered
spot, neither too wet nor too dry, as rich naturally as can be found, and
located so as to possess different degrees of moisture.
  Go into the woods, original forest if possible, and select a spot near a
branch or stream of water, embracing both hill side and flat, and having
a southern or south-eastern exposure, protected by woods on the north.
Burn over the plat intended for plants, either by the old or new method.
The first consists in placing down a bed of wood on small skids three to
four feet apart on the ground, well cleared and raked. Then fire this bed of
wood and permit it to remain burning long enough to cook the soil brown
for half an inch deep. With hooks, or old hoes fastened to long poles,
pull the burning mass of brands a distance of four and a half or five feet,
throw on brush and wood, and continue burning and moving the fire until
the bed is burned over. Never burn when the land is wet. It will require
from one and a half to two hours to cook the soil properly.
  Or better still: Rake over nicely the plat to be burned, then place
down poles from two to four inches in diameter, three and a half to four
feet apart, over the entire surface to be burned. Then place brush thickly
over the plat and weight down with wood, over which throw leaves, trash
or other combustible material, and set the whole on fire and burn at one
operation.
  But any mode of burning the plat will suffice, provided that it is effec-
tually done. After the plat has been burned and has cooled, rake off the
large coals and brands, but let the ashes remain, as they are essentially a
first-class manure. Then coulter over the plat deeply or break with grub
hoes, and make fine the soil by repeated chopping and raking, observing
not to bring the subsoil to the surface, and remove all roots and tufts. Ma-
nure from the stable, hog pen or poultry house, or some reliable commer-
cial fertilizer should be chopped into and thoroughly incorporated with
the soil while preparing the bed to be sown. Experience has demonstrated
that it is better to use both. But beware of using manure containing grass
seed. The judgment of the planter must guide him in the amount of
fertilizing material to be applied at this stage; but it were well to remind
him that the tobacco plant rarely responds to homcepathic doses of plant
food, but that the allopathic usage suits it best.
  Sow at the rate of a tablespoonful on every fifty square yards at first
sowing, and later resow with a heaping teaspoonful over same surface, to
secure a good stand. Injury by frost or bugs may require a third or
fourth sowing. Sow a little thick rather than too thin to meet contingen-
cies, and secure a good stand in time.
  The best way to sow the seed is to mix them thoroughly with a fertil-
izer or dry ashes, and sow once regularly over the bed, reserving seed



7

 

TOBACCO, FROM THE SEED



enough to cross sow to promote regularity. The tobacco seed is the
smallest of all farm seeds, and consequently requires a light covering. If
the seed are sown before the 20th of February, the best way is to firm the
surface of the bed by treading it over closely, but if sown later, sweep
lightly over with a brush or light rake. Then run surface drains through
the bed, with inclination enough to pass off the water.  To do this
properly run them off four or five feet apart with the foot, then open with
a narrow grubbing-hoe to the depth of three or four inches. Then trench
deeply around the outside of the bed, to ward off surface water and pre-
vent washing.
  MULCHING AND COVERING.-Hog hair whipped fine and scattered
over the bed, attracts and retains moisture, protects the plants from frost,
and acts as a manure. There is no better covering for a plant-bed, but
unfortunately it is rarely ever in full supply. Fine brush should be
placed thickly over the bed, or if not handy, cover with straw or chaff
free from grain. A covering of some such material is necessary, or the
young plants are likely to be killed by frost or suf4er from drought, and
they thrive better from some protection.
  A STANDING PLANT-BED.-Every planter ought to have a standing
plant-bed, which may be secured in the following way: Some time in July
or August select one of the best of the old plant-beds, and with hoes shave
down the green plants over its entire surface, and cover over thickly with
straw or leaves, then place green brush thickly over the bed and weight
down with wood. When the whole is dry, sometime in the late fall or
early winter, set on fire, and thus reburn over the bed. Then chop and
rake fine, sow and trench as when first prepared. Repeat the same oper-
ation every year, and if the bed is manured properly it will improve and
prove a stand-by for many years.
  UNBURNED BEDs.-Plants may be raised by going into the forest, se-
lecting a moist rich plat, and after raking off the leaves, coultering or
chopping the surface fine, manuring heavily and sowing the seed. But
such beds rarely hold out well if the season is dry. They never "repeat"
well after the first " drawing" like burnt beds; which are more reliable for
a successive supply of plants as the season advances.
  T.IME OF SOWING SEED.-The time for sowing varies with the latitude,
variety and season. Between the parallels of 35 and 40 degrees north,
compassing the great tobacco belt, beds may be sown any time between
the ist of January and 20th of Mfarch, and the sooner the better for the
bright grades, which ought to be planted early to mature, ripen and yel-
low, preparatory to being cured early in the fall, when more successful
curings are usually made. Yellow tobacco ought to be planted out in



a

 

TO THE SALESROOM.



