xt7b5m626j22 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7b5m626j22/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1939 journals kaes_circulars_003_340 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 340 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 340 1939 2014 true xt7b5m626j22 section xt7b5m626j22 E {
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UNIT IV E »   5
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CIRCULAR N O. 340 z 1 _g
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  UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY    
  COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE    
l Extension Division   ~  
` THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director    
`· i#v,··‘£
Lexington, Ky. gz} _V;, Q
lf- .  
V October, 1939    
J I
— s   if
, Publlslwd ill connection with the agricultural extention \\’0x‘k CHl`1'i€d OU by CO'    
Operation of the College of Agriculturm University of Kentucky, with thi? U· S· DE'    
aigttzlint DY Agriculture and distributed in furtherance oi the work provided f0l‘ ill l  
C Of Congress of May 8, 1914. 7
FI 1_  
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  ORGANIZATION OF THE CLOTHING PROGRAM
  LEADERSHIP. Before a clothing project may be organized
    in a community there must be at least hve girls between 10 and 15
    years of age who are interested in the project. lt is then necessary
  for the extension agent to help this group to find a leader. This
  leader must be an adult, an older club girl or a Utopia club girl.
  who is interested in the girls of her community, willing to devon
  sufficient time to this work to ensure successful completion and has
!·   a knowledge of clothing.
  It is essential to have the interest and cooperation of parents.
l ·l  This may be accomplished by personal visits by the leader or home
  demonstration agent, community meetings, and information on l-
  club work mailed directly to the parents. l@m`·
  PLACE OF MEETING. Often the school is the most central _ 2
  place of meeting, but it is usually more desirable to hold the pro mclu
j· ‘’‘`   ject lessons in homes where work tables and a sewing machine nrt
lif · r `lable.
  av ai ·
  FREQUENCY OF MEETINGS. At least two meetings eadl
  month should be held. It may be that more than twelve meeting~
  will be required. The length of each meeting will largely determint
 ;_.  the number necessary for satisfactory results. Club members mm
  prefer to meet for a short time once a week.
  j RECORDS. Each girl is to do her own sewing and keep lllt‘
  Y clothing record and account. The project captain is to keep il
    record of the attendance. She should also record special activi1i<‘*
  l in which the group takes part.
  DEMONSTRATIONS. It is not enough for a 4-H club girl io 3
  know how to do things herself. Often she is called upon to t<3{1*l` ,
  in 4-H Club Work.
      Being able tt) judge (toinplele l>Ullll`
  as well as individual garments is a real asset in the selection  
  lllilkiflg of ClOLl1CS. A girl learns to consider each garment lll l"‘f
  tion to the whole. judging work is included in the suggCSi€(l Pl"
  gf21nlS. Kentucky Extension Circular 280, Home EconoiniC5 _ll"l$j E
t i? ing, should be used by every 4-H club girl as it ebntains thC >¢""‘ and
C"  cards and terminology used in judging and is a guide to knovvl€ i ·
1 l  
Circular N0. 340   3   E
nizcd j t $ ‘ ‘
nd 18   E, E
mn CLOTHING PROJECT FOR 4-H CLUBS ~   V 5
TP? Unit IV — The 4-H Girl’s Street or   i-- ‘  
gn`. g 5  
gw Travel Costume ; 3. i
l lm By EDITH LACY and ANITA BURNAM   1  
é · r i
. —·—‘ E “ i *1
`€lll>. I 1 .1
mm PROJECT REQUIREMENTS 1   _  
1 on l. Plan a clothing budget and keep a clothing account for the   1  
l'€21l`. 2 |  
mm] 2. Plan a complete outfit suitable for street or travel. This to   g E 1
Pm include: i [ “  
3 mt H- Taking an inventory of the wardrobe. I   A  
b. Making a tailored or semi-tailored dress or suit. { i all 
each c. Making one or more undergarments to be worn with this     E
mw Costume and selecting other undergarments needed to l   g__. g
ming COlUPl@t€ if- 7    
Hm d- Sélecting or making the hat_   ’rE’ {
‘. . . ` . = »— t
6- Selecting or making other accessories needed to complete .   2**
i my fll€ ensemble. One accessory is to be made; this may be V-  j
up li hat, purse, gloves, belt, scarf or handkerchief. y .lQ;?i;·  
imo i· Selecting shoes and hose. l    
. .24, 4
At least three of the garments and one accessory in the Olltlif j `,E;»·'rj;’j
ri U, im? to be made by the gir]_ ii 
em]; 3· ludgff tailored garments and costumes and take part in the  
Ning °°“mY €l0thing judging contest, if there is one. ·    
km. 4· Exhibit the outfit in the county style dress revue OT fair.  
star!   {Qi  
_ DISTINCTION IN DRESS _A   5:;
lUIl* J gv,  
“ACCOmplishedP She says not; but who can tell.  
uhh Shi? does some simple things and does them well.  
wl] She walks well, Stands well, sits well — things so rare  
lm. T0 PT9·i$€ HS they deserve I hardly dare!  
