xt7stq5r9h4c https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7stq5r9h4c/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1931 journals kaes_circulars_248 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 248 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 248 1931 2014 true xt7stq5r9h4c section xt7stq5r9h4c - COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
.  Extension Division
Q  THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director
{ CIRCULAR NO. 248
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»  RENOVATION OF MILLINERY
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  Lexington, Ky.
October, 1931 V
 
Published in connection with the Agzgricuiturul Extension work carried
on by cooperation of the College of Agriculture, University of Kentucky,
with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, and distributed in furtherance
· of the work provided for in the Act of Congress of May 8, 1914.

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mi

 CIRCULAR NO. 248
Renovation of Millinery
By ISABELLE M. STORY
Nothing detracts more from a satisfactory general appear-
ance than a dowdy out-of·shape hat; yet few women give even
_ their best hats the care necessary to keep them in good condition
thruout one season. A hat that is brushed and put away care-
fully each time after it is worn will retain its freshness and
color much longer than if left exposed to light, and dust—laden
air. An occasional sponging with carbon tetrachloride or a
similar solvent, will keep the·parts of the hat that come in con-
tact with the head or the hair from becoming grease soaked. A
hat crown should be kept on a mold or else be stulfed with tissue
paper to preserve its shape. If it is then rested on a stand or a V
form of the same shape as the brim, the desired droop of the
brim will be kept. Such forms can be quickly and easily made
by rolling cardboard to form a cone and then leveling the cone
at each end.
RENOVATION OF FELT HATS i
_ A felt or fabric hat, either trimmed or untrimmed, may be
home dryeleaned by washing it in naphtha, white gasoline or
drycleaning solvent. The work should be done out of doors
and away from fire. Use a deep vessel and sufficient solvent to
allow the hat to be worked up and down in it without crushing.
A second or rinsing bath should follow, and if the hat is very
dirty, a third also. Take the hat from the rinsing bath, drain
and place it on a standard in the open air to dry. Do not V
reblock until all traces of the cleansing Huid have evaporated. H
About twenty-four hours will be necessary for this.
WASHING A FELT HAT
A felt hat may also be washed, but if it is slashed for trim-
ming arrangement, or if the original shape of the hat is to be

 il
4 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 248 _
retained, it shouud be dry cleaned instead. Better grades of FOIL
felt hats are made of fur, less expensive ones are of wool. Felt hw {
hats should, therefore, be washed in the same way as woolen Wh?
garments. This means that the same temperature should be ‘
maintained in the successive baths used and that the soap should A block
not be rubbed on them. crown
To Wash. Make a strong suds by dissolving mild soap A may
Hakes in hot water and then add cold water until the tempera- cent]
ture of the water is lowered to a point a little above blood heat. · R8?
Wash the hat, from which the lining, band, etc., have been $316}
removed, by sousing it up and down in the suds for about iifteen `
minutes. Squeeze it out and carry it thru a second suds in the i pose
same manner. Rinse thru two waters and allow to partially dry Ei;}
before blocking.
After putting the hat on a block and cording it tightly at Oval
. the head size line, stretch the brim into the shape desired and Sufi
place the hat in the open air to dry. A day, or even longer, the,
may be required for it to dry thoroly. A hat will not retain its i 841,0,
shape if it is taken off the block before it is dry thru and thru. em,
Finish the surface of the hat, as described below, before remov-
ing from block. A faded hat is ready for re—dyeing only after it Sho.
has been washed as just described. Sho.
A man’s hat can be satisfactorily washed, dyed and re- Wpj
blocked for a woman’s hat. A very dirty or grease-soaked hat EXE
should first be soaked for about thirty minutes in a suds to which Oy
a tablespoonful of household ammonia has been added. hat
TO BLOCK A FELT HAT  
All hats, regardless of the materials of which they are com- tht
posed, must be more or less damp before they will conform to qu
the shape of a modeling block. In working over old hats one WO
often comes across a felt that is so stiff and heavy that it must da
be dipped into water to make it soft enough for blocking. The Ob
usual way for hats not too stiff, however, is to steam the hat over
the spout of a teakettle.
To Steam. Put a pint of water into a teakettle which has
a large base. Fit lid on tightly and bring the water to a rapid mi

