xt7fbg2h8g88 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7fbg2h8g88/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1939 journals kaes_circulars_003_313 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 313 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 313 1939 2014 true xt7fbg2h8g88 section xt7fbg2h8g88 O •
Clothing Project for
2 to the
V  M = 4 H Cl b
. _ 1 ' u S
liei cul I .
ion uml I UNIT H
CIRCULAR NO. 313
Usuullx 3 . 3 3 .   _,L,,   ,_,,   ,..,. .,._, ,.3,,,.1,. ,l,,A.  
. A I V 2 3 33.3*  3'3/\   —/3=3»‘  
I stzuul,   2 V 3 ‘3 V 33 3   /,.   
3   2 33   3. 3   _.3;,3h ,;.33,;;;
il siuml 3 _ V ,’ _ 3, U   .  ., -3 , 2 33{3 Q ‘V,  { ’’¤» °i‘—,.=§;Q€?f’§5
lioruml    ,3  I3  I I     `  
*P*m% 3 2     .   V * iV”’”  . V3--  A   ·· V V.<
or len " ` ' · VT ·   '  / --   3 3 ` I
, _ Q_, (M _,, 3 ,_; 2 V
Icm Im .· , ~ M,) . {V ig `
iauvul-   2 _;        3i.’¥ ; I f I
2 l`l)llll(I / I I I It   . 3. jfs.;
mimi. 3 · ° 3       3Q.;3:: 3 - l
2 \\'hI(`]l ’     _3  .
”‘ '“"*‘ . .333 3 2··- . : ·—-V ‘   3·-3   3- 3·33 - V
ed, and     ·\ V         .3  ' 
gkille4l_   ‘   ,       ·   ,.33·    
nd qual- ,3   -3. I   P ' . ` ' _ ' ·
The or- A 333' . I _    ,2  L   i_=·
2d I"“" 4 3_33. Q 1  3.3   -3 3       , 3 -~3-.   2     3. -3
  ’‘‘‘ ‘"* UNIVERSITY of KENTUCKY
fa in n COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
1, TIIC . . . .
llc Extension Division
ut 1
1 I I) THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director
3 €l` lil s
miilrol
Lexington, Ky.
October, 1939
Pupllshed in connection with the agricultural extension work curricd on by co-
operation of the College of Agriculture, University of Kentucky, with the U. S. Depart- _
, ment of Agriculture, and distributed in furtherance of the work provided for in the Act
01 Congress of May 8, 1914.
   

 `**l
ORGANIZATION OF THE CLOTHING PROGRAM
Lezulerslzijy. Before a clothing project may be organized intl
community there 1m1st be at least live girls between 10 and 18 years I
of age who are interested in this project. lt is then necessary for
the extension agent to assist this group of girls to procure their
leader. This leader must be an adult, an older club girl, or a Um
pia Club girl, who is interested in the girls of her community, willing
to devote sufficient time to this work to ensure successful coinpletioii. l· l
and who has a knowledge of clothing.
lt is essential to have the interest and cooperation ol parenty.
This may be accomplished by personal visits by leader or liome grj
demonstration agent, connminity meetings, and information mi   i
club work mailed directly to the 1)2t1`C11LS. 1
P/acc of Mr·z·/ing. Often the school is the IIIOSL central place ol 1*  
meeting, but it may be more satisfactory to meet in the homes lil 5. I
the leaders and club girls. \»\lork tables and a sewing machine are 2
necessary equipment. l
_ i»\t least two meetings each month should be held during the gl
course of the work. lt may be that more than twelve meetings will l' 3
be required. The length of each meeting largely will determine the
number necessary for satisfactory results. Club members may prefer lm
to meet for a short time once a week. can
]{ccorrI.s‘. Each girl is to do her own sewing and keep a recortl lm
of her work in the clothing record book which is provided by the gsi]
State Club Ollice. The secretary or project captain is to keep tt HC].
record of the attendance at meetings. She should also record special lor
activities in which the group takes part. but
l)Ul7'I(}}I.S`[l`(lffO}I.S, lt is not enough for a 4-H club girl to knott gm'
how to do things herself. Often she is called upon to teach others. sl H in
demonstration gives a girl valuable practice in showing what she
has learned. It is desirable to start with simple individual demon,
strations at each club meeting and gradually grow into team wml. lool
See Circular 263.  
