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MISSISSIPPI
A A GUIDE TO THE MAGNOLIA STATE
J f Compiled and Written [pr the Federal Writers’ Przyleot
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i AMERICAN GUIDE SERIES
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FOURTH PRINTING JUNE
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Foreword
HERE is a book which takes us vividly into the South in the first period
AY of its greatness and brings us by natural steps up to the contemporary scene
Q where a new South is in the making. To the visitor Mississippi offers mod-
ern methods of agriculture in the northern Delta region, a playground on
g the Gulf Coast, and some of the finest examples of old plantation archi-
tecture in Natchez and its other historic towns. This Guide, with its charm,
its occasional irony, and its comprehensiveness, could have been written
2% only from self-knowledge and from a knowledge of modern America. It
is the modest yet proud statement of their accomplishments by the people
of this Gulf State.
gg This volume is one of the American Guide Series, which, when com-
_. plete, will cover the forty-eight States and several hundred communities, as
. 33:
well as Alaska, Puerto Rico, and Havraii. With each new volume that
`¤ leaves the press a new trait is added to the portrait of America today. -
, i . Adminirlmtar
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WORKS PROGRESS ADMINISTRATION _
. . F
gg HARRY L. HOPKINS, Administrator P
ELLEN S. WOODWARD, Assistant Administrator L
HENRY G. ALSBERG, Director if Federal Writers’ Project L
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.s Contents
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FOREWORD, By Harry L. Hopkins, Administrator
,
PREFACE, By the State Director and State Editor V
=§s§
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi
LIST OF MAPS xv
NOTATIONS ON THE USE OF THE BOOK xvii
L; ES
I GENERAL INFORMATION xix
CALENDAR OF EVENTS xxiii
y , I. Afzsszsszppzs The General Background
»w MISSISSIPPI PAST AND PRESENT
A What Is Mississippi? 5
‘ . HIE
White Folkways 8
fg!
a Negro Folkways 22
1 *i=§;
BEFORE THE \`>(’HITE MAN CAME
Ei?
Natural Setting 31
A Archeology and Indians 45
‘ THE STATE IN THE MAKING
An Outline of Four Centuries 60
Transportation 79
[ . Agriculture 92
` {Qi?
· Industry and Commerce 106
Religion 1 12 g.
. T1
Education 113
The Press 138
I THE CREATIVE EFFORT
r s an et ers 134 gi
A r d I. r ··i
·a
y Architecture 143
I Music 157 f
viii LONTENTS
g ·
A 11. Main Street and Courthouse Square [3
(CITY AND T0wN DESCRIPTIONS AND CITY TOURS)
lei .4
fi Biloxi 165 E;]
Columbus 179 gl
Greenwood 1 89
Gulfport 194
Holly Springs 200
fr- ]ackson 208
Laurel 222
Meridian 227
‘ Natchez 2 3 3
Oxford 254
° Tupelo . 26}
4 Vicksburg 266
III. Tours
TOUR 1 (Mobile, Ala.)-Biloxi—Gulfport-
g (New Orleans, La.). [U.S. 90] 285
Q 1A Gulfport to Ship Island 303
2 (Livingston, Ala.)-Meridian—]ackson—
Vicksburg—(Monroe, La.), [U.S. 80] 304
3 (Memphis, Tenn.)—Clarksdale—Vicksburg—
Natchez—(Baton Rouge, La.), [U.S. 61]
Section a. Tennessee Line to Vicksburg 315
Section b. Vicksburg to Louisiana Line 324
BA Clarksdale—Greenville—Rolling Fork. [STATE 1] 346
BB Woodville—Fort Adams, Fort Adams Road 358
;l * r_>v
4 (]ackson, Tenn.)—Corinth-Tupel0—Colurnbus-
Meridian—\Waynesboro—(Mobile, Ala.), [U.S. 45] 361
4A Shannon-West Point—Macon. [STATE 23, STATE 25] 373
4B Shuqualak—Meridian. [STATE 59] 377
ha ii?
