xt7z610vs271 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7z610vs271/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1942 journals kaes_circulars_003_384 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 384 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 384 1942 2014 true xt7z610vs271 section xt7z610vs271 O  
CLOTH I N G Pmyect For Ll-H Clubs la
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*   _ < yi Circular 384
 p gv  I
zgffgll V.  UNIVERSITY O1? KENTUCKY
, rms ¤¥   _
0M_w_4; j  (jollcgc of ;\gl`ICll1LU1`C and Home Economics
0M_g.éE     l li l . ·
I; Lxtcrrsum Scrvmc . . Thomas P. Cooper, 1)mn and Dzrceslor

 CLOTHING PROJECTS FOR 4-H GIRLS  
· The following nine projects of clothing work are available j
to 4-H Club girls: j
Sewing—A New Venture  `
School Frocks
Sleeping or Lounging Ensemble j
Play and \V0rk Clothes
Dress—Up Costume `
4-H Girl`s Formal Dress _
Semitailored Cottons and Rayons ;
Tailored Suit or Ensemble , 
Bringing Your Wardrobe Up-to-Date  I
Only one project should be undertaken within any one year  
of 4-H club work. A girl starting in 4»H work with no experience Q
in sewing should take the Hrst project ("Sewing-—A New Ven- ji
ture") the hrst year and "School Frocks" the second. After com- A
pleting these she may choose either one of the next two ("Sleep- f
ing or Lounging Ensemble" or "Play and \*Vork Clothes"). The ji
next three ("Dress-Up Costume," "4-H Girl’s Formal Dress" and V
"Semitailored Cottons and Rayons") may be taken in any order, >‘  I
depending on the girl’s wardrobe needs. A
The last two ("Tailored Suit or Ensemble" and "Bringing j t
Your WVardrobe Up-to—Date") may be taken in the order desired.   j
They are for girls above the average in sewing skill and planning   C
knowledge, and should be taken only when the other project J  [
requirements have been completed.  . C
Girls who have had some experience in sewing before €1l· i  
rolling in 4-H clothing projects may, upon approval of th€ Y {
leader, or agent, start with the second group, then follow the   [
order given above. . f·
j a
1 A
2; A
i in
_ st
Lexington, Kentucky   n
october, 1942  _ b

 SCHOOL F ROCKS I 5
.-  l
Clothing Project for 4-H Clubs ’
` By Enrtn Lxtcv, Doizornv THRELICELD, and AN1rA BURN/\Z\l Davis
i School will be much more fun if you wear clothes which you like
able . and which your friends admire. You can have more clothes and more
I becoming and individual garments if you make them. This project
; is to help you select and make such clothes.
. . t
S WHAT TO DO IN THIS PROJECT   `
 , Head H or study group  
l. Learn how to select a school costume; dress, undergarments,  
j shoes, other accessories.  
  2. Study methods of making a cotton dress and slip. Give atten- [
-v tion to the use of the pattern, cutting, and seam hnishes. lj
year j 3. Learn how to repair school clothing.   {
?llC€ ; Hand H or work group l
l/Cl"' l. Select patterns and materials for a cotton school dress and slip. ii
Z0¤l‘ ‘ 2. Make dress and slip. {
eep- " 3. Repair own clothing for at least one month. I
The   4. Keep record of work. i
  l SELECTING A SCHOOL COSTUME   i
`d€1’ .»  Material   i
Because every girl is ditlerent from other girls and wants the most
gills ¤ j€C[  ._ lllaf 21l`e attractive and require the minimum of care. Simple cotton {
 : dresses HICCK these requirements. Percales, seersuckers, ginghams or j j
en- i some of the feed sacks are suitable materials, as they launder beauti- l i
the ll'llY Hliil are comfortable. Cotton materials come in many attrac—
the  · llV€ €l€Signs and a variety of colors. Heavier feed sacks may be US€Cl
for dresses and lighter weight ones for slips. YVhite ones may be used
 V as they are for both dresses and slips or may be dyed for dresses.
 2 Many of the printed ones are lovely in texture, color, and design,
 `zj Sml if printing is removed, rnake attractive dresses. To TCUIOVG })1`iUl·
j mg, rip the sack apart, soak in cold water, wash in warm water with
 { strong soap. lf necessary, soak in warm water with soap and kerosene;
n  {lash OUKZ and boil in gtrgng 5u(l5_ Club girls Wl]O l1Z1V€ 53CkS will
A ie smart and thrifty to use them in the clothing project.
_ 3

