xt7vt43hzv43 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7vt43hzv43/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1931 journals kaes_circulars_243 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 243 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 243 1931 2014 true xt7vt43hzv43 section xt7vt43hzv43  
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
` Extension Division
i THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director
CIRCULAR NO. 243
The Vegetable Garden
Lexington, Ky.
March, 1931
Published in connection with the agricultural extension work car-
ried on by co-operation of the College of Agriculture, University of
lxeutucky, with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, and distributed
;`I;fll§ilm1‘aI1C€ of the work provided for in the Act of Congress of
· ily , 1914.

 CONTENTS
Page ‘
The Garden Plan ...........,.......»....,,...................................A..........................,. 2 .
Companion and Succession Cropping .........................,......_..... . ._.......,______ 4
Soil Management ..............r.............................,..............,............,................. 6
The seed .....................r.....................................,..............................._.............. 8
A Seedbeds .........................................,........................................................»......».. S
Cultivation .....i.......,»......................................................................................... 9 1
Crop Grouping ..................................................,............................,................ 9
Group (1) Perennials ,,_...........................,..................................................... 10
Group (2) "Cool" Sown Crops .................................,..............,............,...... 12
Group (3) "Cool" Transplanted Crops ...............4.........................._...._..., 13
Group (4) Greens and Salads ..................................................,.....,....1.......... 16
Group (5) The Root Vegetables v.................»..........,..>............................... 18
Group (6) "Warm" Sown Crops ................................................».......r....... 19
Group (7) "Warm" Transplantecl Crops ..........1..,.,.....__......,r,...,,.......,... 22
Group (8) Onions ..,......................................................,....,........._..._............. 24
Group (9) "Melon" Crops .............,...............................,.......,.(.._,.,...._,........ 26
Winter Storage of Vegetables ........_........1.......,....__.___.__,.,._,__,____,,_____,________.. 29

 CIRCULAR NO. 243
The Vegetable Garden
By JOHN s. GARDNER
`HEO V  
3 - Tl1e purpose of a vegetable garden is to provide an ample
4 supply of fresh vegetables for the family thruout the growing
6 season, and a surplus for canning or storing thru the remainder
8 of the year.
S
2 i THE PLAN
10 The way to start a garden is to make a plan. This is
12 especially desirable for small gardens, but any garden is more
13 satisfactory if the details are worked out before the planting.
16 time.
18 Planning is begun by measuring the garden and making i
19 a plat of it on paper. The plat should show any differences in
22 slope or nearness to trees, or other conditions that might affect
24 the vegetables in any way. This information will help in pla-
26 eing the various crops properly.
29 Next, the family’s tastes should be consulted as to what
A vegetables should be included, but the better known vegetables
should form the basis for the garden. However, there should be
included some of the more unusual crops, to assure variety. It  
is wise, too, to try to estimate the number of servings of vege-
tables to be made, in order to proportion the plantings of each.
Assuming that the garden is of average fertility and that
the family consists of tive persons for whom a serving would
be the equivalent of a quart of canned vegetables thc following
table will se1·ve as a guide.

 4 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 243
TABLE 1. PLANTINGS FOR FIVE PERSONS T,
   
Vegetable | Garden Space I Servings
I I
Beans II 30 feet I 10-12
Tomatoes I 20 plants I 50
Cabbage I 20 heads I 20
Beets I 50 feet I 30
Carrots I 50 feet I 30
Parsnips I 75 feet I 50-60 I
Corn I 100 hills I 25 ' -
I I =I
If beans are to be served five times a week for example,
30-foot plantings should be made every two weeks between
April 15 and August 1. From such plantings, surpluses for
canning will occur from time to time, but additional plantings
may be required to furnish a sufficient quantity for this pur- . A
pose. . th
Tomatoes, likewise, may be served fresh five times a week
for ten weeks, which is the average harvest season for a plant- SI
, _ ing of tomatoes. A second planting about the middle of June
will assure a supply of tomatoes for the table during the 1·e· III
mainder of the season, and for canning. The quantities of the
other vegetables in the list may be computed in the same way. (AI
COMPANION AND SUCCESSION CROPPING (I;
It must not be supposed that the total amount of the m
vegetables determined from Table 1 is to occupy the garden at
one time, but advantage should be taken of space secured thru S,
` the removal of early rows, for making later plantings. S]
The table that follows gives the length of time the more HI
usual vegetables occupy the garden; III
1:
II
I']
Il
ll'