Im,. Fw d1‘€SS S0 well; she does what few can do,  
ud_,_ FOYQHS what she has on; and so should you." Q`,  
Um 1 fm`l' girl Wants to be attractive and individual in appearance  
rl · · . . . . . °‘ ',·· t.
,d,,(i 1118 “<¤¤l;*$;· MAY ‘   r_ - _ ,
11.  ‘ 11 .·»;7*’ mw z >: .=i>.# »»·’ :1**%,.41:5%;  5 V wood pattern hues and »—» ~»¤—       ii; t Q;   t I . »; c p •,   I I i
jlesign.   V ii;      ._ me;  ` § V — » A ;   V - _   , 5 I Q
I { ’_   kggy  .     fw, * _\.,» e  ·.   ,     `*
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—;— own · `i2*`»f°?;.   »   L ,   `°°‘i**`e   ’==,‘ M — , g ; · -;
¤<* <*¤·       .,.,        ‘·,,.    »»;  ‘‘‘_   ¤   *  
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- "·~V ”~¤‘ f‘°='  ‘.·-· ·     V     · ·:
,g me         ·’       ·   ·
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[to bt     gy; .€*r·i;<<  lrt   »· 1 , .4
,g_,¤;$<.;§;: _.HVLs,,§;{·s·`· 3. grr; L 1**- ,’!•-_», sl   ,   -y
)dal€  ,»  ·   O  It   2
Cheme ‘ —·’t=’i j<’¤·»`¤»»..¤_'4~»—§{qjg,,l;g~i§ 12-},Lg:i,·;$v     
t" ··*
whe F , ,  
*6* d 0** ECONOMY IN Cggmgs;   il,
¤ ll ‘ f   .
-5 H *— Choose clonblednty garments. {
Vur 0 , . - _ . . ,
[ lo " ·*‘***** fads in fashion -— they date a costumé.   {
** . _ .;j
"· *****`¤ HH garments and accessories harmonize with GHC *785** Q 5
color.
  Ziff
 

 1 l
  6 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 340
y .
    4. Assemble garments and accessories which produce a pleasing PER
  I and appropriate e11se1nble.
    5. Remodel garme11ts of good fabric.
    THE CLOTHING BUDGET
l.   The clothing inventory and clothing account are the best basis lllfil
  for the planning of future expenditures. The clothing inventon
  l, gives a practical picture of the entire wardrobe, and it is from this
  picture that one’s needs are revealed. The figures from the past
  Sy  yearsl accounts help to determine the amount of money that new
L  articles may cost and the amount to spend in one year’s time, lbl 1
gv nl  clothes. The longer the clothing account is kept the 1nore valuable
  it becomes. The girl will need to know what amount of 1]l()IiCl l
  she will have available to meet her clothing needs. It may lit
i ·i‘V · y difficult to detern1ine just how much she should spend and still bt l`ll‘?t
  lair to the other members of her family, but once this is (l€L€1`lililiC(l- l
l.  l careful planning and buying will make 11er money go farther. .·\ Sll’l
  girlls needs 1nust be distinguished from her clothing desires. ll l
  there is insufficient money for all her needs then the most pressing _ l
  ones HIUSK be hlled first. Remember a budget is nothing more lllfill l‘l’l
  'i`·` a plan for spending a dehnite amount of money wisely. The ll0ll0\\`·
  ing results may be achieved by budgeting ones clothing: l
  l l. More thought and care will be used in remodeling ga1‘lll€¤f* l
    so that they can fill a dehnite plan in the wardrobe. l
  `—.K   2. Money will be apportioned for all needs instead of spending (
  l it all for dresses as some girls do, leaving nothing for underweaf wd l
  ll accessories.