 1 Renovation of Millinery 5
boil. Steam the hat from the inside by holding it close over the
live steam from the spout, turning the hat about the while.
A When it is thoroly damp it is ready for blocking. 1
V To Block. Stretch and pull the hat crown down over the
block until the hat fits the block smoothly and closely. lf the
crown does not slip over the block readily, additional steaming
may be necessary. If so, remove the hat from block and con-
centrate the steam at points where more stretching is needed.
A Repeat this until the hat can be made to mold the block smoothly
  and tightly at all points, especially at the tip and the head size
line. Now cord tightly at the head size line, using for this pur-
pose a stout window cord with a slip knot in one end. This can
be quickly and easily adjusted and it will hold firmly. Steam
the hat and stretch it to the desired shape.
To Finish Surface of Hat. With a stiff bristle brush go
over the outer surface of the hat until it is quite smooth. lf the
surface of the hat is very rough, first rub it with fine sandpaper,
_ then brush. Always begin at the tip of the crown and brush
A around and around in one direction working outward until the
‘ entire surface is smoothed evenly.
To Bnrnish. Soleil felts and others which have a heavy pile
should be polished also, to give them a lustrous surface. This
i should follow the brushing just described. For burnishing you _
will need a very hot iron so placed that its smoothing surface is
exposed, and a thick pad about six inches square made of drill
or other heavy cotton material that will not shed lint. If the
. hat has been allowed to dry after the steaming given it for block-
ing, moisten lightly with a cloth wrung out of water. VVith the
upturned surface of the iron convenient to your right hand, hold
» the pad against it until it is very hot, then transfer the pad
quickly to the hat and brush firmly, beginning at the tip and
working outward, as described above. Have surface of the hat V
damp and keep the pad very hot, if best results are to be (
obtained.
TO STIFTFEN A FELT HAT
A felt hat that is too soft to hold its shape satisfactorily
may be stiffened in the following manner. Make a sizing by

 fi
6 Kentucky Extension O'ircula.¢· N0. 248
dissolving a small quantity of white sheet glue (obtainable at follows
any hardware store) in a half pint of water by heating it over that th
a slow iire and stirring it constantly. (The weight of a twenty- solutiol
five cent piece in glue is sufficient for a hat of average size.) insure
Add to this one heaping tablespoonful of mild soap flakes and F,
stir until dissolved. Remove from {ire and cool sufficiently to bleach
bear your hand in it. immerse the hat, which should be clean the boi
and dry, in this sizing and work for about lifteen minutes,
kneading and squeezing it to force stiifcning into the felt. FI
Squeeze out, stretch and shape tl1e hat by hand, allow the hat to OY Ong
partially dry, then block and iinish   described above. OH_ in
pom s
TO ove A FELT 1-IAT EUHOW
Select a dye suitable for woolen material, and a color that hai?. ll
will cover the color already in the hat. If the hat is badly faded, dwlie
only a ve1·y dark color or black will give an even color. Follow moi;
l directions for dyeing woolen fabrics. lrgllui
TO RENEW A WHITE OR LIGHT-COLORED FELT  
Mei/cod 1, To Sconr. Rub the surface of the hat with a 1 Ream
line sandpaper, OO if it is available. This removes the soiled ‘ wma]
and faded surface and leaves the hat smooth and fresh, provided   l
the strokes made in scrubbing are all iu one direction.   _
Met/tod   Saturate corn meal with gasoline and rub the I this-
mixture into the felt with a stiff white brush. `Nhen the gasoline y but I
has all evaporated, shake the hat and brush out the corn meal. I 11;%
o
RENEWING STRAW, HAIR AND HENIP HATS if (I
A trimmed hat that shows signs of having been crushed mem
may be greatly improved by holding it over steam, using the (SGC
fingers meantime to adjust and reshape body and trimming
where needed. hats
Unless very much faded, the color of a hat may be greatly SON
improved by covering it with a cloth wrung out of a half pint of if L
water to which a tcaspoonful of ammonia has been added. When ’¤i1’¤'
the color is too far gone to restore by this process, dip the hat him
into tube paint and gasoline dye. (See \Vaterless l)ycing, which bm

