xt7wst7dt14c https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7wst7dt14c/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1926 journals kaes_circulars_001_4_194 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 194 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 194 1926 2014 true xt7wst7dt14c section xt7wst7dt14c  
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N UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY I  
5 1;-.,
X, COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE I — 5%
__ Extension Division S ,  . T  
I I / I .  
T' THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director . • . I  
W . V  
Q, CIRCULAR NO. 194 er I  
I CLOTHING MANUAL •  
F Junior Agricultural CIubs x, z ,  
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, Lexington, Ky. ‘  
?· May, 1926 I  
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  Pllirlislwrl in conm·vtion with the a;·ri(·1¤lturnl ext nsion work c·m·riFd   Av  
$ mi DY cooperation of the College of :\§`I`I("llIIl1l'(’, lTnive1·sity of Ken- J  
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its Page
 l Sewing Equipment ..»..................... . ................V.......·.......·..-..~.---.·-------------·----- 3
 E Suggestions for Working ........................................i.................~..~......----.-· - ...- 4
gg  The Sewing Machine-
 l Use and Care of .,_,...._........,.....,...,..................................................... . ...... 5
 g Use of Attachments ................................................................................ 7
», ' Textiles ..._..4,.....,.,..,...............i............................................................. . ..........v.. 7
fi  Cloth ................................................ . .......................................i........................ 10
  stitches-
_,.lfE?i~ Plain __,_..,_,_,,.....,_,.........i.................. . ..................... . ..............,...............i.... 11
  ~ Decorative .......................................................................................i..   15
  Fastenings-
 g g Buttons and buttonholes .... . ........................................i......................... 17
  Snaps .................................................................,.............,........................ .. 21
  Hooks and Eyes .,............................,......................................................... 22
‘   Seams-
 § Plain ...,................,...i................................................................................. 22
r i  French .............4.................,.........4.......t.......................,.............................. 23
  Felled ........,r......r....................... . .........................i...........,......................,... 24 A
  Picoted .,.,.............A.........................,....................................................i..... 25
@3335, Plackets-
  Hemmed .................................................................................................... 25
 { Selvage ............,.,..................... . .....,.......................................................... 26 I"
  ‘ Continuous ......................................................................................i......... 27 SQ
  Special ........................................................................................................ 28 ,
  Hems- *1
   {i ‘ Finishing ........,....,i.........................................,........................................... 28 1
· *   ‘-§ Garment ...,..........................................................,..........,......i...........,....... 50
  Biases ............,.,,........,...,......,...............................,..................................,.,......... 31
“é{ ¥ Bindings ...,....,...i.i.i.....,,i.....,..,,.,_.4...,....__..,_,,__,...,.,.._...,_._,____.,..,.......i..........,.... 32
  · Mitering ..,........_..,__,,_...,.,,__,_,._,,,_,_._,__,_ , ..___,_,,__,,,,,,,,._.___,_,...,,_.,_...,...,......_,...... 32 2
  Gathering ......,. . ......,.............._..................,,...........,......,,.,..._............................ 33
  _ Clothing Requirements of a Wel1—Dressed Girl ..........................it.......... 33 3_
  Planning the `Wardrobe ___,______,____________________________ _ ___________________,_<_________,_________ 34
 gv; Color ...............i..........i.i.i....._.__.__.._._., ,, ,,._..._.i...._..,.,..._._,,,.i..............,..i......i....i. 37
  Making the Dress-
  Selection of the Pattern ............................,............................................... 39 4
  Usiii the Kimono Pattern ...............................................................ii... 46 ·
  . Alteration of Pattern ..............l............................................................... 40
  Preparation of Material Before Cutting .........<.......................i.......... 42 5
`¥*Q{Q; Cutting and Fitting .......,.......................................................................... 48 "
§}§ll Shaped Neck Facings ...................................,..,....................................,.. 51 .
  Collars ..,..................................l....l . ..............................,............................ 52
{-yl Bound Buttonholes and Set—ln Pockets ........,..,....,......................... 53
  Construction of Undergarments .,..................,.......,.............,ll.l...,.l.........l... 44
  Care of Clothing ......................A....................................................,.................. 56
  Removal ot Stains ......................................................................t............. 57
ill Patching .........................l.......................................................,.................. 60
  Daruing ........................»..........................................................,.................. 61
  Scoqe Cards-
  For Darning .......».,.................. . .............,.................................................. 63
hit: For Garments ...........................................,,......,__.......,.,,.....,,.,,,.....,........ 64
 