]1¢d-ging. Being able to judge complete school outhts as well 85 gw
individual garments is a real asset in the selection and making of dl-C;
school clothes. A girl learns to consider each garment in relation bec
to the whole costtnne. judging is included in the suggested ]')l`()g`l`2llll pat
at the back of this circular. Circular Number 280 should be 11*Cll lljll
in this phase of the project. jj;
mat
met

 Circular N0. 313
Ziff mf CLOTHING PROJECT FOR 4-H CLUBS
  Unit II—Costume for School or Sports
lm ilhcir By EDITH LACY and ANITA BURNANI I
ir a Uto-
ryy Willing PROJECT REQUIREMENTS
nl)]m(,]; i_ Plan an entire costume for either;
(a) School
l _ t (lu) Camp or sports
P‘u€m`· (c) (Jlub uniform
"l` htttttt Q_ Make a dress of wash material for one of these occasions.
ition on   Make two undergarments to be worn with the dress, or one
undergarment and a pair of pajamas, or a similar garment.
Plym (H 1, spend at least. two hours menthng, darmng, patching or caring
for own clothing.
m_m°“ Ul fi, Keep an accurate record of project. including costs of materials,
h1¤¢1¤`t and number of hours spent on costume, in the Clothing Record
Book.
1-mg [hu 6. Learn to judge costumesemade in your project group. ·
ings Wm 7. Put garments on exhibition or wear in style revue in community t
Him my or county or lll both. · l
_ .»\cnve, everyday wear requires a costume ol good. sturdy ma-
1>‘1¤`¤l<‘t terial. simply made with firm stitching; a costume that is easy to
care for and one that will stand tubbing often. Five days of the
Q 1-W,]-ii week. or more, a girl will wear such a costume. It is reasonable,
il bw my then. that she should lwant such clothes to be serviceable, becoming `
’ keep H and comfortable. Umt II has been designed to help each girl study
_ her own problems and learn how to be well dressed for school and
fl *l’C"'i'] for Sports. To be well dressed involves not only the garments worn
but the entire personal appearance, including care of the body, a
[O know $11`?tCCftll poise and good posture. No beauty of dress can O\'Cl`l)2`il2lllCC
)thC1.5' __\ it lack of attention to personal hygiene or poor posture.
vhat she PLAN THE COSTUME FIRST
d¢m<>¤r B€gin by deciding for what occasion you want the costume; then
m work. look thru fashion magazines until a dress is found which suits you
in line and design and is appropriate for the places it is to be worn.
5 wel] as (jul Ollt this picture and 'mount it on cardboard, starting Em 21tt1‘ZiC·
lk, Of UVB poster.- After deciding on the dress pattern,. proceed to the
1 mg dl`C$$mHi€l`l21l. Decide color and a design in mater1al Whlell 15 YDOSK
relation becoming to you, and a material which will work up well by the
[)l`()gl`iUl] IFIIICYII Vltosen, Now you are ready to plan tlIl(lCl`gZll`1UClN'$ {O 20
be Ugg] will llli? (lress and to purchase iiiaterial for them. Tile type of (ll`C$$
l’li*ll|l€(l determines tlio kind of material, style and fll1iSl1€S f01` i'llC$C
undergarments. Before undergarments are complete, buy dress
material. Finish poster by pasting samples of dress and undergar— y
ment materials under the picture. ·

 4 Kentucky Extension Circular No. 313
t` THE SCHOOL COSTUME HCC
: -,;T.__ T  . way'. ..   »,..K  " " *”
 fg;  _  `The ·l»—H Qllub girl usually thing l00l
_ _         ol cottons lor school clothes; and . H1`0
{ /   r ‘ t ;;?‘~§&;;; ‘   what could be more seivicegiblc my éil l
      easier to care lor than cotton} ll
          tubs l)C2llllQ1£Ull}"2l]l(l can lic [ww pill
ef  ’ V ll awj     lreslrand crisp without a great (lm] lnlg
pj, . gi ‘ -_    ‘t ·`eg ji?   ol effort. Tl1ese days cotton [gl,]-R, (Ul
A _i__;;_ gr _*      _;t;/ come 111 such a tantalizing arrqi .,l
‘ F.     J       y    colors and designs that one is min],.