I? coNr12Nrs ix F P
Q Mem his, Tenn. -Grenada- ackson—Br0okhaven- = Z
e 5 P X
McComb-(New Orleans, La.). [U.S. 51]
Section a. Tennessee Line to ]ackson 380
Section b. ]ackson to Louisiana Line 391
6 (Tuscaloosa, Ala.)—Columbus—\X/inona—Greenwood—
Greenville—(Lake Village, Ark,). [U.S. 82] 397
7 Clarksdale—Indianola-Yazoo City—]ackson-
Hattiesburg—Gulfport. [us. 49, U.s. 49w]
Section a. Clarksdale to ]ackson 406
Section b. ]ackson to Gulfport 414
7A Tutwiler-Greenwood-Lexington—
Pickens. {us. 4912, s·rATE I2] 420
8 (Livingston, Ala.)—Meridian-Laurel—Hattiesburg—
Picayune—Santa Rosa—(New Orleans, La,). [U.S. 11] 423
9 (Hamilton, Ala.)—Tupelo-New Albany-
{ Holly Springs—(Memphis, Tenn,). [U.S. 78] 434-
10 (Florence, Ala.)—Iuka—Corinth—Walnut—
Slayclen—(Mernphis, Tenn.), [U.S. 72] 441
1 1 W/aynesboro—Laurel—Brookhaven—
\Washington—(Ferraclay, La.), [U.s. 84] 447
_l~ 12 (Bolivar, Tenn.)—Pontotoc-Bay Springs—Laurel—
7 IQ Lucedale-(Mobile, Ala.). [STATE 15] 456
12A Springville—Calhoun City—Ackerman. [snare 9] 471
L 13 junction with STATE 63—Hattiesburg—-Columbia-
McComb—\Y/oodville. {sure 24] 475
r JE
14 (\Y7infield, Ala.)—Amory-Tupelo—Oxford—
Clarksdale. [sure 6] 484
i 15 Waynesboro—Leakesville—Lucedale—
I gf Moss Point. [sure 63] 490
5 1 6 Vaiden—Kosciusko-Carth a ge—Ralei gh-
A ‘ ]unction with U.s. 84. [s·rATE 55] 493 ;_
3 17 (Pickwick, Tenn.)-Iuka—Fulton—Amory-
‘ junction with u.s. 45. [STATE 25] 500
l CHRONOLOGY 509
3 BIBLIOGRAPHY 523
7 INDEX 531
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Illustrzmons
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MISSISSIPPI RIVER FROM NATcHEz BLuEEs PAGE 4~—5
Photograph hy Earl M. Norman
GATHERING 1*011 A POLITICAL RALLY 9
V; Photograph hy Eudora IVelty
A C0UNT1E1< 23 gg.
Photograph hy Willa johrzxorz ·
r. HOLT C0LL1E11 25
Y Photograph hy IVilla johnmn
g MAGNOLIA G11AND1EL01xA; THE STATE FLOWER 32
Photograph hy E. E. johnson
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YUccA PLANT, OR USPANISH BAYONETH 41
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton
P0RTER’s FLEET PASSING THE CONFEDERATE BATTERIES AT
V1c1 `-' __"" I` ` aaaa A EAEA ~ —~;¥~ 51 *
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xii ILLUSTRATIONS
MELROSE, NEAR NATc1~1Ez 150 1;
Photograph hy R. I. Bostwick g f
·E STAIRWAY AT COTTAGE GARDEN, NATCHEZ 154 1 } IN
. Photograph by Earl M. Norman E
OYSTER FLEET, B1L0x1 167 E — V
Photograph hy Anthony V. Raguyin , ‘
_1:` BENAcm AVENUE, BILOXI 171 Q I D
I Photograph by IV. A. Ruxxell '
jj? LIGHTHOUSE, BILOXI 174 E
Photograph by Gene Holcomh
A SOUTHERN PLANTER HOME, BILOXI 177 C
Photograph from Pictorial Archive: of Early American Architecture w
· Library of Congrexs
CLOCK TOWER, MISSISSIPPI STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN, . ;,; E
` COLUMBUS 185 jg
Photograph by O. N. Pruitt ]¥
WOODWARD I-IOUsE, COLUMBUS 188 fi
. Photograph hy O. N. Pruitt
; LOADING BALES OF COTTON, GULFPORT 195 I
Photograph hy Ed Lipxcomb
MUNICIPAL GARDEN AND Civic CENTER, JACKSON 210 I
Photograph hy H. R. Hiatt
NEW CAPITOL, JACKSON 212 Fl
§ Photograph hy H. R. Hiatt
V
OLD CAPITOL, JACKSON 215 I
§Q Photograph by H. R. Hiatt
MANSHIP HOME, JACKSON 219 I
. Photograph hy Gene Holcomb
; GOVERNORIS MANSION, JACKSON 221 il ’]
Photograph hy H. R. Hiatt ji
,h PUL1¤w00D READY FOR PROCESSING, LAUREL »224 1*
{ ; Photograph by IV. Lincoln Highton
I ART MUSEUM AND LIBRARY, LAUREL 226 'J