 T/10 Verge/able Grzrden 5
TABLE 2. LENGTH OF TIME THAT THE GROUND IS OCCUPIED
` Beans ..............`........................... . ........»v.............»............. 50— 70 days
Beets ................I..............,.............................»..»................. 30- 60 clays
_ Carrots ..................».....».......................».....»..........I.....»,....... 50- 70 nays
Peas ...............»»,.................»..V........»-.·...............................,. 40- G0 days
Tomatoes ...........................`............................r............... about 80 days
Peppers .......».........».........·~r.........»v......»...............r»....»............ all season
Early cabbage ..................V......r...................................... 90-120 days
Early potatoes .......,...r.......................................L.._....r.... 120—150 days
Corn   ..........»................l...........».............lr...........,..,.......... 50— 60 days
V Ra(liSll€S .......lr..............r~....>.»....~............,..............L........... 25- 40 {lays
LettuCB ..............~.....................Y........»..................l............. 30— 40 days
- Early greens ..............,,................l,..,............................... 40~ 50 days
oh Pal‘S11iDS --~·-v - ·....-»--·-·..-r.--·...·r....--·......-»..-.............................. all season
ge]; Late gl`G€llS ............l.............»...................»............. from August 1 on
for _ _
Hg; Since our average gardening season in Kentucky begins
yup April 1 and ends October 1, that is, lasts 180 days, it is seen
that:
eek Late beans may follow early beans, early peas, and even
mp sweet corn.
um Late beets and carrots may follow early beans or early
W peas.
the Late greens (not ot the cabbage Tillllll_\') may follow early _
mv. <‘tll)]l&lg`(’.
` Late greens belonging to the cabbage family may follow
early potatoes.
Besides these, a number of other "suecession" schemes
the may be used, depending on the resourcefulness of the gardener
I at Another way to utilize garden space intensively is to plant
»hl`“ Small early maturing vegetables near those which are larger and
slower in maturing. The first are harvested anrl the second
lore illl0Wed to occupy the whole area, Examples are placing IOWH r
of lettuce, spinach or even green onions between those of cab-
bage. Tomatoes may be set in rows of peas; so may peppers.
lf radish seed and parsnip seed are sown mixed together, a full
<·rop of radishes may be harvested without injuring the pars·
nips. Salsify, or oyster plant, lends itself to the same arrange-
ments.

 G Kentucky Extcvrsirrn Crirculczr N0. 243 n
Place all permanent crops, as rhubarb, asparagus, horse. 100
radish, grapes and berries·to one side of the garden, to avoid Sow
interfering with the plowing. The same applies to parsnipr,
winter and spring greens, and salsify, which may be left during Som
the winter in the rows where they grew. The perennials should 0.,,,.,
be located in ground that drains freely, even in wet winter {Mt
weather. SO,.]
SOIL MANAGEMENT und
The planning done, the next consideration is the soil and its a dr
condition. Altho a sandy loam is ideal, it is not essential, for pro
even an undesirably tight clay may be transformed into a gool das
garden. Location rather than soil conditions govern the choice
of a garden plot. A nral
Most garden vegetables are prized because of their succnl reas
ence, and this depends on quick growth. Quick growth is so he `
cured thru an ample supply of moisture and readily available pecl
plant-food. To enable soil to hold moisture, it must be well
filled with "humus," or rotted vegetable matter. This 1na_r corn
come from straw, manure, a "green manure" crop of rye from larl
vegetable tops or even from weeds. The best of these is barn- Sin
yard manure, for it contains plant-food, and rots quickly. nsel
Excellent as manure is, it is not balanced in its plant- to]
food elements, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the pre-
portion most vegetables need. Fresh manure because of its isg
high nitrogen content. is a valuable fertilizer for sucl1 leaf croir rnal
as greens, cabbage or onions, but for the fruit and seed crops. grrr
it should be supplemented by phosphate fertilizers. ori
It is ditficult to give specific directions for. fertilizing lah
gardens in all parts of Kentucky, but here are a few general Sov
suggestions. is o
Plow under a two-inch coat of manure, follow with a disk. I
then _broa5‘ H
should be chosen with caution, however, and preferably only Si
when they are offered by more than one seedsman, or by the h
same seedsman for two years at least.
. SEEDBEDS _
i Many gardens are unsatisfactory because of poor seedhel if
preparation. Sometimes breaking is done when the soil is W" . T
wet; and, sometimes, too dry. Frequently, the operations that
should follow breaking a1·e neglected or hurriedly done, ant}
a eloddy seedbed may result.
No set rules can be given for making an ideal seedbed, but li
the speeiheations for a good one can be laid down. They are
that the soil particles should be as fine as the seed to be sown. E