May, but June plantings usually do best in heavy dark grades. The
planter will consult his interest by sowing at the proper time to suit the
grade he desires to raise.
  Plants set out after the ioth of July rarely pay for growing and
handling, and if not planted by that time it will be wise to plant the hills
in peas, potatoes or something else.
  HASTENING THE GROWTH OF PLANTS.-As soon as the plants become
"square," i. e., have four leaves, you may begin to force their growth if
necessary. Nothing is better at this stage of their growth than to apply
dry stable manure, rubbed fine and sowed over the bed-applying at the
rate of five bushels to every one hundred square yards. Be sure to have
it dry and fine, and apply when the plants are dry. This is a favorable
time to apply a good fertilizer, and the best time to apply it is during a
shower, or when it is apparent that one is impending.
  LOOK OUT FOR THE " FLEA-BUG."-If the "fly," as it is called, begins
to devour the young plants, apply plaster, in which rags saturated with
kerosene oil have lain for a few hours, covering the plants with the plaster,
if necessary, to keep the little pests from devouring them. Repeat the
application after every rain unless the flies have left.
  A covering of green cedar brush has driven off the fly when other rem-
edies failed, and saved the plants. If the flies are numerous, the planter
can save his plants only by vigilant and constant attention. Hard burn-
ing, early and thick sowing, liberal and frequent applications of manure,
are the best safeguards, which rarely fail to reward the planter with an
early and full supply of stocky plants, and with some left for his less prov-
ident neighbors.
  Some planters, if such they may be called, always fail some never.
Follow the latter, and you will always be right.

          Selection of Soil, Preparation and Manuring.

  The tobacco plant thrives best in a deep, mellow, loamy soil, rich or
made so with manures. The subsoil ought to be sufficiently porous to
permit the water falling on the surface to pass downward readily, and not
to accumulate to drown and stagnate.
  If old land is selected, it ought to be fallowed deep in the fall or early
winter, that the frosts may pulverize it. Turn under, if possible, some
coarse farm manure, for its decay will greatly help to loosen the soil, while
furnishing pabulum for the crop. As a coarse manure for yellow tobacco,
nothing is better than wheat straw turned under in the fall and winter.
The plants rarely fail to ripen yellow in color on land thus treated.



9

 

TOBACCO, FROM THE SEED



  In the early spring more manure may be applied, but it is better that
this should come from the compost heap. Follow the application of the
compost with one horse turning ploughs, crossing the previous ploughing,
turning not exceeding four or five inches deep-about half the depth of
the first ploughing. Then, just before it is time to plant, run double
shovel ploughs over the lot, crossing the previous furrows, and follow
with harrow or drag, crossing again to thoroughly make fine. These
repeated ploughings, crossing each time every firevious one, never fail,
if the work is done when the land is in proper condition, to put it in
proper tilth.
  Let the planter remember that "a good preparation is half cultivation,'"
and not stop until the land is in proper condition.
  If any one knows of a better way then let him pursue it-the writer
knows of none better. And just here it may be well to state, that perfec-
tion is not claimed for any mode or practice recommended in this book,
but only the best methods known to the author is given, for guidance to
the uninitiated. We live and learn, but life is too short to learn every
good thing by experience unaided. Every man owes something to those
who are to come after him; to freely give as he has freely received.
  But the author is not writing for those who know more than he does-
and doubtless there are very many-but for beginners, and those having
but little experience in tobacco culture. He gives no advice which he has.
not followed in his own work, and recommends nothing which experience
has not commended as the best in theory tested by practice. Those who
possess a better knowledge of the subject, and whose practice is verified
by results, ought by all means to give the public the benefit of their
knowledge and experience. Planters will gladly welcome their teaching
and honor them for their service.
  But to return. Having put the land in nice "order," lay off the rows
with a shovel plow, three feet three inches apart, and follow, drilling along
the furrow some reliable tried fertilizer at the rate of some one hundred
and fifty to three hundred pounds per acre, according to the natural
strength of the soil and the quantity of manure previously applied. Then
follow with one horse turning ploughs, lapping four furrows on the ferti-
lized trench, and when finished in this manner your lot is ready to be
planted, when the beds have been "patted" with hoes, with "pats" two
feet ten inches apart, to mark points for setting the plants.
  New ground, or old field that has grown up and been cut down, will
require different preparation from old smooth land. But on the former
our best brights are raised. Any preparation that will put the soil in fine
condition, clear of roots, tufts and trash, is all that is required. Experi-
ence teaches, that if land is cut down two or three years previous to its