 
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4  
5 CIRCULAR NO. 194 `  
ii ( i  
E Clothing Manual . 
17 Junior Agricultural Clubs ° . ( (  p
21 By EDITH LAcv .  
22 .
23 . ri'?
gg D INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT , p V  
25 "A good workman is known by his tools." For the best ‘ `  
26 results in sewing it is necessary to have a few good tools which ,  
27 should be kept in good condition. The sewing basket should  
28 V include the following:  
gi 1. Sciss0rs—(of best quality and sharp) for cutting curves  
gi and short straight cuts. ‘  
gg 2. Shcars——(any scissors longer than 6 inches are called shears) p  
gg ·used for long cuts necessary in dressmaking. . V  
  3. Thrimblc—well-fitting. Celluloid or aluminum is good and  
37 inexpensive. Indentations deep enough to keep needle *  
from slipping.  
ii; 4. Tape measure—6O inches long, numbered on both sides  
40 from opposite ends; metal ends; sateen best material.  
ig 5. N eedles—not too coarse for material and just large enough  
51 . to carry thread. Package of 5 — 10 a good assortment.  
gg Kinds— V .  
gg Ground down (very Hne) for fine sewing ' y  
57 Betweens (short) for Hne sewing.  
00 Sharps (long) for general sewing.  
01 Milliners (longer than sharps) for hats and quick -  
Q3 V basting. ·  
64 ( Crewel (elongated eyes) for embroidery and darning.  
 . Calyx—eyed (self—threading eye). I  
. li
 
’ l   

 Fit .
  4 1(eizfueky E.rtcnsi`01z Circular N0. 194.
  6. Pin.s—sn1all, sharp, pointed pins best. Dressmakers pins
  known as silk pins; purchased in % pound box are good
.*5  and economical. _
  7. P-ine/u.s·hian—A‘ light weight pincushion stuffed with hair
  or wool is convenient,. · · h
gw  8. Emery bag—useful for brightening and sharpening needles. i
  9. Tlzrcad—made from cotton, linen-and silk. Cotton and
  linen threads are numbered, the larger numbers are the L
***43  finer threads. The sizes of silk thread are OOO, OO, 0, ,
  A. B. C. D. E. and E.E., the latter coarsest. The size of ]
  the thread to be used is determined by the thread of the
  material. For cotton materials Nos. 60, 70, and 80 are used 3
  on medium weight material; Nos. 100 and 150 for very
 Q fine materials. For silk materials; size 1~\—used for general ,
 Il stitching, size l)—used for heavier work I:‘Ill(l buttonholes. j
  10. Measuring gage—made from light weight cardboard.
  I ' r
  SUGGESTIONS FOR WORKING x
  ‘ 1. Sit erec·t in position with hips against back of chair
  and feet resting on the floor. I
  2. Never pin work to the table or to the knee. Hold
  i it up so that bending thc shoulders and dropping the head will I
  not be necessary.
 ,i 3. Have plenty of light, coming from the back and above, li
  over the left shoulder so no shadow will fall on the work. lf
  left-handed the light should come over the right shoulder. 0
  A 4. Never sit with the sun shining ou the work.
  5. l)o not bite the thread or wet it in the mouth. Biting il
  the thread may crack the enamel of the teeth, while wetting s0ilS _
  thread and may spread disease germs. I
  6. Use a short thread. It may be as long as the distance
  from linger tip to elbow. Basting threads may be longer.
  7. To prevent cotton thread from twisting, always FG- H
  member to knot the end cut from the spool and thread the H
  opposite end. I N
  8. A knot is used only in basting or when it can be hidden. 0
 ‘; 

 C10!/ring Manual, Junior Agricultzmzl Clubs. 5  
pms 9. Twisting of thread may be removed by smoothing the - i j  
good whole length of thread between thumb and forefinger,  
_ 10. Never use bent, rusty or blunt needles. An emery bag A `  
hall may be used for sharpening and polishing needles. A .  
11. Never leave a needle fastened in work. lt may leave  
(UGS- rust spots. . . , _  
and 12. Baste all work carefully, having work Hat on table or Vi ,  
the lapboard. Never pull edges; pat them into position, being very ·` V i  
', O, careful not to stretch the cut edges. Much poor work is due to l A Z 
.e of lack of basting. { ii 
the 13. Vlnhen removing basting, cut thread at intervals so that . ,  
used in pulling out the threads no injury to the garment will result. , ‘  
very 14. Own a good pair of shears. lt is a profitable invest~ A A W  
101*11 ment, for good cutting is a large factor in the making of a per- . . V  
~l€S· feet garment. ‘ {  
15. Have the wrong side of work neat and carefully i  
tinishcd. It is the wrong side of the garment that denotes the  
workmanship. '  
hair 16. Always wear a sewing apron or spread a clean cloth  
over lap whe11 sewing. i  
{Old 17. \Vash hands just before beginning to sew and during i  
will llli? S€\\`ll1g‘ if I`lCC€SS{l1‘y_ A _ `  
18. "Fit the thimble you wear and wear the thimble you A _  
)OV]ێ 19. If hands perspire dust them lightly with cornstarch ~  
or talcum powder.  
20. Have only those materials in the sewing box which ,  
ting are going to be used.  
Som 21- B€f01‘€ Starting any piece of work, be sure to read p  
thru all directions given. `  
mcg USE ANI) CARE OE 'l`lIE SEWING MAVHINE  
Study the instruction book which comes with the sewing  
  machine as the operating, oiling and use of the attachments are ‘  
all described in it. After learning how to properly thread the  
machine, practis stitching first on paper and then on cloth with-  
dm Ollt threading the needle. l’raetis turning a corner. Stop  
l I?
l.:.é£

