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  l The Home Frurt Garden
 g By Carl E. Chaplin
 ht i Circulcr 508
  Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics
3 College of Agriculture and Home Economics, University of Kentucky
Q_ and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating
-· ‘  FRANK J. WELCH Director
.1-*** . *
m l ` lssued rn furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, l9l4.

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C O N T E N T S C
Page  l  
i Selection of Varieties .............................,....,.......,....................... 6 E
Recommended Varieties .............................................................. 7 h- I.
Choosing Nursery Stock ......................,....................................... 8 (
ll Establishing the Fruit Garden ...,..............................,..................... lO E
l Pest Control ..........................,...............i...................i................. l5  ` l
\ Thinning Fruit ......................................................i..................... l9 \
 
i Principles ot Pruning .................................................................. 2l I
T   Strawberries ....................,........................................................... 30
g C f
Q Blueberries ,................................................................................. 34 {
  Dwarf Apples and Pears .............................................................. 34 t
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S

 I; The Home Fruit Gorderi
  By Carl E. Chap|in*
i The climate and soils of Kentucky are suited to the growing
T of a wide variety of fruits. However, a large number of people
do not grow them, a frequent excuse being that they can buy
.i them cheaper. This is true only when the grower does not prop-
 · erly care for the planting. A properly cared-for fruit garden will
pay big dividends in money—savings, health, and high—quality
_' produce, and will also bring much personal satisfaction.
High-quality fruits l
 i Tree ripened fruits in general are much better than co1n1ner—
V cial, green—picked products. Tree—ripened peaches, for example,
gain as much as 300 percent in quality during the last few days
I of maturation. Moreover, many of the varieties of fruits grown
' in commercial orchards do not have the high quality possible in
i varieties better adapted to home use. This is because the com-
mercial fruits have to withstand packing and shipping.
_ Improved diet
Fruits have long been recognized as “protective” foods. Fresh
T fruits and vegetables have been known for several hundred years
as preventives of scurvy. We now know that Vitamin C, con-
tained in large quantities in many fruits, is essential to health,
T and that many yellow-fleshed fruits are good sources of Vitamin
’ A. Fruits act also as a tonic in keeping the digestive system in
T order, and aid in the digestion of other foods.
 T Economic value
 ‘_ lt is difficult to figure the monetary value of a home—fruit
 _l Supply, since the labor required to grow and preserve the fruit,
` the initial cost of plants, spray material, equipment, and the like,
 F must be taken into account. However, considering the high cost
‘ of commercially canned or frozen fruit, it is evident that a large
. saving can be made.
`_ ° The author is indebted to the University of Vllest Virginia and the Univer-
{ sity of Illinois for several illustrations used herein.
  `

 { if
Y T Persanal satisfaction ,
r q Fruit growing for some people has values beyond the values
l j of the harvested product. After a day in the office or factory, it
  is restful and relaxing to work in the fruit garden. Farmers too, l
may get satisfaction in growing quality fruits. For some, fruit
growing might well become a hobby. Another sort of satisfaction
. comes to the housewife who sees her well—stocked shelves and
knows that her family’s health will not suffer through lack of
fruits in the diet.
Size af planting
l The size of planting for a home fruit garden is limited by
i space, site, size of family and the amount of time available. The  l
planting should never be greater than the grower can care for p
properly. In most cases it should be only large enough to insure
. plenty of fruit for the family. Equipment and labor become prob-
  lems if the project is too large. However, if a ready market is
` gf available for surplus production, and if the grower has adequate f
l equipment and gives the plantings good care, a larger planting
would be quite profitable.
The planting should cover the range of fruits insofar as space,
_i adaptability, and personal likes and dislikes are concerned. Where
  space is limited, there may be room only for a few dwarf fruit
A   trees and a bed of strawberries (see pages 30 and  
_ l A study of Table 1 will be helpful in computing size of the
. fruit garden.
E Site l
` \xVhen enough land is available so that a choice of location ·
can be made, there are several things to consider: It should he
near the house. It should be well drained, as most fruit plants i
cannot stand “wet feet.” It should preferably be higher than
t I surrounding areas and have a slope of 2- to 10—percent so that -
1 cold air, like water, will flow down hill and away from the plant-
l ing. lf the fruit plants are in a low place, the fruit buds are likely
to be killed. This is especially true in the spring. It should also _
, be a fertile site if possible. Fruits thrive best in fertile soil, but _
. they will give good returns on average soil. This is especi21ll}’  l
i true of strawberries and other small fruits. If the soil lacks 01*
  4

