xt7d513tvv9w https://nyx.uky.edu/dips/xt7d513tvv9w/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1942 journals kaes_circulars_003_389 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. This digital resource may be freely searched and displayed.  Permission must be received for subsequent distribution in print or electronically.  Physical rights are retained by the owning repository.  Copyright is retained in accordance with U. S. copyright laws.  For information about permissions to reproduce or publish, contact the Special Collections Research Center. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 389 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 389 1942 2014 true xt7d513tvv9w section xt7d513tvv9w CLO-l-l-l l N G Project lor LI--l-l Clubs y
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_/’   gg     Circular 389 l  
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.1/*   6
r,//       umvsnsirv or xsurucxr
 ly rl   i;%   College of Agriculture and Home
//  ig:    J V;#i   Economics, Extension Service
 V. I A l   Thomas P. Conpcr. Dean and Director
  `

 CLOTHING PROJECTS FOR 4-H GIRLS
The following nine projects of clothing work are available
to 4-H Club girls:
V Sewing—A New Venture
School Frocks _
Sleeping or Lounging Ensemble
Play and \Vork Clothes `
Dress—Up Costume
»I-H Girl‘s Formal Dress
Semitailored Cottons and Rayons
Tailored Suit or Ensemble
Bringing Your Wardrobe Up-to—Da1e ·.
Only one project should be undertaken within any one year
of 4--H club work. A girl starting in 4-H work with no experience
in sewing should take the Hrst project (“Sewing—a New Ven-
ture") the hrst year and "School Frocks" the second. After com-
pleting these she may choose either one of the next two ("Sleep- ·
ing or Lounging Ensemble" or "Play and \rVork Clothes"). The
next three ("Dress-Up Costume," "4—H Girl`s Formal Dress" and
“S€1UI[2lllO1`C(l Cottons and Rayons") may be taken in any order, '
depending on the girl`s wardrobe needs.
The last two ("Tailored Suit or Ensemble" and "Bringing
Your YVardrobe Up to Date") may be taken in the order desired.
They are for girls above the average in sewing skill and planning
knowledge, and should be taken only when the other project
requirements have been completed. .
Girls who have had some experience in sewing belore enroll-
ing in 4-H clothing projects may, upon approval of the leader, j
or agent, start with the second group, then follow the order V
given above.
Lexington, Kentucky
October, 1942 ,
Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economies: Collegé of Agriculicijji
and Home Economies. University or Kantuciqa mia me United states nepmtmwt °‘ 'lscr
culture. cooperating. Thomas P. Cooper, Director Issued in furtherance oi the Act:
May 8 and June 30. 1914, 5M’w.;; V
l0l\l#lU'ii 5

 l`
A SEMI—TAILORED COSTUME  
OF COTTON OR RAYON  
me Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs
By Iimrtt Lttcv, Donorttv THRELKELD, and Anim Butzmm DAvts
— Every girl wants distinctive and attractive clothes. No doubt most .
of you have already found that by making your own clothes you can i
ltave more clothes and those which look as if they belonged to you y `  
and to you alone. In this project you are to make that expensive
looking but simple, well-fitting dress of cotton or rayon which you
perhaps have been admiring in catalogs or store windows. With wise
choice ol` pattern and material you can make, for about one—third the I
year amount of a ready-made, a dress or suit which can be worn with satis-
encc faction for several years.  
Ven- y
com- WHAT TO DO IN THIS PRO]ECT t
li; Head H or study group l  
l. Plan the costume so that it will fit in with the rest of yottr -·
and _ wardrobe. ~ l
rdCl" 2- Study clothing needs and learn to buy only things necessary. ` ‘
b   Learn to keep a clothing account. l
  Hfrmd H or work group i l
_ l. Make a poster of the costume you select. t
ning 2· Mflke El costume of cotton or rayon—(lres5 with jacket. suit and   ,
Olccl blouse, or dress. _ l
. 3. Make one accessory—hat, bag or belt. .
troll- l. Keep a record of tlte cost of this costume. t il
adet, 5. Keep a clothing account for 6 months or longer. yl
Hdgr iv 6 Make an exhibit ot project work.   l
PLAN BEFORE MAKING THE COSTUME
Clothing inventory
Did you take a clothing inventory belore deciding which dress-up
garment to make? If so, did it help you make a wise choice? By tak-
` mg H Similar inventory before doing this project you ITIHY lllid 8 gm"
ment which will be the basis for your new suit or dress. If you have
_ nothing on hand to remodel, listing your clothing on hand will help
rott select a dress which will fit in with tlte rest of your wardrobe.
i ittttttun _ 3
;§`T§.&glé¥
attt»1°‘Ei
t0ttt»10·*‘ ·