 Renovation of Millinery 7
follows.) If one has a hat block of correct shape and size so
that the hat can be reblocked, the hat may be dyed in a water
‘ solution. The hat may be bleached preparatory to dyeing to
insure an even color or to change the color altogether.
For Bleaching. Follow the directions accompanying the
bleach used, except that the bleaching bath should be kept below
the boiling point.
For Dyeing. Select a dye that will color vegetable fibers,
or one that will color all fibers. Follow directions usually found
on the dye container, and in addition observe the following
points; (1) Use a very weak dye bath; (2) add the required
amount of salt when the dye bath is prepared; (3) place the
hat in a tepid bath and keep below boiling point until the
desired depth of color is obtained. Keep the hat constantly in
motion by agitating with a wooden spoon. When a dye bath
maintained at below boiling point is used much longer time is
required for even coloring than when boiling temperature is
maintained, and the hat must take up the dye very slowly to
insure an even color. Avoid crushing or breaking the hat.
l Remove the hat from the dye bath, immerse the hat in cold
, water, drain it for a few minutes, then block.
, Batik or Cold Water Dye also can be used successfully on _
l this type of hat provided one uses a very weak bath so that the
  hat will take up the dye slowly. Dyes with a shellac base are
l not, as frequently advertised, satisfactory for changing the color
of a hat, but can be used to advantage on hats of matching color,
if diluted with alcohol until very thin-about measure for
measure of alcohol and dye——and a very thin coat is applied.
(See directions following for "Sizing hair, straws, etc.")
To W ash Snnimcr Hats. Hair and other very open-mesh
hats may be washed by sousing them up and down in lukewarm, wl
soapy water for ten or fifteen minutes. Put thru a second suds i
if badly soiled, then rinse in tepid water. Drain for a short
time before blocking. Panama, leghorn and closely woven straw
hats can be more satisfactorily cleaned by scrubbing them with a
brush or cloth.

 8 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. .248
T0 Block Straw, Hair and Fiber Hats. If the hat is not panan
already wet, soften it by immersion in cold water for an instant wearii
and letting it drain for about five minutes. Hats of this type scrub
are very tender when wet, so care must be taken not to tear parts
them. The process is more of a pushing and molding with the hat v
hands than pulling and stretching as with felts. Mold the hat bleacl
to the block smoothly and cord at headsize line. Next stretch prepa
and mold the brim by hand to the shape desired, creasing it Make
sharply along the headsize line. Leave the hat on the block until sulfu
it is thoroly dry. Before removing from block mark the center brusl;
of front of crown with a knot of thread, and do not remove this block
marker until the hat is trimmed and ready for wear.
To Press Brion. Place a small section of the brim, wrong
side up, on an ironing board, and cover, Hrst with a dry cloth j
and then with a wet one. Press lightly with a hot iron to steam look
brim, remove wet cloth and press until dry. Keep point of iron ketll
` turned toward inside of brim, pressing only a small section of gmk
the brim at a time.   llglll
With the exception of leghorns and panamas, the hats of l
this group should be linished with a light coat of shellac to give l line
them luster and body. This is applied after the hat has been I feat]
removed from the block and its brim pressed and shaped. This   adde
process is called "sizing".   curl
To Size Straw, Hair, and Fiber Hats. White shellac should   stea
be used on white or light-colored hats, but either orange shellac dry.
or colorite of a matching color may be used on black or dark-
colored hats. Dilute the shellac until it is quite thin, using, best
generally, about an equal measure of alcohol and shellac or the
colorite. Apply to the hat with a flat, one-inch brush. With clot
only a small amount of the thinned shellac on the brush begin nap
at the tip of the crown and work out and around in circles, rub-
bing the shellac well into the fabric. Too much shellac on the
brush as well as too thick a shellac will prevent one ’s getting an
even coat and may also clog the mesh in hair or other openwork Slug
hats. Str;
To Bleach. A solution made by dissolving one teaspoonful Wh
of oxalic acid in a pint of water may be used to clean and bleach me