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\} ganic matter, it can be improved by heavy applications of barn- {
if p yard manure and by plowing under green—manure crops. i I
1 SELECTION OF VARIETIES e
l Quality 3
j Select only those varieties that have proved their merit T
· through the test of time and are of high quality. Many varieties
r not suited for commercial production are good in the home gar-
den. t
S Succession of ripening
? Several varieties of the same kind of fruit maturing at differ- S
r ent times should be planted to prolong the season. For instance,
different varieties of peaches mature from early until late in the
f season, so that fresh fruit is available for as long as three months.
A Everbearing strawberries make it possible to have fresh fruit all I
\, summer. Fresh apples may be had practically the year around
` Q by planting the proper varieties.
I
V Special uses
Such characteristics as adaptation for freezing, canning, or
for jams and jellies, should be taken into consideration. For ex-
jl ample, early peaches are not as good for canning as midseason 1
. j and later varieties. Some varieties, such as Redhaven and Hale-
  haven, do not turn brown when frozen and exposed to air. Some I
i strawberry varieties freeze better than others, while another var-
  iety may make a better preserve, or is more tasty eaten fresh. ]
E Those that are firm, have good flavor, and are well colored
S   throughout usually freeze well; those that are softer and sweeter (
may be preferred when eaten fresh or for jam.
Winter hardiness
The ability to withstand cold is important in fruits prone to (
I winter injury. ‘
  Disease resistance
i If a plant disease is a problem in a particular area, diseasv- ‘
resistant varieties should be selected. Bartlett pears, for example, 5
2 cannot be successfully grown in Kentucky because of fire blight.
· L However, there are varieties that are resistant enough to be
j grown successfully in this area. Red stele of strawberries is H '
  6

 1l'U· . fungous disease that can ruin strawberry production where it is
( present unless resistant varieties are planted.F
I The following table lists varieties of fruit, in the order of rip-
ening, recommended for Kentucky. The considerations listed
 F above, namely, quality, succession of maturity, adaptability, cold
lem l resistance, and disease resistance were taken into account;
zties
gar— 1 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
(R) red (2) Fire blight resistant
(Hep (Y) yellow (3) Red stele resistant
mee, . (W) white (4) best eaten raw
1 th€ (1) Use red sports where available
  A1>1>LEs (1)
mud Early Transparent (Y) or Lodi (Y)
Summer McIntosh (R), Wealthy (R), Polly Eades (Y),
]onathon (R)
Fall Stayman Winesap (R), Turley (R), Delicious
g> O1! 1 (R) (4), Golden Delicious (Y) (4), Rome
’l· 6x` Beauty (R)
Eg; PEARS (2) Tyson (4), Maxine, Waite, Kieffer
Some PEAc1-ms Mikado (4), Red Haven,- Golden Iubilee, Hal-
r var- - haven, Georgia Belle (W), Elberta
fresh. PLUMs French Damson, Green Gage, Stanley Prune,
rlored Italian Prune
(6em Cnizruuxzs
. Sweet Gov. Wood, Napoleon, Windsor
Sour Early Richmond, Montmorency
me to GRA1>12s
A Black Fredonia, Concord, Sheridan
White Portland, Niagara, Golden Muscat
Lseasc-   Red Caco, Lucile, Lindley, Delaware
rmplc, V STRA\VBERRY
blight A IWW Blakemore, Temple   Fairfax, Tennessee
tO_ bt   _ Beauty
is 15 A   Everbearing Gem or Superfection
7