 4 EX'Il·.NSl()N Cinctiraiz No. 38·l  i
Color  V
To choose a becoming color one must know a little about color. i
There are three primary or basic colors. From these three all others .
are 1nade. The primary colors are red, yellow, blue. Black, white ·
S and gray are not colors but neutrals. Colors can be classed as “co0l" i
- colors and “warn1" colors. Those which look like flame, heat or sun-  ·
shine are called warm colors because they give the impression ol .
heat. Red, orange and yellow are warm colors. Those colors which `
give the impression of clouds, water and grass are "cool" colors. They  Q
are blue, green, blue green and blue purple. X/Vhat color does your
[ace turn when you get very warm? \*Vhat color are your lips when V
you are shivering with cold? Get the {eel of colors and yo11 will be- 1 I
gin to understand them.
Study your own personal coloring, hair, eyes, and complexion, to  `
determine whether you are in the "warm," "cool," or "intermediate" g
group. Usually warm colors look best on people who have dark hair "
and skin and brown eyes. Cool colors are more becoming to people  ‘
who have light hair, lair complexion and blue eyes. X/Vheu selecting  
a colored fabric hold it against the skin ol the lace to see what it I
does to the color ol the hair, the eyes and the complexion.  
Bright colors and white make any ligure appear larger. Because  »
purple, yellow, and yellow-green intensify tl1e yellow in the skin.  _
people with sallow complexions should avoid them. Soft, subdued  ·
colors with accents of bright color may be chosen by girls who are S
quiet and shy; bright colors by girls who are vivacious.  ’
Design =
There is such a variety of designs that every girl may choose one  I
becoming to her. Small all—over designs give the ellect, at a distance, ·` 
ol a solid color. Flowered designs look best when made up into soh  ·
lines while the geometric designs are best suited to more tailored
lines. Girls who have not had n1ucl1 sewing experience should avoitl T
stripes or plaids as they require skill in matching the designs.  `
Pattern _
Choose a pattern which emphasizes the good points ol your ligurr. I _
minimizes the bad points, and is appropriate lor the material I0 l’“ g I
used. Heavy materials require more tailored patterns than the ligllltl V t
weight materials. Good commercial patterns are so inexpensi\'€ lllill , I
it is economy lor the club girl to use them. It takes a skilled person I I
to cut a well-fitting garment without a pattern. Check your lllC2lSlIl`C‘  5 I
ments with those on the pattern and buy one as near yOUl` Sllc n`   l
possible. ll any alterations are needed, make them belore cuttills I