    ’ lg   ted to buy more than one nqytl,
  ’ .e   ti" Since inexpensive prints mai- It
     .°i r l ].  `~  had in ClOts, Stripes, checks, llm]
  `·,. _;       patterns and solids, one ol wliitli
    it     will be becoming to any type, wlii
  "  if t     search further for a material? Girlt
  i  ~’_.;.   have found too that the simplqtt
  . g   ' `. 'g;,,—.  » patterns are the best lor sclinsl
  g i _ ii _ costtnnes, as they are easier to inztlt
- ` gg V   _   .. · and are most girlish. Gone nit
»       l`rills· and ruffles for school wear.  
      and in high style are simple, well i
.3 .,i.          cut. well-made garments. ?
      A *$I Coiisirttction. of cIi‘rs.s‘.‘ `
    . ` n l. Test pattern with indivitluzil  W
"   i`    __ ‘;;;;£V_  measurements.  
      2. Place pattern on niatcriul.  
     A   making sure that all piece  
      .`_   are placed properly and pill.  
3. Cut with long, even strokes.  
cutting notches out instead of in as give11 on pattern.  
4. Stitch darts, tucks or yokes.  
5. Pin seams, then baste,  
6. Fit the garment to figure. _  
7. Make seams according to the material and pattern used. Plain "
seams with some sort of edge finish are satisfactory for most
prints. French seams are good for sleazy material. _
UNDERGARMENTS  
A slip and shorts are the two garments which most second-ttmt  
girls choose to make to complete the school costume. lVl€d1Um  
weight cottons, as long cloth, nainsook, cambric, broadcloth Bfld  
non-cling cottons are satisfactory. Mercerized materials have a slick  
finish which prevents undergarments clinging to the dress. \~\l11tc
is most always the wisest choice. _
The two-piece slip cut on the straight of the goods meets the _
needs of the most girls. The slip which is fitted in at waistline and  
bust with darts gives a smooth, slender appearance. A shaped

 2
Clothing Project for 4»H Clubs, Unit II 5
UME neckline coming to points where the straps are attached Hts and
illy thing looks right on·most ltgures. lhe shorts may be made to Ht smooth
uhm; and mpuncl the W2llSl CIIIIQY by fl€i1.l$`Ol Cl21hl1C €lC1`OSS [l1C back. The Brush
jcablg and H, me neck and hemhnc ol shps and shorts may cori·espo¤d_
mmu? ll Smce mexpensive patternsrmay be houghtaall girls should have t
I he kw i,M[er|1s {O1` l)Oll1 g3l`IUClllS·A Iwo O1` lh1"€€ g11`lS of the same sue
wml dm] might usethe same garment patterns.
on [ub].i(_ (‘ons/rttctton of tzmclcrgarvnents: ·
g mlm U] }_ {study patterns. k'V1`1lC 112t111€ O11 each p1eee and mark all per-
le is mul} lorations, told ol goods? etc,. · ' _
me NMIS. Q_ Plaeopattern on ntatertal, l)l11l11I1g·()l1-Sll`21lgl1[ ol goods first,
S mm. ht then in enough places tolprevent shpping.
Cksi Hm] 5%, (jut alter all pieces are i)11`1l1€(l clown.
Of whidl »1. Mark darts and baste them.