 l it
` RASPBEBBY V
V Black Morrison, Logan, Cumberland t
_ . Red Latham, Indian Summer (everbearing) (j
2 Purple Sodus or Cardinal *
I BLACKBERMES Early Harvest, Eldorado, Brainerd (trellis)
GOOSEBERRIES Downing, Poorman, Glendale tj
i i CURRANTS Pred Lake or Wilder S
_ e
CHOOSING NURSERY STOCK t
r Reputable nursery S
I Order plants only from reputable nurseries. That is the best ti
insurance that plants will be true to name, well-grown, free from ‘  
insects and diseases, and packed and shipped correctly. F ll
e
, Size and age of trees
. Buy only vigorous trees. One-year—old stock, if well grown. C
  is usually the best, not because it costs less, but because the trees L
’ establish themselves sooner, have not been pruned in the nur-
sery, and can be shaped by the grower with a minimum of cut- I l'
ting (see Fig. 3). }
I Small fruit plants should be ordered with the same attention
p 7 to securing well grown, vigorous plants.
  When to order
I V Get plant orders in early so that they will be filled as speci·
r fied. If ordering is delayed, the supply of some varieties may be
_ r exhausted, only second grade material be left, or the order may
  arrive too late for the best planting time. Specify on the order
blank the time of shipment preferred. Fruit trees are best planted
in the fall, hence this order should be made during the summer.
Small fruits do best when planted in the spring. Therefore. or-
. l der them in early or mid-winter.
  Care of stock
I Immediately upon arrival of the stock, it should be inspected. `
_ Check to see if the proper varieties and numbers were sent. Als0.
= check on the sizes, development, and the condition of the plants.
» They should come packed in a damp material, such as spliagnum
i moss, peat moss, or wood shavings. If planting is contemplnT€ lv     I , ’   ·
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)l£1t€`d ll [lg l-—lf Pl¤l1l’l¤g of nursery stock must be delayed more thun three days, it should
V e heeled nn.
I  9

 li ESTABLISHING THE FRUIT GARDEN ».
l _ Preparation of the Soil A k
  Tree fruits t.
A Since fall planting is recommended for fruit trees, the soil
S must necessarily be prepared in the fall. The land may be pre- ii
. pared in September and sowed t0 a cover crop, such as barley or f
T rye, to prevent washing. The trees may then be planted at any ri
time during dormancy.
Small fruits C
, The recommended time for planting small fruits is in the » g
p early spring. The soil should be plowed the preceding fall and , {
` left in the rough. Spring plowing is satisfactory, but the ground t
is often so wet at that time that plowing cannot be done until E
the best time for planting is past. Fall—plowed ground works
\~ down to a good bed with a minimum of effort. It can be disked 1.
, or harrowed when it is still too wet for plowing. I
it Land that has been in sod may require special treatment. (See t
Grub Control, page 18.) \
` i
. Planting r
V   Importance of a plan S
  A planting plan showing the location of the different varieties
t is essential. If this is not done, trees are almost sure to lose their I
g identity as far as the grower is concerned. The plan may be put \
  in a notebook, used also for making a record of various things (
I to be done in the fruit garden. A copy of the plan drawn on an t
A inside wall of the garage or barn will insure against its loss.
When the plan is made, stakes should be put down where the A
plants are to be set. ‘
. I Tree fruits  A s
3 The roots of trees should be kept moist and protected from the _ <
l drying effects of the air at all times during planting. This may r l
T be done in several ways. They may be kept in water or covered 1
g with burlap or straw, but perhaps the best way is to lay each one l
. A near where it is to be planted and then cover the roots with S 1
  moist soil. ‘ ‘
  E
  10
E .

 The hole should be dug large enough so that the roots can
be fanned out without crowding, and deep enough so that some
top soil can be put in the bottom of it.
soil ' All broken roots should be cut off with a slanting cut on the
pre- under side so that it will shed water better and heal more quickly.
y or Roots that are twisted together should be separated, or one re-
any moved.
Fruit trees, with the exception of dwarfs, should be set slightly
deeper (1 to 2 inches) than they were in the nursery.
In planting dwarf trees, care must be taken to see that the
the graft union is above ground. If it is below, the part above the
aud - union may throw out roots and destroy the dwarfing effect of
mnd the root stock. Incline the tree slightly in the direction of the
until prevailing wind so it will not blow over.
’0YkS After the tree has been adjusted to the proper depth and the
Sked roots are fanned out, they may be covered with Hne soil and
packed well with the feet so that no air pockets are left to dry
(See them out. A small mound may be left around the trunk over
winter for protection and water drainage. It should be removed
l in the spring, and the soil slightly dished so the tree may receive
more water.
Small fruits
ietifs Brambles and bush fruits should be planted in the same man-
thm  I Her as trees. Strawberries should be set with the crowns flush
6 Put V with the surface of the soil. If planted too deeply they will not
hmgs d0 well; if planted too shallow the roots will dry. Otherwise, use
UH an the same good practices described for tree fruits.
Q_ .
*`€‘th€  3 Soil Management
s A fruit garden is a long-time project and special attention
p ‘ should be given to the management of the soil before and after
m the establishing the planting. A plentiful supply of organic matter
S may _ is Gssential for best plant growth. If the soil is lacking in this
jvered i Yegiifd, it should be built up by heavy applications of manure,
;h one Z by gl`€€H manure crops, or by a combination of both. Organic
; with j matter greatly improves the structure, increases aeration and the
_ water-holding capacity of soils, and supplies nutrients for the
A growing plants. There are several methods of soil management
A 11