 4 Iixiiexsiox Ctitcttiuxu No. $$9
Personal analysis
After selecting the outht needed, make a study ol your personal
characteristics. Select the attributes listed in "l Know Myself" chan
which describe yourself. With them in mind indicate in "I Know My
-Clothes" chart the pattern and fabric suitable to you.
Color and design in the material should be becoming to your col-
‘ oring and hgure. The personal analysis "I Know Myself" helps you
make the right choice. Remember, color and pattern can emphasize .
or can eclipse a personality. \Vear pastel colors and flowered designs
if you are a dainty, feminine type and they are becoming; bright colors.
plaids, or stripes if you are a yivacious, athletic type and they look
well on you.
“I KNOW MYSELF" CHART
(Underscore the expression most descriptive of yourself)
Personality and type
l am: serious-retiring vivacious-active
slralgh/[orward—atl1letie dem.u.re-dainty {rienrlly-qulfl I
Body proportions .
My waist is: short long average length
My legs are: short long average length
My shoulders are: narrow broad square sloping
My head is: small large average size ~
My hips are: small large average size
My neck is: long short lhiclc thin
Height and size
I ani tall and: slender stout . medium build _
I am average height and: slender stout medium lzzalrl
I ann short and: slender stout medium lzuild
Shape of body »
My shape is; munrl flal angular
Posture
My posture is: wreri stooped sztray-lmrlrerl
Shape of face _
M} lvil(`(` isi X(]lI(l}`(’ round mm] lung /1r*r1l°l·$lllll"'{ ‘
Body colors
My CyC> Zl1`t‘Z llghl (lar}: blue gray hazel lllllwll  p
AIX lIi1ll` is: llgl1l·l}r0ui11 r[(1,;·];-l];·(m»;q au[ylU·;·ly gpldmz llllll
My complexion is: [air dar]: sallow Md 1
My cheeks and lips are; true-red rrllow-red [7l"'l’]f-M  ~

  
SEMI-*I*AlI,OR.ED GAkx1uN‘1s 5
“I KNOW MY CLOTHES" CHART (
elsomll . (Underscore the expression most descriptive of the pattern
H chart ~ and fabric of clothing most suitable to you.)
[O" Ml Aly necklines are: round pointed square high close
mr COL My cuifs, collars, and other detzuls are: cnrwccl .\`ll'{[lg]l[
IPS YOU \I flugll . plum . · ., , , . .,
_ II v skirts are. straight flared ji/zu/( ll gorccl
lphilmc I long short i ` I ‘
designs My belts are: wide narrow fancy like my dress _ {I
K€Ol0Y$» I wear basic colors of: reel brown gray blue lilac}: l
6}* l00l< I wear color combinations such as: /1/he uml hrown I
red and green
I choose for my clothes these designs: ji/aids c/hw/is I
_ slripes plain hgured  _ _ I I _ sp;,,   it.,} I
il I choose figures that are: [argc Vi _ `,·_  _g       I l
small allozier widely spacer!   fj   i   i   I"
I select textures and weights that are: A   Q I    
'ly·t]HIt’I _ Svfl smooth gtijf mug/I   ”``   p/V"    
coarse fine shiny dull   __·_  {     *· '    
heavy lhin niezliztnz   t.__ I  » I     l l  
I tlecorate my garments with: bu/lons   1 ; ·   * I il .
Dirty p slilching self—trin1 rnffles lace     ° " ii·   4 I  
Undergarments »  ef ,    i { i il   l '
Your undergarments will depend     i l {
"ll YOU? dress, it may be gt Sill), lgetti-   K    —; .~I` -·    
IOM, or shorts nucl l)l`ZlSSlCl`('. Make   ilii   l c y     t    
,, {mild ‘ it bl, “ PHUCI`11 the style ol which g f  -       ly
l)0ll`§‘ slips for eotton dresses.    
llmly woven. dull-Hnishecl rztyou A   _
.I_$]m/ml mul by more $ullCCl l`Ol` l`il}`()|] clyggq-\_ A     5*; vi
HYJZUII A costume of unbleached muslin
H {;h1Il» ` modeled by a 4-H girl
·tr[2lr-itil p

