xt7q5717nn41 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7q5717nn41/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station.  journals kaes_circulars_004_547 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 547 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 547  2014 true xt7q5717nn41 section xt7q5717nn41 {WN `
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Qgg; RASPBERRY CULTURE
mit;} IN KENTUCKY
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  UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY
  COII.ege of AgrIcuItI1re und·Home Economics
" "' Agrnculturul Extensuon Servnce

 C O N T E N T S
Page
Soil and Fertilization ...,.....,..............................,......... 3 I
Varieties ................................................,................... 4
Propagation .....................,..,...........,,.......................... 4
Planting and Cultivation .,....................,....................... S
Mulching .......... . ..................................,.........,...,........ S
Pruning and Training ...........,....,,................................ 6
Cane Removal .,..........r,............,................................. 9
Winter Injury .......,,.......4................,.......................... 9
Diseases ...................................,............,..................... '|0
Insects and Other Pests .................,.......................,.... I`|
Spray Schedule .............................,........,.................., I2

 Raspberry Culture in Kentucky
By C. S. Waltman
Not enough raspberries are grown in most parts of Kentucky to
supply the local demand, thus providing opportunity for farmers in
such areas to grow raspberries for home use and local market.
Raspberries grow and yield well in most parts of the state and be-
gin to bear the second season after they are planted. Because their
— native home is in the cool climate of the north, however, special care
is necessary to get best results in Kentucky. Raspberry culture in
the state has declined during the past several years, chiefly because
of an increase in certain diseases. Disease injury. however, can be
prevented. or greatly reduced, by proper plant selection and timely
treatment with a simple spray program.
New canes of raspberries grow one season, produce fruit the fol-
lowing season. and then die after harvest. The roots and crown
live for several years and each spring produce a new crop of canes,
while the fruit is maturing on the canes that grew the season before.
Under favorable conditions, if given proper care, a raspberry plant-
ing may produce during a period of from 8 to 12 years. Plantings
made on poor sites and receiving poor care often die out after $3 to 5
years. Highest yields generally are obtained by making a new planting
on fresh soil every 4 or 5 years.
SOIL AND FERTILIZATION
A deep. fertile soil. high in humus. and well—draine_ ;_<»’;= X3   `¤
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Fig. l.—- Block raspberry cones before being pruned.

 H.·\S1’B1£l\l{Y CULTURE IN KEN'1`UCK\' 7
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Fig. 2.- Some plunt os shown in Fig. l, ufter being pruned. Five or six
vigorous cones per hill should be left for fruiting, ond the luterols
shortened to o length of l0 to l2 inches.
set to stand about 21 ·, leet above the rround. Fasten cross arms of
~ &
2” x 4" pieces, 2 feet long, to the posts and run a wire through or
fasten it to each end of the cross arms. Then pull the canes and
ffllltlllg SllOOtS l)Ct\V(*(’ll l'll(‘ t\V() \VlI`CS. \VlllCll \\’lll Slll)P()l't tll(?lll.
SOIUG g1`O\V€1'S ll21V(? l)G(*ll VCl`y Sll(JCCSSl'lll lll gl`()\\’lllg lll(‘Sl‘ I`tlS])l)(‘l`l`l(‘S
without supports, by cutting the canes back to about 2 feet.
Early each summer when the new shoots are about 2 leet tall,
pinch oll the growing tip. This makes the canes stocky. and at the
SEUTIG tllll(* CZIUSCS Sl(lC l)I`HllCll(‘S to gl'()\V, gl`(’iltly lllCl'C2lSlllQ lllC l)C2ll`-
ing surface of the plants. The following spring. prune the simle branches
to 2l.l)Ollt   OI`   lI]CllCS. I)(flCI`lUlll(¥ tl`lC lll1llll)(’l” Oli C&lll(‘S l() l(¥llVQ
by the vigor of the plants and the richness of thc soil. Ordinarily
l€2l\`€ fI'()lll -l· U)   Cllll(*S l)(’I`   lll f.[('ll('Till. pflllllllg (l(’Cl'(Z2lS(;‘S