 _¢  The Vegetable Garden 9
nure" F for a depth of a least two inches below the seed, or, better still,
mplete 3 to the depth of the plowed soil.
actor); ‘ The general rules for preparing a seedbed start with break-
to 100 ing the soil as deep as possible, turning the manure under. Next,
e same should follow a thoro disking, to cut the furrow slices fine. Then,
the commercial fertilizer should be broadcast and worked in,
· by smoothing the seedbed with an A-harrow or a plank drag, or,
- better, with both.
iaclolt  _ The depth of seed sowing is determined by the size of the
GY _m`° ’ seed; the larger the seed, the deeper it may be sown. It has been
V*u`“’ll` determined by experiment that the proper depth is eight times
l°S> fol the thickness of the seed.
  CULTlVATi0N
actolm Cultivation should always be level. This is true even for
H€l_ali\_ g the earliest "cool" vegetables, but much more so for those
dm (il whose growing season extends into the dry weather of the sum-
mmkcd _ mer. Altho drawing a ridge to the row may be of benefit in an
yearm t‘Xll‘(‘llll’l}' wet season, it places a hardship on the vegetable
Or thi; roots later on by dropping the soil moisture level below them.
Cultivation should, likewise, always be shallow, or, if deep
1 upon stirring must be done to loosen iniddles that have become beaten
OH HN · down, it is important to stay beyond the reach of any roots. `
be dis lien<·rall_v speaking, a depth of working no greater than one—half
Tho, meh will sutiiee for uprooting the small weeds that may have
Ly OH], Started and to leave a broken surface that can absorb even any
by HQ light rain that falls.
- THE CROPS
The vegetables will be discussed in the approximate order
Sccdm Yllféy are planted in the garden.— Those which have similar eul-
1 is ,0,, 4 tural requirements may be grouped as follows:  
ns that Group 1. The Perennials (page 10). Asparagus Rhubarb.
ie, ani} Group 2. The "cool" sown crops (page 12). Peas.
Group 3. The "cool" transplanted crops (page 13). Cab-
ed, but l>¤§s
Om, 40"D€l`C€llf Nicotine SLllf2l.l',€,H "D0ch’s 40-percent Nicotine Slllfzile," Hlvl
others.

 14 Kemfucky Etvtensiion Gtrcitlar N 0. 243
plants are called "frost proof" because they are grown in the
field and have become "frost-hardy." Before he purchases
"frost proof" plants, however, the gardener should assure him-
self that they are free of the Clubroot and Black Rot, for these
diseases may be introduced into a garden by the use of infected
plants. Also "frost proof" plants should be examined carefully
for plant lice. If any lice are found, the plants should bc
dipped in a solution of nicotine sulfate prepared according to
the instructions on the container.
For the late crop, the plants are set toward the end of
June. Plants may be started in a seed bed four to six weeks
prior to setting time, or 2 or 3 seeds may be planted at each
place where a head is to stand, and the seedlings thinned to one.
Cauliflower does best in Kentucky as a spring crop. It
is handled exactly like cabbage, except that it is advisable to set
A it a week or so later. Cauliflower requires special treatment
while the head is forming. As soon as the "flower" head ap-
pears, four or five of the lower leaves of the plant should be
lapped over it and fastened with soft twine o1· with a tooth-
pick. This protection serves to keep the cauliflower white and
tender.
Both cabbage and cauliflower respond to fertilizing in
addition to the general fertilizer suggested (p. 6). Side-
dressing with chicken manure at the rate of a bushel to 200
heads, is recommended or, better still, with nitrate of soda, at
the rate of one pound to 100 feet of row.
Celery is handled in the same manner as cabbage, except
that when the plants are about half grown, the leaves should be
gathered together so they sta.nd upright, and held so by firm-
ing a low ridge of earth against them. Usually this is done
about 8 weeks after setting. Three or four weeks later, the .
summer and early fall varieties should be blanched by ex-
cluding light from the bases of the stalks, with boards or paper.
\Vinter varieties, such as Giant Pascal, usually are blanched
with a bank of earth. Blanching causes the green coloring mat-
ter of the stems to fade out and induces heart growth. The
sharp flavor of green celery is toned down, as well.