 6 Exrmvsiow Cincutwm No. 389 1
Nlost girls need a foundation garment or girdle to give a smooth ht
with no wrinkles or bulge to their undergarments. Each should
choose one to suit her own individual Figure.
Accessories
Today the stores, pattern books, and magazines are hlled with
_ accessories which you can make. Hats, bags, and belts can be made
from scraps of left-over dress material such as pique, gingham, linenc.
and other cottons. Several styles of hats are easy to copy—bonnet,
brimmed type, beret, and turban—and all may be made by the in-
genious girl. To make the simple bonnet in the illustration:
x\D : /Cl/
}7 , y r  -_
  . . jg \ 
tt / 1 `
‘ ‘‘‘— *1-/* /--1 -—-—— N »'
* Y X ·  tl
/l/ /\ l  " S
/ / ,|/ ( NN".  -
_,  / I     j
- »""—·1·· aj! v
I ( {
: Completed bonnet
n
Steps in making bonnet
Cut two squares 15 inches by 15 inches. Use white pique for both
or use a color for the lining. Stitch together allowing M2" seam and
leaving opening at corner marked D on diagram below. Turn. Cul
off corner following line at D and hnish. Fold on curve, joining B A
and C at D. Sew edging rick-rack braid or crochet edging to tht
curved fold, catching in facing. Ribbon may tie at back. Fold bud
corner A.
Corn shucks plaited into a pointed four-strand braid may bv
shaped into a hat by sewing the braid together. Many #1-H campers
have learned to make this braid. _
Envelope type handbags are satisfactory with slip covers. The sltl’ -
covers should harmonize with each costume. lf one has an old hanfl
bag to USC as 21 foundation the covers can be made to Ht. MMS mam i
of looper clips and crocheted together are suitable material for purse
and bags. Four, six, or eight mats may be required for one bag. de i