 8 Cin<;L‘1..~.n 547
the number of berries and increases the individual size. A common
mistake in pruning black raspberries is leaving the side branches t00 ‘
long. By so doing, more fruit buds are left 0n the plants than can be
grown into well—devel0ped berries. n
Red Raspberries
T/ie /1iII Si/.S'f(’IIl~—ll(‘(l raspberries are not so easily grown in a hill
system as black raspberries because they form new canes from their
roots. llowever. if one removes the new plants when they appear V
outside the hill area, red raspberries can be trained in this way with-
out too much additional attention. Plant G' x 6’. Leave 8 to 10
vigorous canes per hill in the spring and tie to a stake. Remove all .
the rest. Top the vigorous canes in the spring at a height of 5 or 5%
feet. [leading them back more than this removes some of the most
productive area of the canes.
'I`/ie Il(’([,L{(’l'(JlL*.-—TllL‘ most common method of training red rasp-
berries is the hedgerow system. Narrow the row to 18 to 24 inches
and thin the canes until those left for fruiting average about 10 canes
for each 4 fcet of row. Leave only the vigorous canes, and prune
them back to about 5 feet.
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Fig. 3.- Red raspberry canes before being pruned, in hedgerow system
of training.

 RASPBERIKY Cursrumz nv Kizwrucxy 9
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Fig. 4.- Some cones us in Fig. 3, ufter being pruned. The most vigorous
‘ canes were shortened to u height of ubout 5% feet, und thinned to
ubout I0 cones per 4 feet of row.
Donit pinch off the tips of the red raspberries in sruniner, because
they have little tendency to forin side branches, and they don`t respond
well to this practice. In addition. pinching causes more suckers.
In the spring take out the weak and dead canes. and prune the
vigorous ones to a height of about 5 feet.
CANE REMOVAL
Since the fruiting canes of all kinds of raspberries normally die
after harvest, it is best to remove and burn these canes as soon as
harvest is over. This is imvortant because if not removed the old
1 r
canes often spread diseases to the young canes. Bits of old canes left
on the ground may be a source of cane-blight infection. If anthrac-
nosc was not controlled earlier. remove severely aflected new canes
when removing the old canes.
WINTER INJURY
Kentucky raspberry plantings often have heavy loss of canes dur-
ing winter. The reason for this is not completely understood, Init it is
thought to bc a combination of disease. insect. and winter injury. Dur-

 lf) Ciiuzoisxiz 547
ing warm spells in late winter, canes and buds lose much of their re-
sistance to cold. lf these mild spells are followed by near zero weather
in February or Nlarch, much injury results. Also, injury not caused
hy any one cold spell often occurs. Vigorous canes, free of insect and ·
disease injury, have the best possibility of coming through the winter
in good condition.
DlSEASES‘
Anthrucnose
This disease, which is especially troublesome on black raspberries, _
causes oval or circular, grayish-white scabby spots on the CHYIQS. It
often girdles the canes before the crop matures causing the berries
to dry up. It is especially important, therefore, to plant only stock that ·
is free from this disease. Before taking new black or purple plants to
the field for setting, cut off the stubs of the old canes attached to the
young plants below the ground level, and burn them. This keeps them
from infecting the new shoots with anthracnose and cane blight. Apply
delayed dormant spray (see page 12) when the leaves are showing
green, or when they are about M, inch long. Red raspberries are less
likely to be seriously damaged by anthracnose than black and purple
varieties, but sprays should he applied if there has been much anthrac-
nose on the plants. `
Crown Gull
This disease causes galls to form on the roots and lower part of the ·
cane. It is especially common on red raspberries, but also injures
black and purple varieties. Cut out and burn affected plants found
in the patch.
Cane Blight
This disease may cause extensive damage to black rasberry canes
during the fall and winter. Remove and burn all old canes and cane
parts immediately after harvest, and also any plants already made
unproductive by the disease. Remove canes and burn them whenever
the disease shows up, After the disease has become established on a
plant there is no means of control.
Virus Diseases
Rlaek and purple raspberries should not be planted closer than 300
feet to red raspberries, because mosaic diseases are spread by plant ·
lice from the reds to blacks and purples. Red raspberries are not
seriously injured by the various mosaics. but black raspberries are.
Nlake new raspberry plantings only from plants known to be free of
l This seetion is by \\'. I). Valleau, Plant Pathologist of the l·{entueky Agricul-
tural lixperinient Station.