WPC, WIN 5, Pm notches and haste garment together. U
rm? Girl; ti, hlakelireticlt or other- suitable seams in slip,
2 simplm 7_ Bias lacings, shaped lacmgs or plam, narrow hems may be
O1. sdm] used at neck and hem lines. y
fl` K0 tltétltt COSTUMES FOR CAMP
Gone ant ,
OO] wml   f =r, . 3; v_      ·’“‘*?’1 Czttup costunies should l
inte, it-at   1 Q . i    ?  sis     " “ ““‘1’l€’ “"""·""‘*"’l“y
        . durable, easy to care lor
.       i %·  V V V.   and easy to put 011. Shirts,
Hdiyidlm]  ‘  ig; ygg    `   *5 **».      shorts anda skirt makega
  .—r- =            {rf   \_E_       o s t .S21l1Sl2lCL()l`}' outht.
niatcrittl.     -»1‘=. `   zaisl Z `l_.     ·°YC   thc “h‘“¥ ml ¥h°"‘“ “"‘¥" ·
att nm   ;..     ·_  a .    »:· 1     lm “’°‘l IO" *‘C“"° ¥“"‘“i
V and pm     \ ‘     then skirts can be donned
n mom   s   A in a _]1lly over the shorts
_n·   Q . ` A lor classes or at mealtnne.
  -  ·   Cl1l<>ttCS have also proved
    • .   .```   qtnte popular and they
    · 211`C lI1()(lCSL and allow lree-
Sed Plain   "°“"  % ·g'$ dom ·in active games' or
for mm   ‘   ta ’ — lor hiking. Shirting, ging-
ii  by I       ham, prints, lirmly—woven
‘ 7 *   _ _;    seersucker, and other cot-
gt; · _   tons are 1110815 satislactory
.   ~ ‘ .,*—¥>··   lor these costumes. lail-
Condllnll   . ~ .   ored hnishes such as llat
Medmm   ‘   V i ' lelled seams. hound hut-
cloth and   sy    * , tonholes, and stitching may
NC H Wl       he used [or hnishes on
*S· “hl[€   A _   these outhts. A girl who
lr   . ‘ _    chooses this type of cos-
'WCIS In - ,.   ·   “‘  tume mav make a shirt.
Mme and   , i`;_ _ . __·- _ i,     shorts and skirt or she
K Shullcd “`”'“w' i     “ ‘```i   wid may make shirt. culottes .
Camp costume,
I

 `·l
tv [veit/itc/ty ['i.N[(f}1.S`}I())I Circular No. 3/3
and brassiere. To wear with a sports outht many girls may wisli
to make a scarl or some other accessory. i
FOUR-H CLUB UNIFORM tht
Vlihe club unilorm is appropriate lor many occasions as it g,  
made ol a serviceable cotton in medium shade ol green. This tlress T
eould be worn lor school, sports or street. Many girls want to ingttt Th
this as they like the uniform lor County Rally and .~\cl1ieveinqm ”l~
days, and [or _]unior \\'eek it is almost a necessity. lt is a lovely sight O
to see a large group ol` ~l-H girls in their green and white costtnnev.
The pattern lor this changes every lew years. so ask your agent tlit
new pattern number and to see a sample ol the new material.
Undergarments ol the satne kind suggested [or school wear art _
appropriate with the tinilorm. .-\lso suggestions lor construction nl
the school costume apply here.
PAJAIVIAS i
l)Zl>iZlIllZlS lor lounging or sleeping are liked by most cltib giilv.
(Iotton print, batiste, dimity or muslin may be used lor these. llit
` simple, well-made type lits into most girls' wardrobes better than
a fancy, elaborate garment. Many girls use stitching as the only
trimming. One girl made a most attractive pair ol thin tinl>leacl1t·tl
muslin, and used blue buttons and a blue monogram as the tlecorii- __
tive linish. ’l`ry to see what you can do with a simple pattern antl  
inexpensive material. Remember the pajamas may be made insteatl SU
ol one ol` tlte undergarments. W
Cons/rtzclioii of L/)(I.j(l)Ii(l.S.' to
l. 1·`lat lelled seams are desirable.