Photograph by IV. Lincoln Highton
TEXTILE MILL, MERLDIAN 229 it T
I` Photograph by jamex A. Butter;
CONTI H0UsE, NATCHEZ 242 T
1 Photograph hy Mary Ethel Dixmuhes
CONNELLY,S TAVERN, NATCHEZ 245 T
‘ _ Photograph by Earl M. Norman
ARLINGTON, NATCHEZ 251 I
. Photograph hy Earl M. Norman
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_; ILLUSTRATIONS xiii
:· HOME OF WILLIAM FAULKNER, OXFORD 257 I ;
· ` Photograph by Willa ]ohn.von ;
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I MISSISSIPPI MONUMENT, VICKSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK 270
Photograph from National Park Service
* WARREN COUNTY COURTHOUSE, VICKSBURG 274
Photograph hy ]ame1 A. Butter:
MGNUTT HOME, VICKSBURG 278
Photograph hy ]ameJ A. Butter:
BOAT BUILDING, PASCAGOULA 288
Photograph by Anthony V. Raguxin
OLD SPANISH FORT, PASCAGOULA 289
Photograph from Micxiuippi Atlvertixing _Cornmi.r;ion
_ BEAUVOIR, HOME OF JEFFERSON DAVIS, NEAR BILOXI 293
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton
PIRATE’S HOUsE, WAVELAND 301
Photograph from Pictorial Archive; of Early American Architecture
Library of Congrexx
HIGHWAY THROUGH LOESS BLUFFS TO VICKSBURG 314
Photograph hy IV. A. Ruuell
ip RUINS OF WINDSOR, NEAR PORT GIBSON 329
f Photograph hy Earl M. Norman
THE BURR OAKS, JEFFERSON COLLEGE CAMPUS, WASHINGTON 334
Photograph by Earl M. Norman
DYEVEREUX, NEAR NATCHEZ 337
’, Photograph by Earl M. Norman
LINDEN, NEAR NATCHEZ 339
Photograph by Earl M. Norman
E; TAKING COTTON TO THE GIN 347
Photograph from Roxe Seed Company, Clarhxdale
: MOONLIGHT ON LAKE WASHINGTON, ELKLAND 355
Photograph by IVilla fohnxon
I fl
; gy TAKING THE QUEEN BEE 376
Photograph by Ed Lipxcomh
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> 4 THE COUNTY AGENT VISITS 387
Photograph from U. S. Department of Agriculture §
g TOMBIGBEE RIVER BRIDGE, COLUMBUS 398
9, Photograph hy O. N. Pruitt G
5 Tw1N TOWERS, MISSISSIPPI STATE COLLEGE, STARKVILLE 399
Photograph by ]. M. Pruitt
1 MALMAISON, NORTH CARROLLTON 404
42 Photograph from National Park Service gg
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xiv ILLUSTRATIONS
CULTIVATING A FIELD OF YOUNG COTTON 411 e <
Photograph from Cate Tractor Company `,·
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LONGLEAF P1NEs 415 _ _
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton QI
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SECOND-GROWTH PINES 424
Photograph by IV. Lincoln Highton
GATHERING PECANS 420
Photograph hy Gene Holcomb P
A CABIN IN THE COTTON 445 (
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton
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A ONE-MULE-POWER CANE PRESS 449
is Photograph hy Entlora IVelty F
COVERED GRAVES IN A COUNTRY CHURCHYARD 451 .1
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton
A HARDWOOD SAWMILL 457 I
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton P
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CHOCTAW HANDIcRAET, INDIAN AGENCY, PHILADELPHIA 465
IA Photograph hy IVilla _/ohnxon (
I HMZISSISSIPPI CH0cTAw" 466 j
Photograph hy A. C. Hector
A YOUNG CHOCTAW 467 A
Photograph hy A. C. Hector (
BUILDING A TERRACE TO CONTROL EROSION 489
Photograph from U. S. Department of Agriculture I
g LONGLEAF PINE TAPPED FOR TURPENTINE 491 I
’ Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton
5; THE CARDER 501 I
Photograph hy Mary Ethel Ditmtthet ‘ _
X BOY, BRDDM, AND BUTTERBEANS 504 I.