   l
F ' .; 
SEMI-,1-`AILORED Gamxu-:N·rs· 7  
        " ~x ‘;$H/Tr f  V5-,2 * i»;.;é;€,,.i .4 T   g
Should   `         ..··‘—-T"       f
   X    w‘.   ;    " `”? ‘ »   ».
            V_ v.  
d with ·.          · ‘»·_A_   ··  
3 matic .  _   + §{?Z ?  .   ‘‘A’        
linene. I V     i ‘°‘   -—‘`?     `   ’Q:A    
bonnet, t i    O " T V A   T         VZV.    "     .
the in-     , A · at *‘   · rV $ A g 4..  _   _ ,
   .  i V
4 . t       T
Com shuck hats made by 4-H girl ` f
pending on the style of bag desired. Twine or cotton thread may be . f
trocheted into very practical and attractive accessories. f  
Interesting belts may be made of scraps of yarn, twine, leather,   f
B straw, and various other crafts materials. Yarn belts may be made f
` OH macaroni. Coarse crash may be embroidered in yarn, making i t
peasant-type belt, f  
? Accessories should fit in with the rest of the costume. For example, f  
wt UW with a figured dress, plain accessories in matching or contrasting t  
Colm`; With a coarse, plain-colored dress, a varicolored twine belt, a   M
fiat of the dress material and a bag to match one of the colors in the i
c t.
for both V f
am and MAKING THE COSTUME li
m_ Cut cutting and fitting .  
ming B Simple tailored garments must be well cut and constructed be- i if
, [0 tht CQUSG Style depends on Ht and good workmanship. Give sp€Ci21l C211‘€ `
iid back l0 the cutting of plaids and stripes. Make the designs match at seams, f
front closing, and across blouse and sleeves before cutting. The pat-
may be will may require more material in matching large designs. Follow
campers P€\ft€l`n instructions closely. Mark all notches, darts, and fullness.
Tailors tacks are easy to make and pay for the time spent in making
nie stir ‘1"’“‘·
td hand- ) IH fitting watch the grain of the material. Pin, and then baste.
tts matlt IMS **5 YOU go and avoid much ripping and stretching. Well—made
W Puygci f”'fl<>¤lloles and pogkgtg, iitcnrate Stitching on collars and [>0Cl<€l$.
haggle-   cdgc`SUlCfl(‘(l pleats, hems put ill with inconspicuous hemming, all
l Este for Z! goorl-looking Cogtiimg with nothing of llOmC-lU2l¤¤= WTA- be finished in either of three WHYY .
zi. liiin binding along sides, turn under the raw €dg€$ of tht i
binding even with the stitching, and hem or stitch thffm down
to il. ll niachine stitching is used it should be made f1'0m tht `
right side. and in the crease. Trim and overcast TRW fidgcs on
ends. ,

 . l
SI-Z)Il· l`.·\Il.()RED G.·\RhIEN`l`S Q
_ li. Stitch binding down without turning raw edge. Trim and {
mactical. overcast the edges along the sides as well as the ends.
al- Tht tg (lover the wrong side with a facing. \»Vhenever there are two l
or con- thicknesses of material where the buttonhole is placed this
tggtgtigl " '’V»   method may be used. lt lornis tt nitlcll
{ pmgm   **l¢
t i L   ends; then make diagonal slashes to l
S-mia;   stitching at each corner. "l`urn pouch
lliindet wnqma sw.; i     ]>iCtTC to Wl`()llg side ol the garment,
Smchct ' s __ g   then lold to exactly meet tn thc center
ide mat '   .   ol the slashed opening. li1lSlC in this
vHY$i   .   position and stitch [rom right side.
; of lilf ——-· - __~_»—   _\ltcr stitching this binding, fold the
m dOwn ’ RJGHT clot     upper part of the pocket (lO\\'It and
`1'OITI tht g t `   `t-*   stitch around the pouch, CZttCl1iIi§ (iw
idgcs on P iiiii A MfY}iY"_, triangular pieces in with this stitching
Y Ockét l’°““d with 1>¤¤ch piece :1; the ends of the pocket Siiwh-

 I0 Exrmvsion CIRCULAR No. 389
~ Seams
Seam Hnishes will, of course. depe11d o11 the 111aterial used and the
pattern. For heavy cotto11s a plain seam is best. Machine stitch or
pink the edges of the plai11 seam. For rayons, a plain seam with
` stitched edges or a double-stitcl1ed plain seam is satisfactory.
. Shoulder pads
Some padding is needed in most tailored dresses. 'l`he ainotmt
depends on how sloping your shoulders are. Make pads as lollows:
Cut a 10-inch circle of material like the dress. Crease tl1rough cen-
ter, pad one-hall with cotton batting so that the pad is ya inch
t ‘ thick at center and tapers to nothing at edges. Fold other hall
of circle over padding, bind edges, a11d tack padding to pre-
vent batting from slipping.
Place pad i11 sleeve so that t11e straight edge extends about 2% inch
‘ beyond armseye and the center ol pad is l inch lorward ol
shoulder seam. 'Tack at shoulder and 011 each side at sleetc
seam. Snaps may be used instead ol tacking.
(Round, cupped sl1oulder pads are used in some dresses with kt
mono-type sleeves.) ·
Buttons and belts
Fancy buttons and belts are expensive and limit tl1e choice 01
;tt·¢·essories that may be worn witl1 the costume. .-\s a rt1le, plain wash
 . j·   »iti- 1 ».~.’,     ·» .1    
p_ i     _»__   F; _‘..   V · H 1 t
  ...t .- ·· ··s· " €ijs·‘.ei»   . `
9-_ --#*· .  .__ __ 2;:. g  
.4.1: *=·‘ . ' V. IH} if in  
"   VE ji;     * at  ·`· 1 ii .
s —- ,/. at v — a
. _ < j ·   -
... .fg_/
,- ‘ ._   .` ·  in i lv ` 2:: A" V`,   K"
"   `  * **4., -— t   · ~"    
*‘ “* ?   .    
I\'l€Xp€l'lSlV9 and L1I`l\1SU2l 8CC€SSOTi€S fOl' yO'L\f COSt\.h’l'lB 1