 V ·`  B
The Vegetable Garden 15
le Pests. The cabbage worm is the most serious pest on cab-
BS bage and cauliflower, but it is effectively controlled by using
1_ ersenicals. The best method is dusting, altho a spray applied
M as a mist fine enough to stick may be used.
_d The dust is:
y 1 pound of calcium arsenate,
lc 6 pounds of ine lime.
Z0 The spray is:
1 tablespoonful of lead arsenate,
K 1 gallon of water.
(S Two diseases trouble these crops. They are Black Rot and
lh "yellows". Those who grow their own plants may insure them-
8. selves against the Black Rot by treating the seed. The pro-
H eedure is as follows:
it 1. Dissolve one 7% grain tablet of bichloride of mercury
It in one pint of water. (This solution corrodes metal; only
)_ wooden or crockeryware containers should he used.) Bichloride
le is a deadly poison, but does not burn the hands.
1_ 2. Put the seed into ·a cloth bag, and wet thoroly.
d 3. Dip in the solution for 30 minutes.
4. Wash in five changes of water and spread to dry
H quickly, but not in the sun. _
__ The "yellows" is a disease that infects the soil of a seed-
/0 bed or a field which has been used too often for cabbage. No
Lt treatment is effective, but varieties resistant to the disease should
he used. These are Iacope, Marion Market and Hollander, in
_t the order of their season.
_,, Celery sometimes is attacked by foliage—eating insects; the
I; control is poisoning as suggested for cabbage.
Q A serious disease of celery is leaf-spot, which causes
if; 4 spotting at first but, later, the yellowing and rotting of ..
;_ the entire plant. Its control is to spray with Bordeaux
_. mixture. Bordeaux may be home-mixed, but it is more conven-
,1 ient to use the ready-prepared form obtainable from all drug-
t_ gists and seedsmen. Full directions for use are given on the
6 container. If the gardener wishes, he may apply Bordeaux
mixture in dust form. The material to use is "Copper-lime

 16 Kentuc/ey Extension Circular N0. 243
Dust," obtainable from most seedsmen or druggists. Which-
ever form of Bordeaux is used, three to five applications should 7
be made, the first just after setting, and the others from ten~ .
day to two—week intervals. ,
GROUP 4. GREENS AND SALADS
A. The "Cool" Greens and Salads: A
` l Spacing {
Crop Variety Between Seed to 100 Ft.
_ Rows
”‘?j1`T`T";T—‘T ‘
Turnip   Seven Top I15 O1'30111S.Il/2 ounce
l Japanese [15 or 30 ins.l% ounce
Spinach lKing of Denmark 15 or 30 ins.[ 1 ounce
Kale |Siberian i15 or 30 ins.l % ounce
Rape |Dwarf Essex l15 or 30 ins.|% ounce
Endive 'Wliite Curled l15 or 30 ins.l(see p. 17)
` Grand Rapids {15 O1'3011lS.l 1 ounce
Lettuce {Hanson (heading) |15 or30ins.| 1 oz. (see p. 17) ’
|LWonderful (heading) |15 or30ins.l 1 oz, (see p. 17)
Chinese   'Wong Bok I15o1‘30ins.|(see p. 17)
Cabbage l Pe Tsai ;15 or30 ins.§(see p. 17)
l .
B. The “Warm" Greens and Salad? 1
Spinach   Prickly seeded summer\15 or 30 ins.i 1 ounce
lt New Zealand l15 or30 ins.|(see p. 17)
Kale lScotch Curled '15 or 30 lns.|£@ ounce
Swiss Chard lLucullus 15 or 30ins.j 2 ounces
Cos Lettuce lWhite Trianon i15OY30111S.l(S€E! p. 17)
_____l_...;  
The "co0l" greens are so called because they are suited tc
quite severe weather in the spring or in the fa]1. The spring
crop should be sown as early as the ground can be prepared,
and that for use in the fall or in the spring following, during ,
August and September.
Because the "warm" greens are not frost-hardy, they
should not be sown until after the ground is warm. The only
exception is Swiss chard, which can survive mild frosts, and S0
may be sown as early as April 15, even in the northern parts
of the state.

 lt 
The Vegetable Garden 17
zh- Fertiltztng. All the greens and salads need nitrogen in
ild addition to that furnished by the general fertilizing suggested
an- OH page 6. Side dressings with chicken manure or with nitrate
of soda, as suggested for Group 3 (p. 4), are worth while.
General Culture. When the seed for spinach, mustard
and kindred greens are sown at the rates just given the stand
" will be found to be satisfactory, but it is sometimes advisable
t, to thin the seedlings to one inch. For Swiss chard, New Zea-
__ land spinach, Chinese cabbage, endive and lettuce, special pro-
cedure should be followed. i
Swiss chard should be thinned to a stand of 10 inches or
one foot. Greens may be gathered thru the summer by taking
only the outer leaves, and leaving the central bud intact.
The seed for New Zealand spinach may be sown in the
same manner as for late cabbage (p. 14). The spacing for the
,7) . plants should be no closer than two feet, in rows three feet
(7, apart. New Zealand spinach is harvested by pinching oif the
clusters of leaves at the ends of the branches. The plants will
continue branching all summer, making the supply of greens
_ a continuous one.
_ Chinese cabbage and endive may be sown in continuous
drills and thinned to the proper stand, or the plants may be
grown in a bed and set, in the same manner as late cabbage "
(page 14). The final stand of either should be ten inches or
one foot. Chinese cabbage forms its head of itself, but endive
needs special treatment to blanch it. Two weeks before endive
— is to be harvested, the plants must be tied up loosely with soft
to twine, so as to shader the heart and to induce center growth.
ng This should not be done too far ahead of harvest or ro