2. Fitted yokes and neck lacings are attractive.  
e
CARE OF CLOTHING
.\ well»dressed girl not only knows how to select her clothes but
how to care lor them properly. She not only knows how but pm-
ceeds to clean, press, mend and darn as each article needs care. .»\ y
complete outfit means that the entire otttlit is ready lor wear antl  
we hope every club girl keeps at least one outht ready and lit. Snaps
and buttons need constant attention. lf snaps and hooks are pitt
on with a button-hole stitch one will be repaid lor the extra time
used in applying them. Heins have a habit ol coming out, so tlitxi
need vigilant watching. Runs and holes in hose should be caugnt
in the beginning. \\’ashing hose each night. alter wearing does nintli
to make them wear longer. Have you liormed the patching liztliit:
You may be surprised how expertly this can be done with a l1ttlt·
practice. White collars are atti·activ·e but they tnttst he kept >U`U‘ tj.
pltlollhly clean in order to be so, Remember that. keeping t’ll“‘ in
<`lUlllCS Cleilli. liree il`()lil wriiikles and repaired makes lor good §1`t)(’lll' in
ing and is the mark ol` a charming. attractive girl.

 i
Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs, Unit ll 7
Hill with CONSTRUCTIVE PROCESSES
Seanzs. The kind of seam to use depends on the material and
the type of garment. Time is saved by basting. Place the basting
_ . . beside the line that is to be stitched, not on it. .—\ll seams should
il  1* lt tm e;ii·el`ttlly pressed before finishing. Plain seams with some kind
m (hw (,|`t-(lge linish are S€lllSl€lC[O1`}’ for Hl`lill}'·W()\’CI] eottons, as prints and
_“l "‘t*l*°‘ Qing-littiiis. Most of the unit two dresses may be hnished with either
lumlcm nl the two seams shown.
rely 5lU`lll
» D
Q5()SllllllC».
tgent the
·ial.  ··-—·-·.····» "* " ·_·
uctitm ttl i t
lub girls. V y A
ese. 'lltt
tml mlm Plain seam, stitched edges Plain seam. double stitching
the onli
l>le’1d1l·tl . . . . . .
C (l;_(_m_,l_ Plain scam with slzlrlletl crlges. Allow % inch to   inch lor
m_ll”'m(l\ seam. Fold each raw edge ol the seam over once and stitch. Press
C imliwl seam open [lat.
( Plain seam with the Iwo eclges slitcltcd togct/mr. Stitch the two
raw edges together about bi inch from lirst stitching. Trim close
to last row ol stitching.
Frcnclt scam. This is a practical seam for thin or medium-
wetght materials and may be used for dresses or slips. It may be
described as a seam within a seam. To make: place the two wrong
tthes but i
but pm-
care. .»\ i
\'Q§ll` illlll """""-—·-· ———— —·—— --~-·———-—— -———- -··—··-
t. Snaps ‘,;is;>;;;b '
are [Jill ............. . `“````' "` “```` ' ```'`'_```` `
itra time
, so th·_·t
e Célllglll
>es ntttdt
· ·l`t}
lg hildl French seam Stitched fell
t a ltttlt·
*t.tl`ll· ·, - . . .  
bl) rmt rltlts ol the tnaterigtl together, pin, basic and stllcll. ll‘llll (`l0>C I
tr — .· _ · * . . .
lfldmm l" Nllltlllllg and turn and press, Baste material and slllCll Zlglllll b§'
(Y ' , , ' . . .
[ ¤l‘ lllllthtne 14; meh to % inch lrom Cdge.
.8/tlr/tml fell. This seam is strong and flat and 15 used for 1

 H ]\i(?}IfI{Cf{)* lfxlenszion Circirlawr No. 3/3
shorts, pajamas and tailored garments. Two rows of stitching show o
on the right side. To make: place the two wrong sides of the t_
material together with edges even. Baste and stitch so that the lr
upper side of the stitch comes to the right side of the seam, T1-im I,
the under side of the seam to yg inch, then turn the wide edge om I]
the narrow one. Lay both flat on cloth. Baste and stitch on outer lr
edge.