 Scuoor. Faocxs 5 I l
l
Slip  
color. Tl1e slip is a foundation [or the dress and should be similar in I
uthcrs line and in weight. Medium weight cotton, as long cloth, nainsook,
white , and non—cling is satisfactory, or sacks may be used. \~Vhite or very
'c00l" light tints should be used as these launder more satisfactorily and
r Sun- ’ look well under any color of dress. Tl1e two—piece slip cut on the
on ol · straight of tl1e goods meets the needs of Il1OS[ girls. The slip which is
which _ fitted in witl1 darts at the waistline and bust gives a smooth, slender y
They E appearance. A shaped neckline coming to points where the straps i ls ,
y0U1` are attached fits and looks right on most figures. r
when _  
ul bC_ - Accessories 1
 , Shoes for school wear should be comfortable, durable, and easily  
. . l
cared lor. Brown, black, or blue, low—heeled leather oxlords are i
1 1
an, to . . .
1. ms ‘ practical and will look well with almost any school dress. Anklets, or l l
;12 ‘  ’ . . ’ , T
hail, socks, are rnost practical lor school wear. They should be selected i I
`mk f` in colors to ll[ll`lllOl]llC with the  
I dress. Searls made lrom the same     I
ecllllg . . .     · .,   1
I ll il g 1l1ZllCl`12ll as tl1e dress, simple cro-    
(  . tiheted berets or plain lelts are ap-       pi » 
msc  . propriate hats. Everything that is     `     ‘s 1
IC . ‘ . , .-        .¢.'> » §i;¥—€’l“   .
[kin · worn w1tl1 any one costume 15 an   is     l `
s' · . . . . . .   .»»—` 1 ‘
j Ull[)Ol`l2lHL part of rt. Therelore, $,1.   ‘ ii
>dl1€Cl` >l;1ci11<>· 11I` aatteru on the     O   ’ V1
_ o I   ,. . ,.
_ Q Ul2llCI`Iitl. l·`<>]h>w these (li1‘ct`Ii0llS  V 1 1
¤‘tIl`<`· ‘ .. . ,· ·   [ i
lh I . <·iHlUlly. Pm the pattern IO the   —
t0 W ` -   , · ·   P   
· ll I I lll;>E;  § \
d skirt ` ...A......., .. *‘‘‘`‘‘‘‘‘` ` ``'````“‘"“``` “
t _ N
t. .
ype of t
radon = French seam Stitched fell seam {
Y    
Mable How to set in sleeves i
, Pink Set in sleeves by sewing up sleeve seam, slip top sleeve edge through l
tn for armhole of the dress, holding the inside toward you. Match notches,    
’ , . . . . t ~
 , in at these omts, then Jin at the underarm seam. Next in at (
. P _ l _ P _ [ ,
le [WO Shoulder seam. Distribute fullness evenly between these potnts, p1n— V
T nin as ou o, nlacinv ins at ri ht an les to the armse re. Baste in t
Ogg [0 g l RD P g g l `
· place, try on, stitch. Two rows of stitching % to yi inch apart make  
a Hat, substantial finish for cotton dresses. I
1   4 * % * .  . . .————— — —;———·.-  . . E t r
V =—— ——~·—  _-— ————" — —_; .  “ .
l   Q  {/{ t 0 ~ ·   i t
,   tt ` »» 1`~ i  ,  4;** MJ " t
gs { , »   ..T.  »4\ . .
rr     Q ,\  `   P `  . tt
» 1,.  *    -  ..,l» .       t “
Wig 1 §==~* .· **—>¢i§·t-t:; > ’ i § €’$§'     . Q
 " .   § i ii }.    ·; ’‘‘‘ 5 ·> §
bed 2t~ t           l
Ol` the l  sg "   »  
-, turtt ;  ti    ‘   gg;  ml-
ma   — §~
_d [O], t Pinning and basting of sleeves in armseye
show  g M _
C mw  { étkmg bound neck placket
;[ thc  ` D0 not cut opening. Mark line for opening with a colored thread.
lt sidt  ` CUP a binding {Or placket two inches wide and as long as desired, plus
1 until   gn Inch- Fold the binding lengthwise through the center and Cr€21S€·
outer Sttste thrs crease tothe blouse along the colored thread marking.
 i titch one—fourth inch from this line on each side and across the bot-

 8 Extension CIRCULAR N0. 384 J
torn. Cut through center line and diagonally out to each corner.  ·
Turn binding piece to wrong side. Baste around opening on right  
side to form a binding, not turning seam edges back. Turn under
r ‘ ,
M M   "  
Bound neck placket  Q
raw edge of binding on wrong side and hem to machine stitching. `
Stitch across the end of the binding on wrong side, where it joins J
the garment, but do not stitch through blouse.  {
Attaching collar S
To join collar to dress match notches and pin in place. Cnt il  
narrow bias strip [or covering the raw edge of the collar. Baste one Z
edge of the collar and the bias strip to the dress. Stitch and press. {
Turn edge of bias strip under, baste down to dress, and hem in plate   I
by hand. * (
” l
V_v_     ___A    
`I ZIV;.`iN_€_.E,-;r·/gs;ii ~ ···· ' `  `. _   _---- p S
  ·eer°    .   _     ‘
    .. A \
  / `%- · I';
  V __ ·_j     ..._.... gm
join of collar  