 .i E
  that will accomplish the desired aim of maintaining soil fertility. `
lt p The grower may follow the one that best suits his conditions. ;
  Tree fruits Q
Socl and Mulch.- For the home gardener, this is probably the A
best method of maintaining soil fertility around fruit trees. The I
mulch should extend as far as the limbs and should be from 6 to
1 8 inches or more deep. The mulch conserves moisture, keeps `
4 the soil cool, and adds organic matter. However, it may be a ?
` harboring place for mice, and special care should be taken to *
combat this pest (see page 18). Vxlhere mulches are used, the p l
r amount of fertilizer should be increased about 50 percent (see `
. page 14). Mulches of any organic material may be used to good I
advantage with any of the other systems of soil management
Grass clippings, hay, straw, strawy-manure, sawdust, corn cobs,
and the like are all good mulch materials.
lt Socl and cultivation.- Fruit trees may be planted in permanent 1
· ,1 sod with cultivation around the trees or in strips along the rows. .
l The cultivated area should extend slightly beyond the ends of the f
branches. The sod crop may be grass or legume or both. Blue- ;
grass, orchard grass, Ladino clover, lespedeza, and the like are
  good sod crops.
E Cover Crop and Cultivation-A cover crop, such as rye or
A   barley, is planted in September and allowed to stay on the soil *
  during the winter. It protects the soil from erosion and furnishes ’
- some protection to the tree roots. The cover crop is disked down ‘
  in the spring before it competes too heavily with the trees for ?
A l water and nutrients. As it decays, it furnishes the needed 01`· Y
T ganic matter. The soil is then cultivated until time for another *
cover crop. '
Cover Crop, Green Manure and Cultivation.- After a cover l
crop is disked down in the spring, as described above, the ground .
T [ is cultivated until about ]une, when a green-manure crop of cow- l
  peas or soybeans is planted. Each is a legume and has the l
l capacity of taking a large part of its nitrogen from the air. After l
this crop is plowed under or disked down and incorporated i¤ l
¥ the soil, the cover crop again follows for winter protection. I
" Intercropping.- While the trees are small the grower HWY
  want to conserve space by growing other crops between the r0W$· l
  12

 nity ` This is permissible as long as they do not interfere with the trees’
_ growth. When the trees get so large that intercropping is no
longer feasible, one of the above systems of soil management may
. be initiated.
y the ~
The ‘- Small fruits
6 to _ The maintenance of soil fertility is of even greater importance
{oops . with small fruits. A heavy mulch (6 to 10 inches) should be
bo o · maintained in the bramble plot (see Fig. 11, page 27). This may
on to completely cover the area, or areas between rows may be left
_’ the _ bare. Organic matter may be added to strawberry plots by the
(Soo use of barnyard manure and by green manures if enough land
good is available for rotation.
nent.
Cobs) Irrigation
If an adequate supply of water is available, irrigation will pay
anent A better in quantity production of large, high-quality fruits than
rows. any other practice. This is especially true of the small fruits.
of the Excellent results may be had by the use of an ordinary lawn
Blue- sprinkler.
:6 me Fartilizing
·ye or The fertilizer needs of fruit plants, grown on different types
ie soil Of soil and on soils of varying degrees of fertility, are impossible
nishes to pin down to one recommendation. Some types of soil high in
down organic matter and available nutrients may need very little added
es for fertilizer, while another soil may need heavy applications. The
ed or- plants themselves are the best indicator of their needs. If they
nother show vigorous growth and dark green foliage, their fertilizer re-
quirements are being met. If they are unthrifty with pale foliage,
cover they need high-nitrogen fertilizer.
tround V Fruit plants grown on soil of average fertility need nitrogen
l cow- more than any other nutrient. However, too much nitrogen will
as the throw the plant into a highly vegetative state and cause it to be
After _ Unfruitful. Since the requirements of the various types of fruits
Ltcd in - are different, they will be considered separately.
_ . Fruit trees
,r may V Ba1`¤Y&1`d manure is probably the best fertilizer that can be
3 rows, T “S€d f0f fruit trees. It not only furnishes nutrients, but also adds
_ 13