{  3. To know values and the advantage of buying good qL121li[)'·
  4. To avoid extremes in fashion. _
 ly 5. To alternate purchase of large expense items, as the pufdlllll LIN
 ll of a winter coat this year and none next year. Next year plan to but  
  H spring Coat. This will help to keep the wardrobe up to d21€€· ' I
  6. A color SChelTle can be more definitely followed and l“€5Ulf lll XM
  1nore becoming ensembles. R I
  MY IDEAL COSTUME 1
  If my costume is going to be distinctive, practical a11€l"flll` l
  Hlify, ITIY iigllfe, llly C(')l()l`i]lg, and [hen Choose 3 e0$tLl1T1€ llllllfll
 ll b1‘iU{I,S OUK my good features and minimizes [hg imattracti\‘€ One" l
yogi Check the iinportant facts il] following blanks:
 

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Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs, Unit IV 7   A  
ming PERSONALITY. l Z A  
Serious ...... Gay ...... Deniure ...... Vivacious ...,..      
Boyish ...... Straight forward ...... Dainty ......   l ‘  
Feminine ...... Athletic ...... Dramatic ......        
bash Ficumz. ; 1  
·nto1·1 Height and size: 4 ·    
;1 this Tall, slender ...... uiedium ...... stout .....,      
{ pw Average, slender ...... medium ...... stout ,_.,,, § _A .    
; new Short, slender ...... medium ...... stout _.____      
e, lbr Shape;      
ugrblt R0ul1Cl ...... Flat ....,. Angular _,___, y url
101101 Carriage; 1 z il
ry bt Awkward ...... Graceful ......   gi Q
in be HEAD. S _,I‘ ‘  
1jHetl_ Sluall ...... Large ...... ln good proportion ......     A _=l
,11 _1 Sl-min; or FACE. E   _f_*°A;‘
iS_ {1 Square ...... Round ...,.. Oval ...... Long ......      
gggiug Heart shaped ...... é  QQ:
[hm, (l0Lo1uNt;, l Tiff"  
»ll0w— EYES Hair Cont/2/exion   J '·’“  
Light .......... Light brown ..... Skin      
Dems l)?u`l< ........... Dark brown ...... [air ...........t    
Blue ....... , , _ , Auburn .,_._,.... dark ...........      
rding CNY ··.·.... . . . Colden .....,..... sallow ..........        
wml Hazel ......1.,. Black ............ Cheeks and lips -   `r4· ;  
-··-- · .... . ..... . ,................ yellow red ......    
ty, .................. purple red ......  
red ...,........   V  
ghasc A Tll€l`€l`01`e when choosing n1y clothes I will need to emphasizei `  
) bw lrIN1;s  
Lung -..... straight ...... curved ...... crosswise ......      
yh in houflant ______ it  
M*\"`l‘YRl»\I.S, Tnxrumg Ann \V121GHT  
R"Ҥ`h -..... shiny ...... dull ..,... still ...... thin ......  
V m€dlllIll .,,__ _ hggvy ______  
*6** ‘·‘"·<>¤S  
mu Vfiluc. dark ..i,,. medium ...... light ......  
"$‘?“` l'“€uSilv, very bright _,___, bright ...... dull ......  
vhlch VCYY §`I`?`l)’€(Zl ......  
mei, Hm @@011 ..... . yellow green ,..... blue green ...·».  l'  
blue ---·. . green blue ...... purple blue ...»..  
Y€ll0w ...1. , Orange Or red yellow __,,.. gfeell yellow --·-—·  
 

 r
  S [{021/uc/cy Extension Circular N0. 340
  I (lotok COMIiINA'l`I()NS rrmr Am; Bmeommo
    ...............,.. . ............,.... . ..............   ig [;
    ................., . ................. . ..............   Mm
    ln Cl·lUOSlNG ro Surr Pl·`RSONALl'l`Y Tniesu Poixrs May rn; or l—l1·11.1· httir
  l. The tall forceful girl wears garments direct in line, sharp in U`l><’l
  l  color contrasts, crisp in texture, substantial looking and com UW
l Q fortable. {llc I
{   2. The small, dainty, feminine type wears soft, line material~ NWI
l·  with full skirts, rullles, lace and crepy, dainty materials. l
  Fi. The vivacious, lively type can wear striking colors, plaitlv llml
  stripes and styles with dash and snap. WK
¤—§"  ·l. The quiet, demure type looks best in quaint lines and put- ‘“l‘l`
    terns, English prints and pastel tones. im]
  5. The dignihed girl should wear simple, well-cut, striking gztr Wl
  ments with a few distinguishing touches.  