 SCHOOL FROCKS 9 I  
i l
corner. p Applying neck facing r
.1 ri ht — Cut neck facin usin the neck of the blouse for sha in the in- i
S S S P S
under side edge of the lacing. Allow for shoulder seams. Stitch shoulder
seams to ether. Place facin ri ht side down to the inside of the
. S S S
`_ neck edge, baste and stitch. Clip seam allowance and turn facing to
 
· I ` \   U--- .i »il.` 1-  
· ¤ [J,  l
  k \   r
r  c r  ’ t 1
.  . ._.— \./ ·/r ~ l .
tclnng.  _ \ { /  l `
t joins    ’ r l
S ` ` l
» l
Cut il 4 M0,
te one  i .
· Fitting facing of dress  
press.   .
llllm V Fight side of garment, basting along neck edge. Turn under lower l , ‘
 · edge, press, baste and stitch down.
  Hemming the dress .
 { Put the dress on and stand straight while someone with a yard-  
= stick measures the correct length of the skirt. Mark length with a   p
VL row ot` pins as the measuring is done. Take dress oft, turn hem on i
i i l
 i     »``> i.   ->V-_ ¢ _v_· ·
Dress hem

 10 Exrrzusiou Cmcuum No. 384
line of pins, and baste on bottom edge of hem. Then, using a paste
board gage for depth of hem, trim off extra material at the top of _
hem. Turn top edge of hem down once, and stitch by machine along
_ the edge. Pin hem in place, baste, and hem by hand with slipstitch.  `
Put in any fullness in small darts or gather it. l
Making the fastenings  .
Cutting and working button/10les.—Buttons and buttonholes are
decorations as well as fastenings. Buttonholes should be well made I
and their size should be in relation to the space on which they are I
used.  
1. The size of the buttonhole is determined by the size and thick A
ness of the button. It is usually cut about l/16 of an inch  
longer than the diameter of the button.  
2. Determine the spacing between the buttonholes and the dis- s
tance from each edge of hem or band. Mark position of thc `
buttonhole on the garment with a pin or basting.
. z ..,. . ~:tt:.<=.»=¥¤  ·=.2;•»¤ i:‘ * $*1 . ‘
s;l»·.s.`     -i.;.l {Y * t
fj Q‘f?=§€="i` - ,   ll
_;;gG · t';,t2‘¤’g` $¤’ · ;=‘;.K ‘i . ll .
  V, 3:   /  t
fr PP . .. ·· , / `
raw ,_ .
"  I   } . . l .”}‘    '
    ppl,   _°    
.         ``·-   Buaonhoie stitch
  ,_.  >    .
= .;a a    sim:-·   ¥
j`{.,Q,Q¤  [FC   1;_¥.`·  
  ‘ '‘‘· · ‘¤"*;2··"£·t; · t . ":"f;
Steps in making a buttonhole  ii