 _  Renovation of Millmery 9
panama and rough straw hats that have become yellow with
wearing. Apply the acid with a small scrubbing brush and
, scrub quickly, working out from the tip of crown, until all
parts of the hat have been reached. Rinse thoroly, and wipe the
hat with a cloth before blocking. Leghorn hats are seldom
y bleached, but if they become badly sunburned the following
preparation may be used, but it will not bleach them white.
Make a paste of the juice of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of
( sulfur. Apply this to the hat with a soft cloth. When dry,
brush off the powder. The hat may then be dampened and
blocked in the usual manner. .
TO FRESHEN FLOWERS
Flowers of silk, velvet, muslin or sateen can be made to
look as good as new by holding them in the steam from a tea-
kettle, eight or ten inches from the spout, and shaking them
gently. lf crushed they should be reshaped by molding them
lightly with the fingers.
1 To Olean Feathers. Wash the feathers in high-test gaso-
t line and shake them in the open air until they are dry. White
i feathers should be rinsed in gasoline to which iiour has been
  added (one tablespoon of Hour to one cup of gasoline). The
l curl in ostrich feathers may be restored by holding them in ·
  steam and then shaking them in the heat from an oven until
dry. If more curl is desired, use a warm (not hot) curling iron.
To Press Velvet. Wring a heavy pressing cloth (drill is
best) out of water and place over a hot, upturned iron. Hold
the velvet over the steaming cloth with wrong side next to the
cloth. As the velvet is steamed, brush it in the direction of the
nap.
WATERLESS DYEING ,»,
For tinting feathers, flowers, laces, maline, chiffon, velvet,
silk, satin, and summer hats of hair, hemp and light braids and
straw, use a bath made by dissolving tube paint in naptha or
white gasoline. It is difficult to obtain dark shades by this
method, and results are not satisfactory if applied to felt and

 10 Kentucky Eavteusieu Circular N0. 248 t  
othe1· heavy materials. Tube paints may be bought in a variety `
of colors, and by combining various colors almost any desired .
shade may be obtained.
Articles to be dyed should be clean and dry before dyeing. i
A gasoline-soaked article will not take up the dye properly, and i 
the least drop of water or moisture in the bowl or on the article i
to be dyed will cause poor results. ‘
Good paints in perfect condition flow freely and are easily ,
dissolved in gasoline. To test, remove top of tube and squeeze V
. out a small portion. Should it be solid and break off in small
pieces, do not buy or use it, as this indicates that it is not fresh.  
\Vork out of doors and away from tire. i   
To prepare dye bath, open the tube and squeeze a small V   
amount of paint into the bottom of a mixing bowl. Pour over  
this a small quantity of gasoline and mix and dissolve the paint
thoroly in it, using a small bristle brush or artist’s spatula.
i Continue to add gasoline in small quantities, blending thoroly
each time, until the mixture is q_uite thin. Strain this thru a _ V,.
closely-woven cloth into a large mixing bowl and add sufficient  
gasoline to cover the material to be tinted without crowding it. ·  
Dip into this a small sample in order to see the exact shade that \  
the dye will produce. Should it be too dark, add more gasoline;  
should it be too light, add more paint which has been blended 1  
with a small amount of gasoline, as just described. {  
Dip the articles to be dyed into this bath, exposing all parts ’  
equally to it. The dye penetrates very quickly and scarcely an  
instant is necessary to produce the desired depth of color. Fab- ja;
ries should be thoroly squeezed and hung up to dry out of doors.  
Flowers and other articles that will crush should have the excess
of liquid shaken out of them and then be placed to dry.
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