NECK FINISHES FOR SLIPS
The following pictures may olfer some suggestions for the
finishes for the slips. The shaped facing is cut. using the slip pat-
ICI`!]. This facing may be turned either to the right or the wrong
.-,. I .    .   »,
       
    i``rl ·       ‘ .
3.  V g  »
i T I 
 i { 
 ’| . _/__ { 
_  E · 4   > {  /7  l
r · 1 `
    *4- . M4.
Fitted facing for slips
side. lf turned to the right side it may be put down with a decora- I
tive stitch as a leather—stitch chain or outline. Or it may he U
stitched down using a long machine stitch, and then embroidert S
thread woven in and out the stitches. lf turned to the wrong side I
it may be hemmed down by hand. ·
\
ss- {__ / 4s*‘°"• [
   ** ·—  ;/ od
»·   . .· .,-   -   ·. ••
.\».e.,, ~·   . _,   · "     ·•
·‘“`“*’i”*‘“‘~·—~~;    7 -·'•» . . »
i `   ····••  
  -`  as    ": M01.
` —+.=:~·-=» . “  ki? 
’_,_,»· ,_¤.»;=*··;,:·'*y,.;€é;€_,_. VA Llfiti 
l. .i..~ ·     W e li   .  
French hem Decorative stitch
I·`rw1c/1 frmu. A French hem is a narrow edge finish resembling
a French seam on the wrong side of the material, and showing nn r
stitching on the right side. This hnish is especially good lor nucl 1
and armholes of undergarments where lace or ric-rac braid rs to ]
l1t‘ llSC<‘1llllg with colored thread, Cut a binding two ill(`llCS \\'l(lC Hllil V
>1` llcf ih long as desired for ()l)Q]]l]]g_ plus an inch. Fold IllC lllllillllg
cl ts tp lengthwise thru the center. Baste this crease to the blouse along
./8 rurl the colored thread marking. Stitch one-fourth inch from the slash 3
i

 `i
I0 lxlvrilzzrlcy Extension Circular No. 313
line on each side and across the bottom. Cut thru center and diag.
onally out to each corner. Turn binding piece to wrong side, Basle
around opening on right side to lorm a binding, not turning gealll
edges back. Turn under raw .
edge of binding on wrong side pe___   ,_A._.___     l·.li-  ¤?>-ii? =¤‘ ‘ `*·*  
and whip to machine stitching. ___;_   ``‘'`V`' i V l"i?’§if¤.. ’ii°  
Stitch across the end ol the   __._ j   V YY ·.—__ —_ f l  
binding on wrong side.    TY l‘`.j `Q`?`¤`$’i¤.{.j;lj.·_:·{   f`§’l I
COLLARS AND FITTED NECK   . Ki i·.·`V_   j `V``V   _V__ l ll      
FACINGS     ````       W  
joining collar to dress. Match   ` °`  li.; 
notches and pin in place. Cut    §$§’»§l§;_5?;_°gY  l`  `·.,
a narrow bias strip lor covering  g    if ·-   
the raw edge of the collar. Haste     ·.-_‘:   ii°'i   V`V’ ’ ?:l;?j’_fi·§3£·E;E;·    
one edge ol the collar and the   ,_iA   V’i` Y     `, -l—
bias strip to the dress. Stitch  _-i$;"“Fi·_;_ _.__.l'i E   _‘_._ l gg, _____-l      1 " ll,
and press. Turn edge of bias   ,fV_;l_l.._:l_, Ai’Vi°i’" I     me lll
` strip under, baste down to dress,  Q  _________   °i’‘i I ° 
and whip in place by hand. A 'L'' '     collar
tt
llllled neck frzrzing. (But neck lacing using the neck ol the blouse
lor shaping the inside edge ol the lacing. Allow lor shoulder seams. Ul
Stitch shoulder seams
  together. Place facing
  ?—— l __.Vl._ ll right side down to the *‘
/ -   _T;;_  A inside of the neck edge.