lj   CHOOSING THE PATTERN AND MATERIA'L FOR THE COSTUME I
  [Milam. Before selecting the pattern study current styles. Ltwl
  at pictures in the latest style books and fashion magazines. \'i~i¤ V l`
lg .z ready-to-wear stores and observe the costumes that are good in *
  1 Simple, well-cut garments of good materials make a stylish fotmtlit [;l"“
    tion costume; one that can be varied by a change of access01‘i€>· (OCS
    making it suitable for many occasions. Also keep in mind that CN· mm]
  l tremes in design make your costume expensive, as it may not bu ‘h"U
  good for more than one season. Do not be led astray by the fa¤l*` ll Iiruf
  chance to handle other materials than cotton. tho linens or Comml msm
  may be used if they ht ones needs. Cheap materials. that is fllmll Irl
  lll illlillll}'. 2ll` 1`Cniember when making a wool outht.  
l' (;h°"‘“ H ($‘m$€l`\`i1li\‘e but up-to-1lieminnte Style    
it Ee

 z
  IU Keulttc/cy ljxtwzsiou Circular No. 340
  i 2. The fabric should be good quality, firm and sturdy.
  } 3. The color of the suit or coat provides the dominant coloi M
l   IIOLC of your wardrobe. U5
    4. The effect of the entire ensemble, lrom hat to shoes, is the IO'
  secret of the well-dressed appearance of the girl. lh
  5. The economy of a dress is determined by the relation el its .1]
   i cost to the number of times it is worn with satisfaction. lh
  6. Stitches on hems and facings should not show. U:
fil  7. Pressing is the big secret of the tailor»made appearance. A HC
li   rule followed by tailors is to "press as you sew." U1.
  8. Adequate equipment for pressing woolen garments includes pr
  a firm, well—padded ironing board, a piece of woolen material cn
l ·i·_   pinned over the cover, a sleeve roll, and a tailor’s cushion.
  9. A press block of heavy wood for steam-pressing woolens help
  to preserve the sharp, neat edges and smooth seams, without the sic
  appearance of hard iron pressing. JO
  10. The use of a wool press-cloth, when pressing is to be done 011 ml
  the right side of the garment, aids in lifting the nap of the fabric. ml
  ll. To shrink fullness out of the top of a sleeve or a hem, plaC<"il W
  damp cloth next to the wool; handle the iron lightly so as to ziwiil bg
  l marking the material while steaming and shaping. Use the prev
    block to hold the fabric in shape while drying. mi
    HOW TO ADD PROFESSIONAL TOUCHES
  1 Most woolen fabrics should be shrunk before cutting. This will
  be done at lihe laundry or at home. The home method is to clip {llc
  Selvages, lay cloth full width, face down on a table and cover willl il lu
  damp cloth. Roll together and let stand for several hours. Thfll lh
  open and press on back of fabric, using pressing cloth. Lili ill"]
  rather than running it along thc surface. Press until almost ill`}- "`l
  Pin pattern on carefully, starting the pinning at fold <>1`*"‘ ‘l"
  thread of goods and then smoothing (JUL and pinning at ilie cont in
  ers. (Jut with long, even strokes. \~\t’atcli for the grain ol, llw §%*"“l` '“
  and place PHKICYII 21CCO1`Clif1gly, Allow gnlplg material fOl` Smlll he
  hnish.
  Pin llOlCllCS together at intervals, along seam lines. .i\l'l€1"`i’lfl  
  flil Pillllillg C21Sil1g in any fullness, l)aste_ l—l()l(l fullness si(lC lfllfful ll
  }‘0ll when basting. For example, the slionlder seam of the llilff l` lll
  U$U3ll}’ il   longer lllall l`l`()]][_ SO l]()l(l l)[[Cl{ [()\\'§]l`(l YOU “'ll°`ll (lll
  pinning and basting this sean; iii
 

 E f
: 3 ‘ .
Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs, Unit IV ll   i  
  A ` i
ljelore starting any stitching, test the 1ll3.Cl1l1lC stitch and tension   . T ·‘  
Colm on a double thickness ol material stitching with the thread to be   i ~ f
used. Handle work as carefully and lightly as possible, if it is to     ·  
is [hc look new when completed. Working at a table helps to accomplish      
this. L if i°
. Careful ressin · as one sews, marks the work of a rofessional.      
ol its . . . . . P * l
lest iron on a scrap of the material, as too hot an iron may ruin 1 l g
the garment. Rayon and wool require a moderate to a cool iron. l ‘ l  
Use pressing cloth and press on the wrong side. Some material may ‘ l l {
?€· A need a damp cloth but too much moisture may stiifen or spot silks     i  
or other fabrics. ln pressing seams and hems avoid too hard dry { '  
zludes pressing as this may make marks on the right side. Never press wool   Q  
[
terinl entirely dry. Most seams are pressed open. l . l
. . . ‘ l
Fit garment right side out.   j ‘  
help, Stitch seams, Finish openings, make collar finish, then put in l    
. . . t x
it the sleeves. Do not put cui’r hnish on sleeves until they have been    
joined in armhole. The hem is the last thing to be done on a gar- ! _,   ”
_ _ V V .
l ment. Allow bias-cut arments to han · on han er for a dai before   V. .
ut on S 8 g 5 A __ _1
_· making the hem I l~   ‘l
nc. . , g
MCM Simplicity in details makes for an expensive-looking, fashion-    
( i , I V .  
V. right tarment. "loo much decoration mai chea en an otherwise ‘ M ga
axotll I _[ 1 l P . g   V ~
)C'lll[1 u ‘t . ‘ ¥ · ' .;
Pm · I cos ume I • _ · y   _ _
Learn ood tailorin · thru stud t ol clothin booklets and ’;   =
_ E l g , ,  
magazines and study of ready—made garments. R     at
le ‘``- it
i Hwy PRINCIPLES OF DRESS DESIGN   _ql;"__{1f_
i · - . . . . . . = i   ’*
pthc Certain art principles can be applied in the selection ol eos- l lays
. , is . . . i .t~t··; ‘
yttltil l-UINCS. lliese are proportion, dominant interest, balance and l`lly'· t  _,;’1  
nin lim l »    
li"'] PW/)r>1‘li0r1 means a pleasing relationship of all parts of the ~  
`Y- “`ll0lC and to one another, This may be obtained by planning thc   '    
*I` UH (h`C“$ HS él Whole and then ereating the parts within and in l`Cl?1KiOU l  .3, il
Com lll lllC nlain idea, That is, deeitle on the general style of ClI‘eSS which   ·  
;0¤>ll211`$·  
sent belts. pockets, em  
» . , . ] ·Zi°';Y°
_ D”'l7l77!171£ ll][Ql`(_§$l requires that every design l1a\'C 3 C€Ill€l` Ul fiief  
`Hlik" i~ . _ · . . ( . . · i ';L,,}.‘T‘;
( 1 l;llUC$[ 01 21 1)l"1I]C11)Q]l Part to whteh evervthlng else IS Slll)O1`d1D3l€(l·   ff]
an ` . , - . ’ . . 4:-3- .·y»
llki 1hClC[OlC, ll] planning a Costume, plan this center of IUKCTCSK $0    
il H » lll all€llllOn may be drawn to ones best feature. FOI` CX3.lTl])lC, ii ~i’yQLQ  
.'ll` · - , _ - . :  
` Ulm has 3 l)€l(`C l)Cl.\\‘CCll Ll1C stitches should be twice the depth of the Sillfll mic
  This seam is used on fabrics that fray mode;~;tte1y_ The blzmll" Sm
  S[iLCl1 ll11l}' l>C uSC(l instead Of the ()\'Cl`CQl$[l]]g_ This i5 ]]lO1`€ 21lU'i“`
  tive and better adapted to loosely woven fabrics.
  Edges Bound. Bind edges of a plain seam with ribbon scam billd _ ~
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y be M is bulky and should not be used. l 7  
[ This seam finish is used for heavy      
ned ` fabrics that fray easily. lt is par- 4   ‘  
mm i·;Ajj_ _______ i ticularly good on coats or jackets     ·  
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Hm .   where the finish shows. j § *
[regs `'`` ` '``'_”*`` ' _```   Edges Stitched. Machine stitch      
likc   each side, M1 to M2 inch from the      
de seam stitching. Trim fairly close   _ y    
ml} to edge stitching and press open l   ,
_ be flat. This is flat and durable for     ·  
Pfam S”m· b°““d Edges- firmly woven fabrics.    
dc- LAPPED SEAMS FOR TAILORED GARMENTS   l
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me i()I)·S[l[(jilC(l lapped seams are an effective means ol accenting   3  
the seam line and giving Hnish to a tailored garment. Turn under { ‘*  
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