 Rasvismmr Cerreiue ix Krzxrcczkr 11
_ mosaic or similar virus diseases. If mosaic or other virus diseases
are found in a planting, thoroughly flame the affected plants with a
torch to destroy all insects, and then dig the plants out and burn
— them. Mosaic can be recognized by its mottling of the leaves. Other
virus diseases may cause dwarfing. leaf curl, or die-back. \Vhat ap-
pears to be a virus disease of black raspberries often cause very
vigorous plants but nearly complete failure to set fruit. Remove
these sterile plants, using the precautions recommended for removal
of mosaic plants.
INSECTS AND M|TES‘
Mites
i Light colored, speckled and slightly curled foliage on raspberries,
especially in dry seasons, is caused by very small, yellowish or reddish
mites often called “red spiders.” To control these pests, make 2
applications a week apart, of aramite. 1% lh. per 100 gallons, directing
the spray at the undersides of the leaves where the mites are most
numerous. lf preharvest applications are used, at least 14 days must
elapse between the last application and harvest. Never use sulfur
sprays to control mites on raspberries. because even the mildest sulfurs
applied in summer cause severe loss of leaves.
Red-Necked Cane Borer
The larva of this small red-and-black beetle is long and Hat-headed.
` It bores within raspberry canes and causes swellings from 1 to 3
inches in length. lnfested canes die or are severely weakened. The
best method of control is to cut out and burn all affected canes before
May, as the adults emerge in May and june. As this insect also
breeds in blackberries and dewberries. destroying nearby wild brain-
bles will aid in control.
Adults can be killed, just before blooming or immediately after
harvest, by spraying with 4 pounds of lead arsenate plus 4 pounds of
hydrated lime, or 2 pounds of 50 percent DDT wettablc powder in
1()0 gallons of water per acre.
Raspberry Cane Borer
Numerous freshly wilted tips on young raspberry shoots are a
sign of cane borer. The adult, a yellow and black long-horn beetle,
‘ causes the tips to die by making two rows of pnnctures around
each shoot about   inch apart and laying a single egg in the shoot
between the two girdles. Removing freshly wilted tips below the
lower girdle gets rid of the eggs before the borers hatch and thus
  section has been prepared and revised by the Department of Entomol-
ogy and Botany, Kentucky Agricultural Experiinent Station.

 l2 C1nc;U1.,~.n 547
saves many canes. The borer hatching from each egg burrows down-
ward in the cane and remains there for two seasons before it changes
to the adult. Because of the long life cycle of the borer, removal of
weakened canes and of all old canes after fruiting is a good control
measure.
1/Vliere pruning does not prevent serious injury, apply a spray Con-
taining 2 pounds of 50 percent DDT wettable powder, or -1 pounds
of arsenate of lead plus 4 pounds of hydrated lime in 100 gallons of
water per acre. This spray should he applied just before the blossoms
open. ll it is necessary to spray after the fruit has begun to form, use `
5 pounds of derris (5 percent rotenone) plus 0.5 pound of skimmilk
powder in 100 gallons of water. This should he applied when the last _
petals are falling.
RASPBERRY SPRAY SCHEDULE
To
No. Applieation Materials (100 Gallons) Control
l I)r·/ruled f)Ul`l}lllIIf·—1ll early spring Liquid lirne-sulfur- Anthraenose
wlnen l>uds are beginning to open. I2 gallons Scale
2 I’re]1/oorn——r·\pply at l0—day inter- Captan or Ferlnain with Anthracnoso
vals from time new growth is 4-5 sticker, 2 lh; Lead ar- Saw Hies
inelies long until well after lalooin. senate. 2 lh in full leaf
5; Pos! Blomn—l·\ J >lv 7 da s after Cautan, 2 ll); Lead ar- Anthracnosc
ll . Y l
leaves are fully expanded. senate. 2 lb Saw flies
—l I’o.s·! lIr1rr¢·st——.»\pply $3 sprays at (laptan, 2 ll); Aramite,
2 to fl week intervals as soon as \\`.P. 1[/Q lb
old canes are removed. Anthracnosc
Xlitcs
Precuutionz Never use sulfur sproys of ony kind on rospberries
inthe summer.
Note: lt mites occur during fruiting opply oromite for control;
0 minimum of l4 doys between lost sproy opplicotion ond horvest
should be observed.
l,e\nn;ton. k<·ntiu·k)‘ Xia); 1057
Cooperatwe Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics: College of Agriculture
and Home Economics, University of Kentucky, and thc United States Department of
Agriculture. cooperating. Frank J. Welch, Director. Issued in furtherance of the Acts of
May 8 and June 30. 1914.
Issued as Circ. 471. G»»17; to 556. 15M. ltevised and re-issued as Circ. 547. 3-57. 10\l.