`\ \ E   ll baste and stitch. Clip ll.
\   / seam allowance and turn ls
_  ·   facing to right side ol
\_  l   ,  garment, basting along ll
.   /   I neckledgel Im n undet lh
»   ._ lower edge, baste and
 QV   stitch down.
""  Dress hem. Have ll
some one mark the c0r- ll
rect length ol the gar-
ment, using a yard stick. ll
· Measure an equal dis- ll
um. .
tance lrom the llooi. ll
Fitted facing for dress plllllllg lll 21 ]`0\\' ol pills
to mark the turn ol the
hem. Turn hem at this line and baste. 'l`hen use a pasteboard gage “
lor depth ol hem, trim oll even around top edge. Turn edge ol hem  
under about % inch and stitch on top edge by machine. Pin hem t
in place, baste and then hem by hand with slip stitch. Any fullness
may be pt1t in small darts or eased in by pulling up the machine l
stitching.

 Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs, Unit II ll
ld diilq iiiiiééiiiiiiiiiieiiiiiiaiziiii§Ei€§i§%§§%§?§§§§§?§§§§i;i§i§§a§a§2§zgzgzzzizgégit2;a§a§a§z§z§z§s;a§zizizizi§§§§§§§%i§i§iiiéiEiiiiiiiééiiiiiiiiiiiiéiiiiiiiiéiéiiai=i2i2¥2§2iziaésieieiiiéiaiéizéeieisééizééziéiiaiaieisiaéeieieisizizieisiiiiéiiiiiiiéiieiéééézizi2é2é2é=%’;;;2é¢2·z;ti2;2;2é2§2%2§?¥
e. Bastc 
  V—» »·      
_ 
il V; ·   ;:;:a=;?§§;§;§;§§§z5 ; §€;2 ; ;%§ 52; ;2§E$§?:_ ;;;:§5;: : :;E;%; ez; ._._‘   . .. .;¤§§i €EEE$2E?§E}E{§Ei§E§E¥%;’}E§E}’;EQZ;5§
{ ei;e;....·.·-_;’i’=iiiijiiigiiiizisizi2’»···——ifi§i§iiiiii§;§i§giézggéi-··—·;1;=i=ii;i;i;;;;;i;§2%;i~···—-—i;i;;;i;t;E;i;:;i;%z§zi$-—~—-;;‘i*iiiijzi;§1g;i2§2%2%z1--—··ii’Fififiiiiffi;%ig;;··»-»—;?ijiiizizizgggzggc&;z;%;>·····»··i§jjj;,:;i;§;§;’it2-~nFii_;ij¥2;;;..;i§i;éi’§&¥.....$§‘§;i2¥iti7;i$%?%¥2§?&i;?;.;2§&i2;iii%e2§;Q
 ~, new.
`V  I4 Dress hem
 \\  .
> i \`  liottzzd /mlton/to/(rs. These are decorative as well as practical.
;.  V \  they ean be made in any material. The binding may be made ol
if » i» ri ff, the same or contrasting material. Plaid or stripe material should
‘“ K` he cut on the bias when used as a binding.
l. Mark the position and the exact length ol the buttonhole with .
 I j the material,   inch larger on all sides
· `   than the hole, which means that the
    patch is ly: inch wider and longer thilll
y   the hole. Lay the right side of the patch
_ ` to the wrong side of the garment, see
,2,6,,.,. Sm; ,,,;,,_  that all margins are exactly even, pm
Bound bummholes and baste carefully into position. _
Turn garment to right. side, cttt with
diagonal slashes at all four corners tg inch deep. Turn €lacetl l , $4L  
lornis · " + -  ,
  ntii ll “ IIIIIIIIEII “
Place `
  t1i¤tl I "'ERI IIIIIEEIIIII
l   IIIII' I”””"'”'
st tl·t llll
te ou
Jltlie A- R¤q|~Te·a; B-Wwnq Sidc.
in U) Set-on patch
n the
:1 the ()iter/mntl or set»in palc/1. This patch is very neat and less con-
:ssing spicuous than the hemmed patch, therefore it is used more often
ttrac- lor patching outer clothing. It is less durable, however, so is seldom i
used on garments that require constant laundering.