  V 6 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 194.i
F5
  the machine when the needle is at its lowest point. Raise the
 l presser foot and turn the work, using the needle as a pivot.
  Lower presser foot and continue stitching. ·
 ; T hreacling: Place the ball of the left foot upon the upper
  left corner of the treadle and the heel of the right foot on the
  lower right corner. Treading in this position takes less effort
  than when feet are placed in any other position.
  - Winding the bobbin: The bobbin must be wound evenly
,;_`, to work properly in the machine. A bobbin should never be
  wound so full that it is tight in the shuttle.
‘  l `  T 0 remove work from the machine: Have the needle and
  the "tal ‘ Of
  _ lei
"~=$*  - · n Q as
  1. Even bastmg 3. D1·essmaker's basting ... "
, ‘·  ‘ 2. Uneven basting 4. Diagonal basting
wei. . e
§}?jsj ])IAGONAl1 B.xs1·1NG. _
 * ¢’· . . . . .
A ’! Uneven bastnio is made \V1th the lon dia onal stitches on
 1. za g gl to
 it the right side standing up from right to left and with the short QC
sc- : . . . . . . ·
  _ vertical stitches on the wrong side. Used in tailoring for bast- th
  ing linings to outer garments.
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ih 1. Running st1tch .». Combination stitch _ ·
  2. Back stitch ` wi
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Clothing Manual, Jum`0r AQI`i(7l(l{ll7'(I[ Clubs. lil ,  
Runnme. STITCH. ~ 1 Y  
l Begin at 1·ight hand side by taking two stitches in same A  
place, or by using a knot if it can be hidden. Run the needle _ p  
in and out in regular intervals as in even-basting. The smaller p hi `  
the stitches the firmer the seam is. This stitch is used for sew- i  
ing seams where there is no strain and for gathering. · · .  
  Bncx STITCH. · ·‘ I p V 
p._Begin work as for any permanent stitch. Take two short ‘ V  
running stitches, put the point of the needle into hole at the be- l  
p ginning of the second stitch, take a stitch twice the length of the Y ·  
. ° second stitch. Continue putting needle back each time to end . ‘ _,  
p · of the last stitch. Stitches on the wrong side are twice the - [ ·  Q 
3 length of those on the right side and overlap. Fasten the end c ' _ .  
` as before. Use inpplace of machine stitching.   i ,` l  
CoMmN.u·1oN S·rrrcH. 2
Take three running stitches and one back stitch. Repeat  
to end of seam. Begin and end as other stitches. Used for . _  
seams that must stand some strain. It is more quickly made then  
the back stitch. t  
` `  
. atl
  Plain hemming A  
eza-
_ Pinus HEMMING.  
H0ltl Work with the hem in a vertical position; place the l  
hem over the foretingcr and hold it down with the thumb. Draw  
T llié thread through at the edge of the hem, leaving one-half inch  
Q which can be concealed under the fold of the hem. Pointing  
\    

  ' 14 Ke#n!·uckg; Extension Ciircztlar N0. 194.
  the needle towards the left shoulder, make a slanting stitch by
  taking up a few threads just under the edge of the hem of the
sig  material and one o1· two threads at the fold of the hem. Take
 ; up as little cloth as possible with each stitch. The stitches are
  slanting on both tl1e right and wrong sides. The hemming stitch
  is used to hold seams, hems, fells and other folded edges in place,
  i GARMENT ]`IEMM1NG. ‘
 · *, The hemniing stitch used for garments is similar to the plain
  hemming but is less conspicuous. Start as for plain hemniing,
 Q taking up only one thread ofthe material, push theeneedle thru
 l the fold of the hem for about {Q inch before bringing it out at
  the fold for another stitch. Leave the thread very loose be-
  tween the stitches, so as to avoid apuekeir where each stitch is
  taken. Make a finishing knot in the edge of the fold every four
  . or five inches, so that if the hem is caught only a few inches
. .—$:;» . .
  l will rip.
 gg V OvEm1.xNmNe.
  Wo1·l< from right to left. Fasten thread by leaving a half
 it , inch of threadito be enclosed in stitches. Hold work parallel to
  body, the working edges in a straight line between thumb and
  t forefinger. Put the needle thru the cloth from opposite side
  pointing needle straight towa1·d the body. Take up in the stitch
  only one thread of each of the folds. To join thread, push thread
  ends down between the folds of cloth, hold them within the next
  few stitches. To end, overhand back about JA inch, insert needle
  in fold of cloth for 1 inch, bring out and clip oif close to cloth.
  This stitch is used to hold two folded or selvage edges to-
@*1 ether.
  OVERCASTING.
  Use same method as for overhanding except make stitches
  lg inch deep on cloth and ML inch apart. For coarse cloth a .
  4 deeper stitch may be necessary. This stitch is used to keep raw
  edges from raveling.
offs