 i 4 1
Vi
SEl\[[·TAILORED G.t\RNII·iN'lS I I
able buttons are best on cotton    a -»    ts,  .5,, _ ·,  
and 'l‘° tlresses. Choose buttons made of i ' _L_  gl _  ‘’s. ._ _:,s  A    ?’   i
mch mi pearl, glass, composition or [hose g     v=‘‘»~  ,  _ 
m “'l*l‘ which will not fade or be damaged '             ,_   
by washing. Fabriccovered but-    
tons may be placed on dresses 9    
Mmmm which will be dry cleaned. Belts i"   _,·l .   iistim i  A
[Oll0“vs: of the saute material as the dress .t     r~·»   I ·
.1gh cen- are often preferable to contrasting     ‘         . l
M2 {mh ones. A covered buckle of the dress     , ,sl_ yy t7 t       t
her half material on a belt of this type is      _y`     zs.   
to pre- quite a good choice for the rayon     .:§¢*·eg·.: »—       —‘ y
costume. \\'hen one chooses zi   _ ·   ii y       t t i
M lmll dress of simple lines, decorates it ,          
‘*'i‘l`d (ll with a self-trim or stitching, it may       .   I  
** *'“"“ be possttsie to time Setmi cos- _   l`ii`   'iil     tl
Wim kip fumes in one by a change of acces- ‘ . . `   ``’°--:    
_ SOl‘1es. Collars, jackets, j€1`klUS, A    
belts, hats, bags or gloves work `      
· magic and make it possible to have     I I j
l101€€ Ol H New outht with only a simple ad- A _·__ ;    
in W?l$ll' Clllion or subtraction of one or two   ` li
. of these items. rri`   ‘=·.   i ll
This is the back of the costume l ll
shown on the cover page y
PLANNING FOR THE NEXT DRESS i i
The clothing account or record of past expenditures is the best ty
possible basis for planning future expenditures. So, if you have not l j
all`€?l(l)' done so, start now keeping 3 careful account of all (llc tlfillllllg {
~ tnaterials and personal supplies which you buy. Unless this account
  '“_k€Pl l`01` six months, or 3 year, it will not be of value. The ·l—H ClUl>
glTllS Account and Budget Book is supplied f`or keeping this record.
By keeping a personal account you see how ntuch you actually
l SP€¤d OH yourself and yon begin to nnalyye your expenCS·llOf llZl\'y€ I0
‘ ‘ of or elaborate, but does require careful and wise choosing.

 I2 Exrzustow Cmcutduz No. 389
4-H RECORD—A SEMI-TAILORED COSTUME A
OF RAYON OR COTTON
Record of___ Age
(Name) i
» Describe the costume you have made: t
Itemize costume and accessories: Cost (money spent)
;;_ _,__,______ 3$_____._..
  $________.
  $___.__._...
  $1....4 ‘
  55.;é..# .
___;_______________ Total $_____{4
List and describe additional garments, made or remodeled for your- V
self and others; _ ./»