 Scnoor. Fnocxs 11  
a paste 1   Cut buttonhole along a warp or woof thread as it is much  
top of harder to work on a bias.
e along 4. To strand or outline a buttonhole, stretch the slit across the
Psmch ‘ finger perpendicular to the length of the finger. Always keep
the slit in this position throughout the process. Insert the
needle above the end of the cut which is farthest from the
edge of the garment leaving the end of the thread about %
>l€S HN? inch from the slit. Bring the needle out at lower edge of but-
1 made tonhole, and make a second stitch from these two points. The 1 l. A
hey are width of this stitch determines the width of the finished button-  
hole.
i thick 5. Overcast edges just inside of the stranding thread to prevent  
m inch . raveling. (Buttonholes are always made through two thick- 1
i nesses of material.) l
;he dis- l 6. For buttonhole stitch see illustration. The buttonhole stitch 1
Of [hq Should bf! thé same depth as the stranding. Slant buttonholing 1 1
i where over-casting stops. 1 V
  Sewing on I1uttons.—Sew buttons on with a heavy single thread. l
After taking Hrst stitch through the eye of the button, insert a pin 1/
and continue sewing over the pin until the button is secure. Bring r
  needle out under button, remove pin and wind thread around the
stitches that hold the button, thus forming a shank. Take thread to
’ wrong side ol` material and fasten. See illustration. I l
’ I)'}`U!)(I”I`Z.7lg (,`CL7")`l.€’}`.S` for bclts.—Use small strips of the dress ma— il
_ terial. Stitch strips together on the wrong side and turn. Sew these 1
. belt loops to {rock with small stitches. Chain stitch or buttonholed i 1
-\  _ carriers may be made. l i
\j  i . l =
\/ 1
. @w
· 1 l 2. {5
V attnlénto I ··lwu uuw·
‘ 4
 i L Two-eye button showing stitches taken over pin
2. Four-eye button showing stitches taken over pin
* 3. Crowsfoot method of decoration
 ‘ 4. Side view showing shank

 12 » Exriznsion Cmcumm N0. 384
Finishing neck of slip T
Cut a shaped facing using the slip pattern. This facing may be
turned either to the right or the wrong side. If turned to the right t
side put it down with a decorative stitch, or a long machine stitch. l
and decorate it with embroidery thread woven over the stitches. ll  -
` turned to the wrong side hem down by hand. A French hem is es
pecially good for neck lines on slips. lt is a narrow edge Hnish resem- _
blin :1 French seam on the wrong side of the material and showinrr V
g D ’ D
no stitches on the right side. ‘
’ .....   .,   *
  ———#   ·~-— .  ....;.-.¤     as . - ..   ‘
     U  ·-   —,_ _,_’ 3 _. _____   ¤». {gs: ·:_.. V
x · sis; E   ».‘i     .‘t -» ~~; ’   mx  we 
 i T ‘ . ;  1 th
 i V — . 1  V in
1 . {  l · (V
 j ,   si F ~ . ,  pv  3 if
  "*-~ . » Mm. · f py
Fitted facing for slips ’ fu
' to
K , al
’ ,`~*‘\y   co
 .`   ,;,/—;.- »;-7 T. Y?.   - •"••  I
  p     V i  _ •_•.• D
>a7‘;¤~§%&"`”;`*p   { ’·'
W ""`*‘ ; z ¢ii `  °’ `°' "`  r-A Ti
    ;"= =  
‘ __l;¢. ·? .».-y . y ..;_ *"»¤—` j
French hem Decorative stitch '
REPAIR OF CLOTHING =
Putting on hemmed or set-on patch
This patch is used for repairing undergarments or practiC1l}O*“' `
side garments because it is strong and stands repeated launderui?
USLl21Hy it is SLIUZITC O1` Oblong in shape, Cut away the i1‘1`egL1lill`“'*“'li
art around the hole leavin >· it sc uare or oblong. The natch sh0ul<
P l ¤ Icp t
be of th€ SZ1m€ m21t€r1al as the garment. If the garment 1S fildfidi UL .