10

 

TO THE SALESROOM.



being prepared for tobacco, it greatly facilitates the preparation and helps
its fertility. Much of the vegetable material both in and upon the soil
rots, the roots break easily, and the soil is altogether lighter and finer.
  While it is economy to dispense with the hand hoe in making hills on
old land-the plough doing all the work as it ought, when it can be well
done yet, on stumpy, rooty and rough land, the hoe is indispensable in
the preparation of a hill, as it should be made to receive the plant. But
before the hills are made, it may be well, unless the soil is naturally rich,
and such is not often the case with soils best adapted to yellow tobacco, to
apply some fertilizing material to hasten forward the plants and mature
them properly and early. Here commercial fertilizers have done and are
doing their best work. Bulky, coarse manures often do more harm than
good on new and puffy soils. The smaller the bulk and the more con-
centrated the fertilizing elements, the more readily they are appropriated
and assimilated by the plants, if of the right material and in the most
available form. Nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash, lime and soda are
most necessary for the tobacco plant; and a fertilizer which supplies the
relative quantity of each will never fail to show good effects therefrom,
if the rainfall is sufficient to quicken their action.
  There are several brands of fertilizers manufactured specially for to-
bacco, differing in composition, price and merit; and after repeated expe-
riments with most if not all of the best, the author gives it as his decided
opinion, that for fine, bright, silky tobacco, nothing equals the Anchor
Brand Tobacco Fertilizer, prepared by the Southern Fertilizing Company,
Richmond, Va. And this opinion is based upon fourteen years trial, and
often in competition with the best of other brands on the market. It is
a tried and proved fertilizer, which the planter can use without the risk of
getting something unsuited to his crop; and therefore we can recommend
it with confidence.
  There are others possessing high merit, as we know from experience,
such as Excelsior, Star, Ober's, Zell's, etc., which will pay to use on to-
bacco, as perhaps on no other crop. A good article of any grade of to-
bacco requires high farming. Bear this in mind, and act accordingly.
  MODE OF APPLYING FERTILIZERS.-Planters differ in the manner of
applying fertilizers, whether in the hill, drill or broadcast. That the same
quantity will go further and produce larger results the first year for the
quantity used when applied in the hill or drill, is generally conceded. But
advocates for broadcasting claim that when the crop to which the fertilizer
is applied, is to be followed by another in quiok succession-to be sown
in wheat as soon as the tobacco is removed-then broadcasting is best, for
reasons which seem too apparent to need explanation.



11

 

TOBACCO, FROM THE SEED



  Having prepared the land for hilling, apply the fertilizer by which ever
mode the planter prefers, and in such quantity as the natural strength of
the soil indicates, laying off the rows three feet three inches apart, and
make the hills about two feet ten inches distant from centre to centre.
Mark the measure on the hoe handle, and require the hillers to apply it
frequently as a guide. The rows should be wider apart than the hills, to
,afford proper cultivation without breaking and bruising the plants at the
final ploughinig,-a matter of no small importance, as the least blemish
-on a fine leaf nearly destroys its value as a wrapper.
  PLANTING.-Having prepared the hills, you are ready to plant any time
after the first of May. Planting is often most effectually done when the
hills are being made in May, and the land is moist with the winter's sap,
by planting in the afternoon the hills made the same day. If properly
planted, very few of the plants will fail to live. Observe to draw the
plants one by one from the bed, and handle so as not to bruise them. It
is a waste of time and plants to set out very small 'plants, but wait until
they are of proper size-the largest leaves about two and a half to three
inches wide. Put a basket of plants in the hands of a boy or girl, who
drops a plant on each hill, dropping in one or two rows according to age
or expertness. The men follow, with each a planting peg made of hard
wood, six inches long, one and a quarter inch in diameter at large end,
and tapering to a point. Each planter takes a "hand-plant" to start with
(unless the dropper has learned to drop two plants on the first hill), and
pushing his planting peg some two inches into the hill, withdraws the peg,
inserts the plant, and by a dexterous movement of the peg and the knuck-
les of the left hand, closes the dirt gently but compactly around the roots.
He then picks up the plant on the hill as he moves forward, and by the
time he reaches the next hill has adjusted the plant in his hand to insert
into the hole in the next hill. Thus the " hand-plant" facilitates the work.
Try it, and you will be convinced. There is art in planting properly, as
is shown in the increased number of living monuments that test superior
work. But why enter into such minute details say some. That you may
start right, shun the errors of inexperience, and practice at the start the
best methods, as demonstrated by successful practice.
  If the soil is dry when the hills are made, then it will require a " sea-
son" for planting. The best come with showers. It is not well to plant
soon after a soaking rain, but wait until the land settles. If the plants are
good, seasons favorable, and the planting well done, very few will die, if
transplanted before the ioth of July. After that time all is uncertainty.
Hence the importance of getting a stand before that time.
  After planting over, it will be necessary to replant from time to time as