 . 1   r
11 organic matter to the soil. It may be supplemented by chemical 1 *
j1 y fertilizers if the tree’s condition seems to warrant their use.  . *
j j Fruit trees grown under any of the systems of soil manage- 1
Q ment, with the possible exception of manure mulches, will need ‘ 1
nitrogen fertilizers. Ammonium sulphate or ammonium nitrate ]
is commonly used. The amount will depend upon the fertility 1 4
of the soil and the age of the tree. On a soil of average fertility, - 1
' use about M1 pound per year of tree age. Thus, a tree five years 1
1 old would receive 1% pounds, and a tree 20 years old would re- 1
ceive 5 pounds. This amount can be adjusted up or down accord- 1
1 ing to the tree needs. Where a strawy-manure mulch is used, the
1 amount probably will be less, but where a hay, sawdust or other
, organic mulch is used, the amount will probably be 1% times ‘
the normal requirement. The fertilizer should be applied in the ,
early spring just as growth starts. It should be spread evenly r j
from near the trunk to the ends of the branches or slightly be- E
jj yond. Sometimes it may be advantageous to apply half of the ` j
~ _1 fertilizer in the spring and the other half about mid—summer. ,
1 It is good practice to fertilize green manure and sod cover 1
crops so that they will make good growth and thus add more
j organic matter to the soil. They will need a complete fertilizer. 1
Q Brumbles 1
1   When bramble crops are mulched as indicated above, they a
  will need fertilizer, also. If a strawy manure is used, they may 1 1
1 need very little, but if other organic mulches are used, a nitrogen ]
j fertilizer will have to be added. The usual recommendations for ‘ s
j brambles grown without mulches is 200-400 pounds per acre. · 1
1 This is 14 to 28 pounds per 100 feet of row. This amount may _ 1
have to be increased when any mulch other than manure is used. S
Bramble canes should be about as large as the thumb and have a 1
healthy green color. lf it is lacking, the nitrogen needs to be _ 5
_ increased. The same kind of fertilizers used for fruit trees may · 5
1 be used. . j
  Strawberries
Strawberries require a soil rich in available nutrients. Manure 1
_ plowed under in the fall preceding planting is one of the 19651 1 1
. fertilizer practices that can be followed. Six hundred to 101111 1
  pounds per acre of a complete fertilizer, such as 6-8-6, should be · 1
  14
j .

 lical worked into the soil before planting. This will supply the plants
with adequate nitrogen and other nutrients for the production
age} _ of new plants. Strawberries should never have nitrogen applied
wed in the fall or spring preceding cropping. After cropping, a com-
mm plete fertilizer may be added. About 500 pounds of 6-8-6 per
iility y acr·e should be used, depending on the soil’s fertility. Many
mtv, growers have observed beneficial results from applying a fertilizer
,€a,.S high in potash and phosphorus in February preceding cropping.
1 1.€_ It may be used at the rate of about 1,000 pounds of 0-10-10 per
.O1.d_ acre, spread on top of the row.
, the
ther PEST CONTROL
imes  S The commercial program for insect and disease control in-
1 the volves so many different materials and specialized directions that
’€UlY l it is not practical for the home-fruit gardener. However, if he
’ b€‘ should wish to follow the regular commercial schedule, it may
E the be obtained by requesting Circular 487 from the College of Agri-
1'· culture and Home Economics. Or, see Circular 353, “Sprays for
?OV€" the Home Fruit Garden.”
more i
mer. One-package sprays
Several all-purpose fruit sprays have been developed for the
home gardener. They are formulations consisting of fungicides
they and insecticides and are about 80 percent as effective as the com-
may U mercial programs of control. These sprays are suited for use on
rogerr T practically all fruits. Satisfactory control of insects and disease
rs for should result if the directions on the package are followed as to
acre. both amounts and times of spraying. The one-package plan has
: may _ the great advantage of being simple and easy to use. These are
used. summer· sprays only, and a few other sprays will have to be ap-
ave a “ plied for certain insects and diseases. Table 2 on page 16 lists the
to be , sprays that should be applied in addition to the all-purpose
; may Sprays.
Spraying equipment
There are many types of sprayers on the market that are prac-
anure  c tical for the home fruit gardener. The wheelbarrow type shown
3 best  , in Fig- 2 iS suitable for most plantings. VVhile trees are small, or
1000 r if dwarf trees are planted, a 3-gallon knapsack sprayeriis satis—
ild be j f3Ctory_
r 15 `

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