M ·~‘ ll   Em ‘}   I
it i>   s_ __  ` P i l¥I§§I£'i-‘·$$‘$}·"-“ {iIl 
;1·l]]o_ , t _     >·   at I· .   ‘ i
hape, I     `_`_ `  g.   i’·_      L "  
sound  ._ Q _ ‘ ° .;   `  1 ‘   .»   _ .
hole. ~ g I      {i j   i·`t. f.‘i.`ZZ·_‘i_f`;_`    i .  __ ‘
luillit . l     ‘ i Z“¥‘ i ;`;  ii»· l—:` Y i»?li‘»¥.-:t’? »;i°` ¥   
  ¤·¤· ¤¤ *¥*'**¤¤€#;r* ··
wig,] °  J { ‘  §f; ;;i’;%Qg? i-:‘_ ; -—iu-   gif   ' ·
ie tlc- is ' _ :,,,,,g,,Q  ;  ii t AKR!]  '
it the tl = . -_.»   ‘;».’t»:‘ 2 .    t‘,   `t»;—t   ::‘t q ;c·     5 ‘***“!1 V
ad ol ,   ,4 4 '_  2- "     _ V V U
sides   »=t,.·  ;.2;e2·:.?   l1£T’dll é?I
[ tht- EIGHT stm; Kr-$4. C wzowca sms
than Overhand patch
iatch
  >f’*' V Prepare hole in the garment as described lor hemmed patch.
. pin Fhen clip diagonally outward from the corner of the hole yi inch
I and crease the edges to the wrong side, baste in position il the [
with material will not hold the crease easily. Cut a piece ol` material lor I
es ol a patch large enough to cover the hole easily. Place this patch on
  tg the garment with the right side oil the patch to the wrong side of the Z
ur
l
l
r
l
l

 14 Kezittzc/c t Extension Circular No. 3/3
5
garment matching perfectly the thread and design. Pin in position.
Turn back the edges of the patch to exactly lit the hole. ()n
the wrong side overhand the two folded edges together with snrall
stitches so the seam will lie flat. Overcast the raw edges of the seams
to prevent rayeling.
lmrning. Darning is the replacing of worn or torn threads with
it weaving stitch. Tears i11 cloth mav be darned as well as holes in
. ¤ . . . I
stockings and other knitted labrics.
.8/orkirrg clarning. The darning cotton should match the threatl I
ol` the stocking in both size and color. Use a long—eyed needle not
too coarse. Place darner inside stocking; trim away the ragged
edges around the hole. On the right side of the stocking, about % I
inch from the edge of the hole, run a thread of contrasting color in
diamond shape. This outlines the darn and the finished darn is V
diamond sha >ed which >revents the strain from comin r on any one
. I . I . . 5 . ·
row ol loops in the stocking. Darn the lengthwise way with the
ribs ol` stocking first. beginning at lower right-hand corner. Use
short running stitches, turnin at the edge of the basted outline.
U . . ” .
Y Leave about 1 inch of the thread in a loo) at turn to allow lor
. . 8 . . 1
shrinking. \~Vhen the hole is reached catch into the edge on the other
side; continue the running stitches to the line. Repeat until all
the space has been filled in. Turn and fill in woof threads the same
way. \\’hen the hole is reached go over one thread and under next
until hole is crossed then take running stitch to guide line. Repeat. *
taking up alternate threads until darn is Hnished. Remove basting
thread and press.
\\’hen a thin spot shows in the foot of a stocking a [ew rows ol
darning will olten reinforce the spot so that the hole does not appear.
/\ t
/ \ \ [
A /`\\ Q \`I
 
I t lJ_| I I I
/ I II `I
· I v I ' \' I \
/ I I I I I I I I V l
t ‘t tt
" I3   II"
‘·~1iTEri¢"»T"'
'\.t,J'/ I
|i.| |
`