 lolhing Manual, Junior Agricultural Clubs. 15 i ‘  
-  
’ i l ‘  
1 / 4 ` _ 
' Overcastiug . L 
_ DECORATIVE STITCHES.  g
I Ourmnn STITCH. W W . 
t Work exactly on the line of the design, hold cloth over the i .  
_ left foretinger. Begin with two small running stitches down, . rei'?
S then work back ove1· this with outline stitch. For outline stitch , _i , _  
[_ . work away from body keeping the thread down under the thumb l }  
and to the right of the needle. Put the needle thru the goods _ `  
5 about 3 /16 of an inch beyond the point where it went thru last  
and bring it out where the thread came thru. Continue in this  
manner.  
E This stitch is used for outlining shapes in embroidery and .  
) for line decoration.  
” -  
‘ ' lege?
l i  
E l  
·  
_ Blanket stitch ~ `  
BLANKET Srrron. l  
_ Work from left to right, holding the edge of the cloth to-  
° Ward you. To begin the stitch, take two or three running    
1 ' Stitches from the edge up into the cloth. Hold the thread under { tg
V the thumb of the left hand and insert the needle directly above  
. the last running stitch at right angles to the edge or line of  
ir

   16 Ifeizfzzcky E.r1‘cnsi¢m CI'}'Cl([(I)' N0. 19-1.
 =f; e
  decoration, bring the needle thru the loop. Insert the needle the
ly" . . .' .
 g desired distance away from the last stitch and proceed as be-
 f fore. When a new thread is necessary, end the old one. on the
  wrong side with two stitches and begin the new thread as be-
 ; fore, inserting the needle thru the loop of the last stitch. The
  blanket stitch has a single purl and the buttonhole stitch has a
  double purl.
Hail`;
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  »
  1. Feather stitch 2. Chain stitch 3. Outline stitch i
  4. Lazy Daisy stitch 5. Cross stitch I
 
argh.; Cimm Srircu. ‘
*#$¥1" . . . . . .
{fi. 'l‘he chain stitch is worked toward one. Bring the needle ‘
;$f_Zi; up at the end of the line, let the thread hang naturally or hold
  in place with the left thumb. Put the needle back where the A
  thread comes out and bring it out a short distancein advance and
»$ '
 
 
 
 
4.

 xi;.
  la
Clothing Maaztayl, Junior A.gri<:uZtuml Clubs. 17 I 1  
IE over the thread which thus is held down in the form of a loop. . " ·  
e` Each stitch is made in the same way, one end of it coming out i l  
lc thru the preceding stitch and the other ond held down by the l `  
B` next stitch. . , _  
16 Fnaritait STITCH. · » V  
ll ~ The feather stitch is a variation of the blanket stitch. The _ _  
feather stitches are made alternately, first on the right and then pl - .  
on the left. To make a feather stitch from right to left place A ·` T l  
the thread in a loop toward the left. Hold the thread under the. l l  
thumb. lnsert the needle letting the point pass over the thread h . l  
loop. Alternate! the direction of the stitches. This may be A _  
varied by making two or more stitches on each side of the line l V 1  
each time before working on the opposite side. _ V   F `  
Lazy D.-usr Srrron. _ — l  W 
Here each petal is formed with just two stitches. Bring the '~  
needle up at the inner end of a petal near the center of the  
‘ Hower. Hold the thread under the left thumb, put the needle mg
in exactly beside the hole it just came thru and bring it out at  
the tip of the petal over the thread, thus making one chain stitch. _ Qi 
Put the needle in again at the tip of petal, outside the chain i » 1  _
stitch, making a stitch over the thread, thus holding the chain 1. , ~  
stitch in place. _  
Cizoss S·rrroH. l A  
l Cross stitch is simply one stitch crossed over another, the ~  
two occupying a perfect square, crossing it diagonally from cor- Egg;
ner to