12

 

TO THE SALESROOM.



seasons occur, embracing every opportunity to fill up the missing hills..
If cut-worms are troublesome, hunt for and destroy every one as far as.
possible; for it is useless to put a plant in a hill where one of these pests-
has taken up quarters, and expect it to live and grow.
  CULTIVATING.-It is important to commence cultivation soon after
planting, to loosen the soil and start the plants growing. Just at this.
point many planters fail to do their duty, which no subsequent work can
atone for. Early, rapid and thorough cultivation is necessary to produce
first class goods. If the preparation has been thorough, thrice ploughing,
followed each time with the hand hoe, will suffice for the crop.
  For the first ploughing, no implement is better than the wing coulter,
the next best the cultivator. The second ploughing may be effectually
done with the turning plough or cultivator; if grassy, use the first. The
last ploughing is most effectually done with three furrows with the single
shovel-a furrow on each side, then splitting the middle with the third
and last furrow.
  Never "scrape down" tobacco with the hoe without putting back on
hill or bed as much dirt as is scraped down. This will prevent baking,
and save many plants, should a dry spell follow the hand hoe working.
  Any process which stirs the soil effectually and often and keeps the
plants free from grass and weeds, will constitute good cultivation, no mat-
ter how or with what implement done. Old land will require more work
in cultivation than new, and dark grades more than bright. Short sin-
gletrees should be used after the plants are half grown, to prevent tearing
and breaking the leaves.
  The yellow grades should be cleared of grass and weeds before the first
of August, and not ploughed thereafter; but the hoes may be used at any
time to clear out the crop till the leaves commence graining. The longer
tobacco is ploughed the later the plants will be in ripening, therefore the
importance of giving early and thorough cultivation. Any one who can
raise good cabbage ought to know how to cultivate tobacco, as the culti-
vation is very similar.
                       Priming and Topping.

  Under this head ,there is a wide difference of opinion. Breaking off
the small and inferior leaves of the plant near the ground is called "prim-
ing," which operation is done along with the "topping," if done at all.
There are advantages for and against priming, but all resort to topping-
plucking out the seed bud and adjacent small leaves with the thumb and
finger. Some contend that pulling off the lower leaves saps the plants
and [retards growth, if the weather is dry. That permitting the lower
leaves to remain on the stalk protects the upper ones from sand and grit,



13:

 

TOBACCO, FROM THE SEED



makes them cleaner and therefore more salable. On the other hand, it is
contended by some that by pulling off the lower leaves, which are gene-
rally useless, the remaining leaves receive more nutriment and contain
more wax, oil and gum. That the lower leaves harbor worms and make
the worming process more tedious.
   It is best to wait until a considerable number of plants begin to button
for seed before commencing to top. Topping should be the work of ex-
perienced and trusty hands-men who can top, leaving any required
number of leaves on a plant without counting. The secret of this-no
longer a secret to the initiated-is, that the topper soon learns to know
that counting the bottom leaf and the leaf that hangs over it in the third
tier going upward, makes nine leaves, including both top and bottom
leaves. Fixing this in his mind the topper has only to add to or deduct
from this index leaf marking nine, to leave any desired number of leaves
on each plant with certainty and without counting. Young man, if you
don't know how, get some old negro to show you. Topping you will
find is a slow business if you have to count the leaves on all the plants
topped. If the plants are not "primed" then the "bottom" leaf must be
fixed by the eye, looki