Photograph hy IV. Lincoln Highton ‘
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KEY TO MISSISSIPPI T0URs front end paper gg;
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GI;0I.0GIGAI. 1"ORMATIONS, MINERAL DEI¤0sITs, AND
TILIBER RESOURCES Page 36
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3; RECREATION AREAS 44
gz THE INDIANS IN MISSISSIPPI 48
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6; TERRITORIAI. AcQUIsITI0Ns: 1801-1832 62
A/IISSISSIPPI IN 1817 68
‘; COUNTIES OF MISSISSIPPI 78
TRANsp0RTAII0N 83
85
AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES 97
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’ l COLUMBUS 180 and 181 gg;
—:T HOI.I.Y SPRINGS 202
4E NATCHEZ 234 and 235
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General Inforrnauon
Railroads: Illinois Central System (Illinois Central, Gulf & Ship Island,
Yazoo & Mississippi Valley) ; Southern Railway System (New Orleans &
Northeastern, Southern, Alabama & Great Southern); Mobile & Ohio;
IQ Gulf, Mobile & Northern; St. Louis-San Francisco (Frisco); Mississippi
Central; Columbus & Greenville. Lines of the IC System run N. and S.,
E. and W. The GM&N and the M&O run N. and S. The Southern System
runs diagonally across the State from Alabama to Louisiana. Other lines
form connections with the trunk lines.
l Higbzvay.r.· Network of paved roads and many roads in process of paving.
No border inspection.
Qt Bu; Liner: Tri—State Transit; Teche-Greyhound and affiliated lines; Mag-
nolia; Dixie Coaches; Oliver Coach Lines; Delta Transportation Co.;
Varnado; White Eagle; Bracy; Dunlap; Dixie Greyhound; Gulf Trans-
port Co.
IWa!erwayr.· Inland Waterways Corporation; Mississippi Valley Barge
Lines; New Orleans & Vicksburg Packet Co.; Valley Line. Steam ferry
service at Dundee, Friar Point, Greenville, Vicksburg, and Natchez. Port
' of Gulfport on the Gulf of Mexico.
Yi Airlixzers Chicago & Southern (New Orleans to Chicago) stops at ]ackson. '
Delta Line (Charleston to Dallas) stops at ]ackson and Meridian. V
Trafr Regzzlatiaizrs No parking on bridges or roadways; speed limit on
highways 50 m.p.h., ro m.p.h. when passing schools and churches, in
cities 20-50 m.p.h. No racing or shooting on highways, no sirens, cutouts
must be muffled within certain limits. School busses not to be passed when
halted. 3
Armzymzodationx In cities most hostelries built or renovated since 1928,
Q ample facilities. ]ackson crowded during conventions and State Fair Week
, in October, Natchez during spring Pilgrimage, and Gulf Coast during
.t winter and summer seasons. In the rural sections tourist camps, new for
if the most part since new concrete highways have been constructed, are at {5
strategic points near towns. Camping facilities in national forests and
State parks. _,
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I xx GENERAL INFORMATION j
Climate and Equipment: ln summer, which comes early and lingers late, l y m
light clothing is necessary, though nights in Delta and Coastal Plain will J ] T
be cool in early summer and latter part of August. Topcoat usually sufli- rc
cient in winter, with coatless Christmas not uncommon. For the hiker, 7
hunter, swimmer, or picknicker, equipment may be obtained near most U
recreational centers. . 8}
Fish and Game Laws: Game fish, bass, trout, crappie, pike, and sunfish
may be taken at any season. Limit of 25 of any species per day; bass not N
under 10 in.; sunfish not under 5 in. Illegal to sell game fish or to take by tz
explosives, chemicals, or to handgrab. Non-resident annual license, $5.25; X ; tl
10-day license, $1.50; 3-day license, $1.25; obtained at sheriifs office or O
from State game wardens. f; IN
Hunting Regzzlatimzs: Open season for squirrels, Oct. 1 to Dec. 31; opos- b
sum, Oct. 1 to ]an. 31; rabbits (gun) Nov. 20 to jan. 31, without gun, f.