 A Scnooc Fxtocxs 13 1
  IIIIII I----! 1
·“>' bt   r-as  ""°°$$”'””
. 1 I r -
tight   Init!-E. Ill :-- ull.
st1tc1, ` [ 4 `
es. ll __ L   ·’
is     I"IIIIII IIIIIIIWW
  ‘‘‘   i A I--L I--{
(>`` 1 111   I ::5- II|In¤¤nII|I 1 1
IIIIHH Iiiiii  
. . ·  
A- R|c1|qTS,dc 8-1/\IYOr\qS|d€. 1
— Set-on patch {
1 1
—` Jatch should be was11ed u11til it is tl1e $211116 color as the ·arn1ent. ll 1.
· . . g 1
i there IS (lCS1g11 in tl1e g2l1`l]]€I'l[, as plllld or strnpes, tl1e design should 1 1
match. Cut tl1e patch carefully, following tl1e thread o1` tl1e material, l
“ 1 M inch lar er on all sides tl1a11 the hole, which n1ea11s that tl1e >atcl1 1
I _ S I
IS 1% inch W1(1€1` and 1011 er than tl1e hole. La tl1e ri l1t side ol the 1
. M S Y S
1, · patch to tl1e wron<>· side o[ tl1e ¤·arn1ent. See t11at all lll2l1"`ll1S are ex- t
. tu o S
attly even; tl1e11 pi11 Hll(1 haste carefully i11to position. 1
S Turn garment to right side, cut with diagonal slashes at all [our I
 f corners tg i11ch deep. Turn edges of garment 111aterial under % inch p 1
 ; all around hole; baste, tl1en 11em to patch; take care to make square   1
. corners. Turn to wrong side. Turn under edge of the patch % to y y
1 ,   111cl1 all way around; baste and l1e111 to garment with hne stitches.   1
1 Daming a stocking  
@7 Darning is replaci11g worn or tor11 threads witl1 a weavi11g stitch.   1
um  ; Tears in clotl1 n1ay be darned as well as holes i11 stockings a11d otl1er  
l 1 I
. /\
’ / t /
/
S ,417 f]_’W?`1 *"
` |* ·1 
(I | l' I 1\|\|\  
t ”¤1»1'1'| —'————' '  
i < -¢]·iT;L‘T1·1—|T| > U  ill
jul Olll'  S    
. __ /
de1~111§· • 1  
ll`\\'0l`l1 .  
ut ‘ T.,
$110 ll . l-_
at Mr V
i Stocking darning

 14 Exrrausiow Ciizcumiz N0. 384 `
knitted fabrics. When darning a stocking use the darning cotton that
matches the thread of the stocking in both size and color. Use a long-
eyed needle. Place darner inside stocking; trim away the ragged i F]
edges around the hole and encircle it with a row of fine stitches; baste  ‘
an outline. Darn lengthwise with the ribs of stocking first, beginning _ '
at lower righthand corner. Use short running stitches, turning at _' [
the edge of the basted outline. Leave about % inch of the thread p {
in a loop at turn to allow for shrinking. Wlien the hole is reached (
catch into the edge on the other side; continue the running stitches ' -
to the line. Repeat until all the space has been Hlled in. Turn and ·
fill in woof threads the same way, "over one thread, under the next." V _
Repeat, taking up alternate threads until darn is Hnished. Remove E E
basting thread. Wlien a thin spot shows in the foot of a stocking zi _
few rows of darning will often reinforce the spot so that the hole i
does not appear.
· Sl
L
- H
‘ O
p;
 p D.

 l Scnooc Fnocks 15 (
1 [hill 4-H RECORD- SCHOOL FROCKS  
l ¤— A
Gull [ The record of __ I
Z'gg€( I (ZIBIIIC) (age)
basic ` Kentucky
Hlllllg . (county) (town) '
Hg Hi c Describe salvaged materials used in your costume or other economy
ih"“`”d · features.
cached
;itches V   . (
n and V ll -
, »»   P
new g ARTICLES COST (money spent) l
emoyc · Dy€SS_ (
  l (
· Slip-
    yds. at __ per yd. __  l
( Other items I .
i   l
__   i s »
_ Total l
_ L1st repair of School Cl0thes— .
~ Garments patched Sox darned (prs.) .
(number) (number) I  
Buttons Sewed on Other 
` (number) (describe)
- Have you made garments other than those required in this project?
 . If so, describe -.. _..
 
‘ On the back of this page write a brief story about your work to accom-
pany this record.
 ( Date: l94__. Signed:__ _ ____;#
’ (Club member)
Approved: 
` (Project leader)
I Approved: _______;___-
 ; (County extension [coder)

 Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics: College of Agriculture `Q
and Home Economics, University of Kentucky, and the United States Department of Agri- 4
culture, cooperating. Tuoivms P. Coopmz, Director. Issued in furtherance of the Acts ui A
May 8 and June 30, 1914. g `
A
3
 
l5l\{~10‘;C