all year; fox, open year round, may be taken with hounds only. Deer, C
. closed in most counties, limited in others (obtain bulletin from State com- d
_ mission); bear, closed; quail, Dec. IO to Feb. 22; turkey, April 1 to fl
April 20, closed in northern Supreme Court district; ducks, geese, and 1
brant, Nov. 27 to Dec. 26; rails (except coot), Sept. 1 to Nov. 30; wood- 2
cock, Dec. 1 to Dec. 31; coot and snipe, Nov. 27 to Dec. 26; doves, Sept.
I5 to Oct. 1 and Nov. 20 to ]an. 15. No open season on wood-duck, buf-
flehead duck, ruddy duck, snow geese, and swan. Licenses: Non-resident
$25.25 (State), $10.25 (county). Federal "duck stamp" for taking migra-
tory waterfowl, $1. License issued by county wardens and sheriffs. Duck
i stamps at post office. Limits: Bag limit: Quail, 12; ducks, IO in aggregate
of all kinds; geese and brant, 5 in aggregate; rails, I5 in aggregate; Q;
woodcock, 4; coot, 25; snipe, 15; doves, 15; squirrels, 8; rabbits, 10.
One deer (buck) and one turkey (gobbler) per season. General Laws:
Unlawful to procure license under assumed name, false address, or to
lend, transfer, or borrow and use license. Tags and badges must be dis-
played conspicuously on clothing.
Recreational Areas: Leaf River Forest, off US 49 near Brooklyn; Biloxi
Forest, SE. of Saucier on US 49; Chickasawhay Forest, local road between
Y Richton and Waynesboro; Homochitto Forest, off US 84 on Forest Service
road near Meadville; Bienville Forest, 18 m. SW. of the town of Forest,
State 35; Holly Springs Forest; Delta Purchase Unit, between Rolling
Fork and Yazoo City.
State Parks: LeRoy Percy State Park, 4 m. W. of Hollandale, US 61;
i Tombigbee Park, 7% m. E. of Tupelo, US 78; Clarkco Park, near Quit-
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Z GENERAL INFORMATION xxi .
man in Clarke County; Legion State Park, V2 m. E. of Louisville, State 15;
Tishomingo Park, 5 m. SE. of Tishomingo, 2 m. off State 25 on local
road; Holmes County Park, 5 m. S. of Durant, US 51; Spring Lake Park,
if 7 m. S. of Holly Springs, State 7; Roosevelt Park, 5 m. SW. of Morton,
US 80; Percy Quin Park, near McComb. State parks cover a total of
8,565 acres.
Preramimzr for T0m·irt.· Avoid zmnmrked spring;. Mosquitoes in Coastal
Meadow and in Delta regions, except in municipalities; campers should
take netting. Pairmzaur Plmztr, Reptiler, Dauzgeram Azzimalr, [merit: Rat-
t tlesnakes, moccasins, coral snakes. Poisonous plants include the ivies and
i other vines. Berries should not be eaten unless true identity is known.
Mosquitoes, black widow spiders generally distributed. Few bear, wildcats,
· bobcats in dense canebrakes in south and west Mississippi. Alligators in
, few Delta lakes and in swamplands of south Mississippi.
’ General Tourirt 5`er1»ice.· Traiiic regulations bulletin from State highway
` ; department information service; general laws from Secretary of State, in-
3 formation service; fish and game laws from game and fish commission;
chambers of commerce and hotels furnish general information; Mississippi
_` Advertising Commission, ]ackson.
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